Gen 2 FJR rear tire removal

[Dennis in NH]

I already looked at this: https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rearwheel.html

It's apparently for Gen I and certainly not for the ABS model. I have a 2010 FJR Gen 2

A few questions:

1) Why do we need the 3/4" plywood under the center stand? I'm guessing it's to give clearance for the rear wheel to slide out past that long rear fender right? I'm tempted to chop that fender in half, and rejoin it with bolts/nuts so that I can remove and reattach it with ease without having to use the 3/4" plywood. I already bought two sheets of the 3/4" plywood so I'm ready for this part.

2) We still need to remove the ABS sensor (just like when removing the front wheel right)?

3) Regarding the rear brake ABS disk (that's black shiny round hub that the ABS sensor bolts into), is there a "slot" that it needs to go onto when reinstalling it? I recall this is the case when reinstalling the front wheel.

4) Are there any difficulties and/or "tricks" needed to get that rear wheel off/on the left side "shaft driven" assembly?

5) From the looks of the photos in the link above, that rear brake has the axle go through it to hold it on. Is there a slot for the rear brake? is the technique to hold the rear wheel in place, slide the axle through the rear wheel, add in the ABS disk, line the disk up, and then put the brake on and then slide the axle further through the rear brake and out the other side?

Before I attempt to remove that rear wheel, I'm trying to ascertain any risks (i.e., pain in butts) first so I can be prepared. If that rear tire is going to be heavy, I want to prepare for that too (e.g., ensure my arms are in happy shape before doing this).

I've done this a few times on the R6 (so I'm not completely inexperienced here) but a bottom rear brake and ABS makes things a little different. Plus R6 wheels are lighter.

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[wheatonFJR]

I don't think Gen 2s are any different from Gen 1s regarding a tire change.

Review your service manual regarding ABS requirements and consult the FJRTech photos...

 

[Burnspot]

I already looked at this: https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rearwheel.htmlIt's apparently for Gen I and certainly not for the ABS model. I have a 2010 FJR Gen 2

A few questions:

1) Why do we need the 3/4" plywood under the center stand? I'm guessing it's to give clearance for the rear wheel to slide out past that long rear fender right? I'm tempted to chop that fender in half, and rejoin it with bolts/nuts so that I can remove and reattach it with ease without having to use the 3/4" plywood. I already bought two sheets of the 3/4" plywood so I'm ready for this part.

2) We still need to remove the ABS sensor (just like when removing the front wheel right)?

3) Regarding the rear brake ABS disk (that's black shiny round hub that the ABS sensor bolts into), is there a "slot" that it needs to go onto when reinstalling it? I recall this is the case when reinstalling the front wheel.

4) Are there any difficulties and/or "tricks" needed to get that rear wheel off/on the left side "shaft driven" assembly?

5) From the looks of the photos in the link above, that rear brake has the axle go through it to hold it on. Is there a slot for the rear brake? is the technique to hold the rear wheel in place, slide the axle through the rear wheel, add in the ABS disk, line the disk up, and then put the brake on and then slide the axle further through the rear brake and out the other side?

Before I attempt to remove that rear wheel, I'm trying to ascertain any risks (i.e., pain in butts) first so I can be prepared. If that rear tire is going to be heavy, I want to prepare for that too (e.g., ensure my arms are in happy shape before doing this).

I've done this a few times on the R6 (so I'm not completely inexperienced here) but a bottom rear brake and ABS makes things a little different. Plus R6 wheels are lighter.

Thanks,

Dennis

The plywood is for exactly what you stated...it makes it easier to wiggle the rear tire out. It's not too tough; I use a piece of 2x6 to do the same.

I always leave the ABS sensor attached to it's disk and just zip-tie it out of the way...it all comes loose once the axle's removed.

The ABS disk slots in with the brake assembly; it's fairly easy to line up. Brake assembly's position is pretty much dictated by the stay (or whatever that arm with the holes in it is called).

No real trick to getting the wheel off the final drive; just wiggle it loose. Most of the time, I find that it'll stay in place while you're dropping out the brake/ABS assembly and a little nudge pulls it off the FD gear.

The tire's not that heavy. I usually sit behind the bike and use one foot to hold the tire up and ease it out....and the reverse to re-install.

All in all, it's not difficult. Just don't lose the washer on the right side or the metal spacer tube that usually sticks to the inside face of the FD assembly after you remove the wheel.

 

[FJReady]

Dennis,

I just changed a rear tire last night so the steps sould be fresh in my head:

Removal. I put a 2 x 6 uders the centerstand to allow better clearance for rear tire removal.

1. Take out bolt holding rear caliper to alum bracket (the one with holes in it connected to swing arm.

2. Remove axle nut on left side of swing arm. (1 1/16" socket)

3. Loosen pinch bolt from right side of swing arm.

4. Put some thing under the rear tire to just touch it. this helps maintain position when you remover the axle

5. Remove the axle by whacking it from the left side with a rubber (repeat, RUBBER) hammer. It will slide all the way out to the right.

6. Pick up the spacer/washer that just fell on the floor. It was outboard of your brake caliper bracket on the axle.

7. Slide the brake caliper off the disc, it will dangle harmlessly below the swing arm.

8. Pull the ABS sensor ring out of the right side of the wheel. Flip it over the right swing arm, up against the muffler. Give the inside a good cleaning. This provides the seal interface for the right side wheel bearing.

9. Now remove that block you put under the rear tire. The wheel will easily slide off the drive spline if you move it toward the right.

This is a great time to consider servicing the Drive splines and U-Joint. Lookie here:https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/ujoint/uj.html

I do it every tire change because it's easy and I feel good afterwards.

Putting Tire back on:

Clean the hub splines and re-lube. I like the Honda Moly Paste 60 (something like that)

Put the tire back on the hub spline. push toward left of bike and support with that block again.

IInsert the ABS Sensor housing after you have greased the right side wheel bearing seal.

Insert the brake caliper, being careful to align the ABS housing anti-rotation tab in the brake calir bracket. This sounds easy but it takes a little time to get it right.

Install the brake caliper anti rotation bolt in the alum bracket under the swing arm. Do not tighten yet.

Install the axle spacer to the right of the bracket caliper housing. you'll have to hold it there until you get the axle started.

Clean the Axle . I put a thin coating of grease on the axle center section (not the threads or head) for corrosion protection. Insert thru the swing arm all the way until you see threads sticking out the left side.

Verify you have the ABS sensor and bracket caliper bracket lined up right.

Tighten the axle nut snug to pull the axle all the way to the left. This will tighten the ABS ring and caliper bracket against the wheel bearings. The right side of the axle should now be approximately flush to outside of right swing arm now. Tighten the pinch bolt.

Go back and torque the axle nut.

Tighten the screw (12mm nut) anti rotation caliper bracket under the swing arm.

You're good to go..

Hope that helps and that I remembered every thing.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Mark an Scott pretty much covered it. Just remember to put the washer on the right side or you'll be pulling your hair out.

 

[ajpagosa]

Mark an Scott pretty much covered it. Just remember to put the washer on the right side or you'll be pulling your hair out.

+1. Also do not forget and leave a tire iron inside the tire like I did.

 

[Spud]

A few more tips: Just snap a photo of each side of the axle w/your cell phone before you start, to see how it went together. Also, I like to bust the axle nut loose while the bike is on the sidestand before putting it up so you're pushing tires against the ground--more stable than when on centerstand.

 

[Panman]

I never put anything under the center stand?

 

[El Toro Joe]

I never put anything under the center stand?

+1, and I don't have any problems getting the wheel out or back in.

 

[snackbauer]

I don't either, been wondering why some do.

 

[Intech]

I have a trailer hitch that causes interference. With the center stand on a 2x4 and two bolts removed on the hitch I can swing it out of the way without removing it enough to get the tire off. Another option if you are doing both tires is to remove the front tire first. Then lower the front end down enough to get the tire out.

 

[ionbeam]

...remove the front tire first. Then lower the front end down enough to get the tire out.

But, don't lower the front end enough that the motorcycle tips forward and center stand folds up.

You guys that have no problem removing the rear tire without using a 2x4 or equivalent, are you doing that without flexing and manhandling the rear fender or is it a wrestling match?

 

[mcatrophy]

Very good advice above.

If it's of any help, a few pics of my '06 around here that might help.

I'm also a "nothing under the centre-stand" type. The license-plate holder flexes enough.

[edit] I do have to slacken my cruise control actuator. No way will the wheel come out without a foot clearance unless I do. [/edit]

 

[Intech]

...remove the front tire first. Then lower the front end down enough to get the tire out.

But, don't lower the front end enough that the motorcycle tips forward and center stand folds up.

You guys that have no problem removing the rear tire without using a 2x4 or equivalent, are you doing that without flexing and manhandling the rear fender or is it a wrestling match?

Alan,

I move my hitch up right to the bottom of the fender and with it on the 2x4 I get the tire out without flexing or manhandling. As for lowering the front end, I raise it with a jack under a board across the pipes. I lower it to the full retract of the jack and it is still stable.

 

[ionbeam]

If I'm doing both wheels I put a bar through the front forks where the axle would go then put a jack stand under the bar. With my jack stand extended 2 notches it's the perfect height to prevent problems plus provides another stabilizing point. I also use a floor jack and board under the pipes.

 

[Spud]

If you're stuck doing this behind a C-Store, stackable pepsi crates work just fine (front wheel)

Or, if you got a whole garage worth of **** to work with, go ahead and make it complicated!

 

[PhilJet09]

You guys that have no problem removing the rear tire without using a 2x4 or equivalent, are you doing that without flexing and manhandling the rear fender or is it a wrestling match?

I never put anything under my center stand either and have had that darn tire off lots, with 7 flats in the last two seasons. My differences may be: I usually don't have the bags on, I remove both the forward and aft bolts from the brake stay to get it completely out of the way, I remove the sensor from the ABS disc (it will corrode in there if you don't keep up on it and become almost impossible to remove) so I can get that completely out of the way, and I do bend the bottom of the fender slightly, but not much.

 

[ajpagosa]

Or, if you got a whole garage worth of **** to work with, go ahead and make it complicated!

That is nice. Did something similar with a power cage (like a squat rack) in my garage, hung the bike from the handle bars off of the chin up bar. You have more room though than I did inside the cage.

 

[Dennis in NH]

Hi all, ... big thanks to you'all!

From the sounds/looks of it, this doesn't seem so hard. I'll look around for something to plant under the tire to make it easier to get the axle off and on.

It sure is nice to see what things look like (thanks to the mactrophy photos) when apart so I know exactly what to expect. Should be an interesting project. I'll probably spend a little time poking around once that rear wheel is off.

The step by step was exactly was I was looking for and I'm now curious about the need for the 3/4" plywood under the rear tire -- we'll see how that goes.

Thanks again,

Dennis