Gen II Cruise Control install cable pull

[Kelvininin]

I have been picking away at the Rostra cruise install now for about two weeks, an hour here and there. Having infant twins and a toddler has kept me from throwing any real time at working through this. I have gone through several iterations of the cruise control throttle pull, most if them will probably work fine, none of them make me happy.

I looked into how McCruise manages the cable, they have developed a cable integration device, which is a box with cable cams in them. You use to be able to buy it as a separate kit. I guess that was taking business away from selling the whole cruise control kit thus its no longer available and it was expensive. BMW has a cable distribution system that is similar to the McCruise setup but far cheaper and available. I am kicking around picking one up from Ebay to dink around with, but everyday I work on the cruise, is one less day of the season I have to ride. Thoughts?

I did take a day off from the throttle cable pull and built my control bracket, with a spot for the oxford heated grip controller. I am pretty happy with how it turned out.

 

[Jack D]

Interestingly I have installed an Audiovox CCS100 cruise on my FJR and used the chain attached to the throttle mechanism method. I also have an R1200GS that I want to install a Rostra kit on. I have bought the extra pieces for the throttle cable junction box and hope to start on the install later this week. I plan on replacing the Rostra cable with one that I make as the cable is excessively long and stiff. When I do this I will be investigating on how easy it would be to use the BMW junction box on the FJR. I will keep you informed on what I find. I also plan on moving the Audivox unit under the right side fairing like MCCruise does.

 

[Mr_Canoehead]

I think that you are over-thinking it. You don't need a Bowden box or the beads for the Rostra on an FJR.

Here is what I did:

There is enough of a tang on the throttle cable section to drill out. In my case, I added a small piece of metal to get as close as possible to the 41mm (1-5/8") of travel that the Rostra is looking for. It looks like the cables interfere with each other in this photo but they don't touch anywhere in the travel of either one.

This is WFO:

I have an extra BMW Bowden box but I have been saving that for when I put cruise on the R1150.

 

[JamesK]

I originally installed the McCruise kit, including the CIU (cable interface unit) they provide with the kit. To be honest I never liked how it affected the throttle feel, and regretted buying into their sales pitch about it's "safety factor" over the tried and true linked chain method. This was over 240,000 miles ago, so when the vacuum servo finally became too high maintenance and given the fact that McCruise wanted something like $250+ for a replacement servo, I decided to go ahead and install the standard Audiovox servo, which also gave me the opportunity to remove the CIU and setup the linked chain on throttle tongue.

I also added a vacuum reservoir at the same time, which made the CC work 1000% better than it ever did without it, despite the repeated claims by McCruise folks that their system does NOT require an additional/separate vacuum reservoir.

Needless to say I'm very happy with the hybrid system I'm now running, being the McCruise CC ECU and control panel (and wiring loom) and the AVCC100 servo with the linked chain and a vacuum reservoir.

 

[jblanken64]

I'm contemplating adding a cruise as well as heated grips. I'd be very interested in seeing some additional pics of the bracket that you've fashioned. What I had in mind was very similar but hadn't even made it to the drawing board stage yet.

Joey.

 

[Mr_Canoehead]

Are you talking about the one I fashioned? I just used the throttle tongue that everyone else attaches to and the cut a small piece of Alum to extend it. I had to angle it slightly to ensure that it didn't contact either the cable or the airbox through the travel. Then I used the standard cable connector but made sure it was free to rotate. This is a closeup at full throttle:

If you don't extend the ear, you have to use a beads to reduce the travel a bit. I didn't want to do that since I have a 2006 with the already non-linear throttle response and wanted to give the cruise as much travel as possible to prevent it from being snatchy at low rpm.

I added a throttle tamer and heated grips at the same time.

Edit: you are probably asking about Kelvins control bracket. Here is what I did:

It's a small piece of Al angle held by the ram ball in the mirror mount.