Gear Clanking on 08 Something to live with or learn to ride around it!

[Rayzor61]

I"m a new member that recently bought an 08 Black. I've heard about the hard clanking noises with gear changes that I've read about in magazines and in this forum. I am certainly no expert on the FJR as I am just starting to get a feel for it at slightly over 500 miles. One thing I can tell everyone conserned about the gear clanking is that it is a characteristic of the machine that we will have to live with.

I've had so many bikes and have learned that "sometimes you win and sometimes you don't" when it comes to butter-like smooth shifting. Every different bike has it's quirks and this one has the "hard shifting" and "heat displacement" problem. The over-all package makes up for these quirks. Consider them acceptable minor inconveniences. Also, the fact that it is shaft driven doesn't help either. I believe Kawasaki "Conquerd" that problem with their 08 Concorse with some kind of new shaft design.

Living with the problems:

The only way to advoid this noise is to preload the shifter with your foot before shifting. A way to do this without having to constantly put upward pressure on the shifter is to lower the shifter on the spline. This way, at a regular riding position, the shifter is actually sitting on your boot. There will be no reach and throw when you shift which helps to alieviate the clank sound.

The only way to better displace the heat is a freer flowing exhaust, period. My last bike pipes reached above 300 degrees before I replaced the cans which lowerd the temp to about 110. Holeshot's got my order!

Done, problems solved. Much smoother shifting and less heat.

Ray

 

[FJRay]

It is always nice to have a new expert on the forum to help us sort out what has been beat to death in the past.

 

[Rayzor61]

Your avitar comment says it all......LOL

Sorry, no time to read every post.............and unwilling to do a search before I comment.

 

[Knifemaker]

......and unwilling to do a search before I comment.

Then prepare to be pistol whipped everytime you post something everyone here already knows...

And I would avoid posting at all on Friday if I were you......

FNG says it all too ace........

KM

 

[bramfrank]

Gee. My '06 shifts smoothly without preloading and it certainly isn't very hot, though it does get *warm* in stop and go traffic.

Then again, I didn't buy an FJR to ride in stop and go traffic.

So rather than spending ~$650 to resolve the issue I simply avoid stop and go traffic as much as possble.

 

[madmike2]

You're right about one thing....every bike has its quirks (and every human has their foibles).

To relieve the heat from the exhaust, I assume you are replacing the entire system to bypass the heat held in the catalytic converter box.

The transmission will smooth out after 5,000-8,000 miles.

 

[Rayzor61]

It is always nice to have a new expert on the forum to help us sort out what has been beat to death in the past.

Perhaps the next time I decide to post, rather than share my experiences and/or opinion, I'll think of a new topic to discuss like the differences in tensil strength between the alloy used in your skull plate vs. that used in the manufacture of the FJR's wheels. I'm sure that topic has never been explored and the result would be that your skull plate is stronger. Either way it seems it will not be relavent to the purpose of this forum.

 

[Rayzor61]

You're right about one thing....every bike has its quirks (and every human has their foibles).
To relieve the heat from the exhaust, I assume you are replacing the entire system to bypass the heat held in the catalytic converter box.

The transmission will smooth out after 5,000-8,000 miles.

Mike,

I was told by Dale Walker the the cats are in the header (and the pipes) and that opening up the pipes will relieve a lot (not all) of engine heat. The headers can be added at another time I guess. Is this true??

 

[Rayzor61]

Gee. My '06 shifts smoothly without preloading and it certainly isn't very hot, though it does get *warm* in stop and go traffic.
Then again, I didn't buy an FJR to ride in stop and go traffic.

So rather than spending ~$650 to resolve the issue I simply avoid stop and go traffic as much as possble.

Havn't had that much time in the sattle yet; but today I went for a country ride ( 2 up) at 80 degrees outside and at every stop or slow turn I could feel the engine heat on my legs and the gauge was at middle or plus 1 click (arrow). When I first rode it home two weeks ago, the temp gauge went 2 clicks above middle in 60 degree weather on county roads (35 to 45 mph) (no traffic).

What is normal engine temp (in arrows per the temp gauge)

 

[Rayzor61]

FNG says it all too ace........

Whats FNG????

 

[HuskyRider]

FNG= squid without ATGATT

(someone like me with less than 100 posts..F**kn' new guy)

 

[ShawnKing]

I'll think of a new topic to discuss like the differences in tensil strength between the alloy used in your skull plate vs. that used in the manufacture of the FJR's wheels.

Nice. Way to make friends right from the get go...

 

[DonRed7]

You heard about the "hard clanking noises"...and you still bought one? Heat on an 06-08 ??? you gotta' be kidding.

Just ride the FN thing,... then find something to bitch about.

Ooops,..did i say that out loud.

Me thinks something is rotten in denmark

-Don

 

[big ears]

With 4600 miles on my 08 the shifting is smooth and there is no heat to think about.

 

[TechJunkie]

I"m a new member that recently bought an 08 Black. I've heard about the hard clanking noises with gear changes that I've read about in magazines and in this forum. I am certainly no expert on the FJR as I am just starting to get a feel for it at slightly over 500 miles. One thing I can tell everyone conserned about the gear clanking is that it is a characteristic of the machine that we will have to live with.
I've had so many bikes and have learned that "sometimes you win and sometimes you don't" when it comes to butter-like smooth shifting. Every different bike has it's quirks and this one has the "hard shifting" and "heat displacement" problem. The over-all package makes up for these quirks. Consider them acceptable minor inconveniences. Also, the fact that it is shaft driven doesn't help either. I believe Kawasaki "Conquerd" that problem with their 08 Concorse with some kind of new shaft design.

Living with the problems:

The only way to advoid this noise is to preload the shifter with your foot before shifting. A way to do this without having to constantly put upward pressure on the shifter is to lower the shifter on the spline. This way, at a regular riding position, the shifter is actually sitting on your boot. There will be no reach and throw when you shift which helps to alieviate the clank sound.

The only way to better displace the heat is a freer flowing exhaust, period. My last bike pipes reached above 300 degrees before I replaced the cans which lowerd the temp to about 110. Holeshot's got my order!

Done, problems solved. Much smoother shifting and less heat.

Ray

My original complaint was prior to my 600 mile break in. I have had my 08 one month and now have 1600 miles on the OD and I can say the shifting is changing. I still have some loud sifts in 1st and 2nd but now it is hit and miss and occurs across all gears but not as pronounced as it once was. I believe others may know what they are talking about when they say it will smooth out with miles. If not that is what my warranty is for, factory or extended.

As to heat you have me scratching my head here. My 08 is anything but hot. I don't care about the temp gage having five or seven bars. Whatever, that is why I have a radiator fan and I am certain it is within design tolerances. What I care about is leg heat and even when it has been 88 degrees I have not noticed anything to write home about.

I guess if a little buzzing in my throttle hand and a few clunks when shifting is all I have to complain about I feel like I am doing good! Certainly loving the Feejer.

 

[bramfrank]

Gee. My '06 shifts smoothly without preloading and it certainly isn't very hot, though it does get *warm* in stop and go traffic.
Then again, I didn't buy an FJR to ride in stop and go traffic.

So rather than spending ~$650 to resolve the issue I simply avoid stop and go traffic as much as possble.

Havn't had that much time in the sattle yet; but today I went for a country ride ( 2 up) at 80 degrees outside and at every stop or slow turn I could feel the engine heat on my legs and the gauge was at middle or plus 1 click (arrow). When I first rode it home two weeks ago, the temp gauge went 2 clicks above middle in 60 degree weather on county roads (35 to 45 mph) (no traffic).

What is normal engine temp (in arrows per the temp gauge)

The thermostat opens at 4 bars. The fan kicks in at 8.

If you think the heat from your '08 is bad, be happy you didn't buy a C14 or ST1300

I would expect some warmth when stopped - heat rises and even changing the exhausts out won't resolve the amount of heat the engine produces - it IS a large engine and it is covered in plastic. The temps will still rise when stopped, though some of that heat might be from farther back.

At the speeds you were travelling you aren't getting that much air through the radiator - this is a touring machine and really prefers to go *faster*. I don't usually go as slow as you reported on city streets (except in heavy traffic), but I have observed that the gauge does tend to rise a bit on those occasions when I do. It won't overheat if the fan is working - just make sure your legs are properly covered and nothing will burn..

 

[madmike2]

The engine temp will usually stay in the middle of the gauge. In higher ambient temps or slower riding it will climb to the 3/4 mark and the fans will kick in. THEN you will feel a warm blast because the fans are pushing that hot air through the radiators and out the side vents. In my case, its particularly noticeable when stopped at a red light or while riding in stop-and-go traffic.

Cats: Yes, they are in the header. If you look under your bike, the 4 tubes join into a chamber at roughly the location of the center stand then the "mid-pipes" split off to the mufflers. That chamber contains the cats. I didn't notice any "great" change in temps when I had my Slip-ons mounted.

I wear riding "overpants" so my legs are semi-insulated. I noticed the heat more when I only wore blue jeans while riding.

FNG: Freaking New Guy We all started there and the title changes as your posts increase, or you can pick one and enter it yourself, like I did. (PM me and I'll outline how to do this)

Gear Clanking: If you are talking about the shift from neutral into first, the ALL do it. It has something to do with the stiction from the clutch plates to the main shaft. Every FJR I've ridden or ridden with has done it. The shifts between gears once riding are smoother...IF one shifts above 2500 RPMs. For whatever reason, the FJR seems to like to be shifted above 3500 RPMs rather than shifting @ 2500 like a cruiser. At least mine is much easier to shift in the 4,000 RPM raNGE.

 

[Geezer]

Too bad this didn't come on Friday, we could have had the 'Battle of the Rays". :lol:

Anyway, the transmission does smooth out with age. It is never perfect, but I haven't had a motorcycle, or other vehicle, that was. I was much happier with the shifting after I replaced the shift arm with a shorter one from an R1. It changes the mechanical advantage and makes shift throws shorter. I don't know if folks have been doing that on the Gen 2 FJRs, but there is a lot of discussion about it if you choose to search for it.

 

[lnewlf]

My '06 has no heat problem-Up here in the mountains sometimes I wish I had a Gen I with a heat prob. Clunky shifting was cured with a G2 throttle, a shifter adjustment and mostly by learning all over again how to ride a shaftie. I couldn't shift my '81 GS850[another place,another time] until I had some saddle time. Shaft drive seems to have a much tighter drive train than chain-my FJ1200 rear wheel would turn over an inch on the centerstand even with a tight adjustment- the FJR only about 1/2 inch. Learn to be smoooth.