Gas Tank

[tyronewildman]

Changed the plugs at 18k (they looked good to me) for the iridiums. 3rd time to raise the tank &, like I continue to read, the front screws are hard to start cause the tank seems too far back. Soo this time, while the tank was up, I loosened the front tank mount & slid it as forward as I could & then tightened the mount screws under the tank. I then loosened the 4 rear mount screws and was easily able to start the front tank screws into the frame. I could see about 3/4 of the screw holes without having to push the tank forward. Tightened all 6 screws up & guess what, the 2 push pin holes in the side plates lined up exactly. I guess there was enough slop in both mounting plates to make everything line up easily if the plates are pushed toward each end (front towards the front & back towards the back of the bike) before tightening each plates screws. Try it, you'll like it. Later,,, De

 

[twowheelnut]

Do like I do: Drop the tank hit hit the back of the tank, low, with my palm. One good shot does the trick.

 

[Randy]

Or, do it the more conventional way as I do...lift the front of the tank up to get the screws started and get about 3-4 turns on each one. Once started, let the tank down and they go right in.

 

[prshguy]

Had this exact problem last night after I sync'd the TBs, and for the life of me I couldn't figure out what was wrong. It turns out that it was not the front or rear brackets that needed loosening but just the rear pivot bolt. It is tight at the pivot and so lifting the tank without first loosening it causes the rear rubber element to bind rear-ward when the tank is lowered, effectivley moving the tank back about 1/2 inch. As soon as I loosend the nut on the end of the long bolt that goes thru the bracket, all was right with the world again and the front holes lined up perfectly, no other adjustments needed.

If you didn't loosen this up but instead moved your front and rear assemblies you might still be binding or twisting the rubber insulator on the pivot so I would suggest checking it.

 

[FJRocha]

I always loosen the single pivot bolt at the rear of the tank, then I remove the two screws at the front of the tank. When re-assembling, I just reverse the process and never ever had any problems with the alignment.

 

[madmike2]

+1. IIRC, this is exactly the method described in the FJR Tech articles....loosen the rear pivot bolt.

Uhm, TWN, watch'a gunna dew whin yew git that neato-keeno palm-sized dent in the backa yer tank? Ah, yup, ah jist give'er a good "whomp" en thet sucker slides jist fer enuff forward them screws 'ill line right up, yessir. Thet's the weigh it orta git dun when we are fixin' 'em under the shade tree..

 

[yamahlr]

I was hittin the back of the tank w/ my forehead, but the hand thing sounds like the way to go now that I think about it.

 

[madmike2]

I suh-pose yew kud give yer tank a han' job. The away if'n yew whomp it tew hard en cause a darn ol' big dent, yew kud jist tell yer frens thet yew were mekkin' room fer yer "manhood", 'cuz it takez a reel man to ryde wunna these hyar FJRs.

 

[brazos parker]

Uh...you guys are talking abt how to lower the tank. I raised my tank today (for the first time) to run some wiring for a Blue Sea fuse block install. I loosened the pinch bolt and, then, the 2 bolts at the front of the tank. I had my rope ready to tie the tank up. As I raised the tank, I heard a small "crack." Uh-oh...THAT didn't sound good. I guess I should have taken out the little black specialty connectors on the on the fuel tank side panels BEFORE raising the tank. So, I learned that the proper procedure for raising the tank would be...

1. Loosen the pinch bolt.

2. Remove the 2 front bolts.

3. Remove the 2 black specialty connectors.

4. Raise the tank.

5. Tie the tank up.

My bad! Hope I can help some other mechanically challenged person avoid hearing the little "crack" that I did.

But, on the other hand, I removed D & C panels w/ no problem.

 

[Randy]

Brazos - I used bungee cords to hold it back. Hooked one end of the bungee to the holes in the front of the tank and the other end to the subframe cross brace. For me, worked better than tying/untying.

Oh, and the offer still stands - if you get in a bind, call me. Let me know if you need me to resend my #.

 

[brazos parker]

Randy, thanx again. I saved the PM w/ your cell phone number and will call if I get to a point where I have questions. So far, it's slow going but I'm taking my time and am trying to over compensate for my lack of electrical knowledge...and motorcycle knowledge.

I'm running the power and ground for the Blue Sea and for the Powerlet up the right side of the bike so my install is slightly different from yours. I'm using heat resistant sheathing that I got from J. C. Whitney.

I'll take some pics when I get finished and send them to you.

I appreciate the pics you sent and have looked at them several times today.

I think we should write an install procedure for FJRTech.com.

I'm not sure I could have tackled this w/out all the help I've gotten from you and others on this board. The FJR Forum is kewl. :clap:

 

[Randy]

I think we should write an install procedure for FJRTech.com.

I was a half a cooler of Amstel Light's deep, so, I don't remember any of it

j/k - sounds like a plan. i'll start drafting something up.

 

[markjenn]

In one of WC's writeups, he shows how to use a piece of wood to pry the tank forward at the pivot point to get the front bolts aligned. That's what I always did, but never knew that binding at the pivot was the issue. I'll loosen the pivot bolt from now on. Thanks,

- Mark

 

[madmike2]

As I raised the tank, I heard a small "crack." Uh-oh...THAT didn't sound good. I guess I should have taken out the little black specialty connectors on the on the fuel tank side panels BEFORE raising the tank.

Uhmmmm, yup! Then I went and re-read the article in FJR Tech, taking note that it mentioned removing said "clips".

I'm glad I had my garage door closed because I probably looked a little silly crawling around on the floor with a flashlight looking for the connectors (which I found!).

 

[twowheelnut]

As I raised the tank, I heard a small "crack."  Uh-oh...THAT didn't sound good.  I guess I should have taken out the little black specialty connectors on the on the fuel tank side panels BEFORE raising the tank.

Uhmmmm, yup! Then I went and re-read the article in FJR Tech, taking note that it mentioned removing said "clips".

I'm glad I had my garage door closed because I probably looked a little silly crawling around on the floor with a flashlight looking for the connectors (which I found!).

Yeah, mine always fly under the storage rack and hide amongst the Daddy Long Legs and Black Widows... I always send the missus in after 'em cuz she has smaller hands! :haha: