Gen. 1 suspension upgrade - a couple of questions.

[kamal]

As my front and rear shock upgrade stuff should be here soon, I decided to make a start on prepping the bike.

Question 1.

Now that I have removed the rear shock and adjusting cable assy., should I put the black plate back? Can't see any purpose for it now?

Question 2.

All the rear suspension pivot points are in good shape and still well lubed. However, there is some side-play on the forward pivot, is that normal? It doesn't appear to have a replaceable bushing, though I admit I haven't looked at the parts diagram yet.

Also:

I was going to take pictures of the entire procedure and post them but there are so many excellent 'how to' posts I decided not to.

Thanks.

Al

 

[FJRBluesman]

As my front and rear shock upgrade stuff should be here soon, I decided to make a start on prepping the bike.

Why did you remove the rear tire? That makes it a little more difficult to do. Putting a 2x4 under the rear wheel gave it enough pressure to relieve the stress on the bolts you remove and hold the rear end up with the shock off, now you had to tie up the rear end. Silly person, FJRTech covers this real well. Note: I just noticed FJRTech is no longer around! I just found them under FJRTech.net, not .com.

Question 1.

Now that I have removed the rear shock and adjusting cable assy., should I put the black plate back? Can't see any purpose for it now?

I voted yes on two Gen1's, here’s why. I felt the plate helped with rigidity and overall integrity of the rear sub-frame. That's just me though, and I'm no engineer (thank God). I also glued a small alligator grommet on the forward edge of the plate as the shock reservoir line rubbed on the plate you are asking about.

Question 2.

All the rear suspension pivot points are in good shape and still well lubed. However, there is some side-play on the forward pivot, is that normal? It doesn't appear to have a replaceable bushing, though I admit I haven't looked at the parts diagram yet.

Not sure what you mean by side play. Can it move, I don't know. Should it move, that's another story. As long as there's no bearing slop or spacer wear, you should be ok. BTW - Since you have it this far apart, I'd lube those bearings, especially due to the environment you live in.

Also:

I was going to take pictures of the entire procedure and post them but there are so many excellent 'how to' posts I decided not to.

It's all a fairly simple job doing the rear shock. Good luck Al.

Thanks.

Al

 

[kamal]

<snipped>

As my front and rear shock upgrade stuff should be here soon, I decided to make a start on prepping the bike.

Why did you remove the rear tire? That makes it a little more difficult to do. Putting a 2x4 under the rear wheel gave it enough pressure to relieve the stress on the bolts you remove and hold the rear end up with the shock off, now you had to tie up the rear end. Silly person, FJRTech covers this real well. Note: I just noticed FJRTech is no longer around!

Question 1.

Now that I have removed the rear shock and adjusting cable assy., should I put the black plate back? Can't see any purpose for it now?

I voted yes on two Gen1's, here’s why. I felt the plate helped with rigidity and overall integrity of the rear sub-frame. That's just me though, and I'm no engineer (thank God). I also glued a small alligator grommet on the forward edge as the shock reservoir line rubbed on the plate you are asking about.

The rear wheel is at my buddy's place, having a new tire installed and balanced, I just used a ratcheting tie down to lift the swing arm.

The plate is only held in by four skinny screws, but, at my age, I need all the rigidity I can get - I will put it back.

Thanks for your input.

Al

Edit: I already have the FJRTech article printed out - but thanks again.

 

[SkooterG]

Most seem to keep the plate installed for the rigidity reasons Bluesy gave. I know I always have kept it there. The other advantage is if you want to temporarily install your OEM shock while getting your custom serviced.

 

[Surly]

Hi Al,

hope you document the process well so you can remember how to do it when it comes time for you to do mine.

Best regards

Surly

Happy New Year!

 

[kamal]

Hi Al,

hope you document the process well so you can remember how to do it when it comes time for you to do mine.

Best regards

Surly

Happy New Year!

Remember how to do what? Oh right, I'm working on something in the shed?

No problem Steve, I've got nothing but time. Bring 'er over!

All the best.

Al

 

[kamal]

Most seem to keep the plate installed for the rigidity reasons Bluesy gave. I know I always have kept it there. The other advantage is if you want to temporarily install your OEM shock while getting your custom serviced.

Thanks Skooter. Despite what Don says, you make sense.

Al

 

[Donal]

I agree with FJRBluesman - having got this far you really should strip and lube all you suspension relay bearings.

Looks to me (from your third pic) that the centre stand has never been off. The forward right hand bolt is installed from the outside during manufacture. This means you will need to release all the bolts holding the exhaust to allow you to 'spring' the exhaust system out of the way and get at that bolt. Of course before you get that far you will need to find another way to support the bike

It is also quite likely that the bushing (under the head of the forward bolt) will be seized in place. This will need to be freed up to allow you to remove the bolt

Some riders have cut or machined a slot in the centre stand bracket to allow them to remove the forward bolt without removing the centre stand. That is on my list for next time I do the rear suspension.

 

[Fred W]

Side to side play on the relay arm pivots is normal. The bolts only hold the center race of the needle bearings in place and the outer races are pressed into the relay arm, so the needles will allow inner to outer motion as far as the casting will allow. There is no lateral force on those bearings so no worries.

re: The spacer that freezes up in the alloy engine casting, mine was frozen but I still managed to still get the relay arm out for lubrication. Next time I will go in armed with the tools I need to un-seize it.

 

[kamal]

I agree with FJRBluesman - having got this far you really should strip and lube all you suspension relay bearings.

Looks to me (from your third pic) that the centre stand has never been off. The forward right hand bolt is installed from the outside during manufacture. This means you will need to release all the bolts holding the exhaust to allow you to 'spring' the exhaust system out of the way and get at that bolt. Of course before you get that far you will need to find another way to support the bike

It is also quite likely that the bushing (under the head of the forward bolt) will be seized in place. This will need to be freed up to allow you to remove the bolt

Some riders have cut or machined a slot in the centre stand bracket to allow them to remove the forward bolt without removing the centre stand. That is on my list for next time I do the rear suspension.

Side to side play on the relay arm pivots is normal. The bolts only hold the center race of the needle bearings in place and the outer races are pressed into the relay arm, so the needles will allow inner to outer motion as far as the casting will allow. There is no lateral force on those bearings so no worries.

re: The spacer that freezes up in the alloy engine casting, mine was frozen but I still managed to still get the relay arm out for lubrication. Next time I will go in armed with the tools I need to un-seize it.

Thanks Donal & Fred (sounds like a Vegas magic act

)

The relay arms are out, cleaned and lubed. Two heavy duty eye-bolts screwed into the 1948, rough-cut fir ceiling joists are doing a nice job of holding up the rear section.

My new stuff has arrived in Sumas, WA so I'll nip down tomorrow to pick it up.

Al

 

[Surly]

Hi Al,

hope you document the process well so you can remember how to do it when it comes time for you to do mine.

Best regards

Surly

Happy New Year!

Remember how to do what? Oh right, I'm working on something in the shed?

No problem Steve, I've got nothing but time. Bring 'er over!

All the best.

Al

Al,

You come over here, Cottesloe beach is magnificent!

https://bestplacevacation.com/cottesloe-beach-natural-vacation.html

 

[kamal]

<snipped>

Al,

You come over here, Cottesloe beach is magnificent!

Been there, done that!

Drove my bus all over Perth + worked and surfed at Scarborough Beach.

 

[Surly]

I see you still have your M.T.T. cap hanging on the wall of your shed.

There have been 5 fatal shark attacks in W.A. this year.

Seems lane splitting is a safer proposition.

When the cold gets to much come on over and warm your hands on my motorcycle.

 

[kamal]

The new Penske shock is installed, now working on the front end. I didn't like the recommended mounting for the remote reservoir, the supplied worm-drive clamp looked a little bogus. Being the type of person who never throws anything away, I made up a mount using a piece of scrap stainless and a stainless hydraulic clamp - considering buying a one-size-smaller clamp.

Al

 

[Fred W]

That reservoir mount looks pretty good. The one I've got from GP Suspensions is a bit nicer, but I'm sure yours was much more cost effective.

 

[kamal]

That reservoir mount looks pretty good. The one I've got from GP Suspensions is a bit nicer, but I'm sure yours was much more cost effective.

Darn! And I thought I'd finally had an 'original' idea

.

Thanks Fred.

Al

 

[FJRBluesman]

Looks great!

Enjoy the new suspeniosn ride!

 

[Bustanut joker]

Most seem to keep the plate installed for the rigidity reasons Bluesy gave. I know I always have kept it there. The other advantage is if you want to temporarily install your OEM shock while getting your custom serviced.

I removed mine to further lessen the weight of this fat pig...Than and the holes the PO drilled into various parts has me a pound or 2 lighter, 3 mph faster, and half a mile further per gallon of dead dinosaur.

 

[kamal]

Most seem to keep the plate installed for the rigidity reasons Bluesy gave. I know I always have kept it there. The other advantage is if you want to temporarily install your OEM shock while getting your custom serviced.

I removed mine to further lessen the weight of this fat pig...Than and the holes the PO drilled into various parts has me a pound or 2 lighter, 3 mph faster, and half a mile further per gallon of dead dinosaur.

Hey Bust. If you attach a small, lockable storage thingy to it, it makes a great hiding place for your 'stash'.

Al