Gen III 2013 FJR Off/On Throttle Abruptness

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QuikSilver

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Jan 28, 2006
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Location
Albuquerque, NM
Short Version:

My Gen III 2013 FJR 1300 EFI system has significantly degraded from “absolutely superb” at delivery and through the first 5000 miles. Now, at 6000 miles, I am experiencing annoying off/on throttle abruptness which is particularly nasty in first gear and in the twisties. I also observe slight surging and hunting going downhill w/ the cruise control on (much less so with the cruise off).

Anybody observed this in Gen IIIs? If so what was the diagnosis and resolution? Anybody know how to test the TPS w/ the built in diagnostic on a Gen III?

Note – I live in high and dry New Mexico, but I spent two weeks in Key West and Cocoa Beach Florida last October on the FJR. The salty atmosphere partially rusted a number of chromed screws and I am suspicious that that the salty atmosphere may also have degraded electrical contacts in the EFI/TPS/Throttle By Wire control system sensors that contributes to the erratic behavior I have observed.

The purpose of my inquiry is to see if any other 2013 FJR owners have experienced this degradation, and, if so, what was the diagnosis, how was it diagnosed, and were you able to get the problem cured.

Thanks in advance.

QuikSilver

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Longer, more detailed version

With over 100,000 miles on my 2003 FJR 1300, I test drove and subsequently purchased a 2013 FJR.

At purchase time, the EFI system my new 2013 Gen III FJR 1300 was outstanding, (if not amazing!!) as was that on the demonstrator I rode before purchase. It absolutely had the best EFI system of the 150 EFI bikes I have ridden in the last 10 years. Absolutely superb!! My observation is substantiated by reviews from several of the top motorcycle magazines (Motorcycle Consumer News, Sport Rider, Cycle World, …) which led me to buy the 2013 (as opposed to a used, very low mileage Generation II FJR for many thousands of dollars less).

Initially, the throttle response was exquisite. No abruptness , no hunting or surge. Just clean linear throttle response. Now, 1 year later with only 6000 miles on the clock, things have changed. Initial on/off throttle response is very abrupt (and annoying) as is on/off throttle response in the twisties. FJRs have a little driveline snatch, but this new on/off abruptness in throttle response greatly exaggerates the situation and is very annoying.

My warranty is expiring in the next few weeks and I will be taking the FJR in for evaluation. My concern is that they will say everything is working fine. And to some degree, I would agree as the EFI is still Very Good to Excellent, in an absolute sense, but significantly degraded from the superb performance when purchased. The originally outstanding cruise control is also slightly erratic when going down steep hills and is “hunting” up and down in a slight surging fashion to sustain the set speed. I now can actually control my speed downhill better with my wrist with the cruise control off, whereas before the cruise control was extremely smooth and seamless, up or down hills.

The purpose of my inquiry is to see if any other 2013 FJR owners have experienced this degradation, and, if so, what was the diagnosis, how was it diagnosed, and were you able to get the problem cured.

I had a somewhat similar problem (but not exactly the same problem) on my 2003 FJR that was diagnosed by IonBeam. It was a throttle position sensor issue that the dealer was amazed that IonBeam’s diagnostics could detect. I don’t have a 2013 Shop Manual, so I don’t know how to do the TPS diagnostic. I am hoping that someone else has seen this problem and has a proposed solution.

Additional Information: FYI - I did spend two weeks last year with the 2013 FJR in Key West and Cocoa Beach, Fl. The salt in the atmosphere caused rust on the heads of the screws that attach the rotors to the front wheel. I am suspicious that that the salty atmosphere may also have degraded electrical contacts in the EFI/TPS/Throttle By Wire control system sensors that contributes to the erratic behavior I have observed. Thus, input from people who live by, or have visited, beaches would be of particular interest. I believe this will be difficult issue for a dealer to diagnose, but I would greatly appreciate any insight this forum could provide.

 
You are not alone QuikSilver, mine does this too. Has from day 1, but i went through a this-must-be-normal phase!

I wish i could say my fuel delivery was great once. Your description is excellent, by the way !

Have not got it figured out yet, but Kens suggestions sound good. I have not used the diagnostic mode either, but wouldn't a code be getting thrown up if it was one of these sensors ?

 
What do you have your settings at, sport or touring in the computer ?!?!

Does it behave the same on both !??!?

 
10K+ miles on my 13 and have not noticed any abruptness/surging/hunting with cruise control on or off.

 
I had to go see! I seldom use Sport mode as Incremental throttle control is almost impossible with this issue.

But yes, mine is worse in sport mode.

 
You are not alone QuikSilver, mine does this too. Has from day 1, but i went through a this-must-be-normal phase!I wish i could say my fuel delivery was great once. Your description is excellent, by the way !

Have not got it figured out yet, but Kens suggestions sound good. I have not used the diagnostic mode either, but wouldn't a code be getting thrown up if it was one of these sensors ?
Not necessarily.

Just like a TPS on previous generations, can have a crook one and the bike stumbles without having any fault codes.

One of the two position transducers may be crook or set outside of specifications.

I'm under the impression that they use both sides of the center tap transducer as a checking circuit. (Like the Triumph Trophy's true ride by wire)

I'd also check their connectors for high resistance.

 
Thanks kiwiaudio. It is nice to know I am not alone.

Here's the latest on my issues.

I only use Sport Mode but I did check out the response in Tour mode and the abruptness was more subdued. But then again, all of the responsiveness is subdued in that mode, which is why I don't use it.

I bought a really cool electronic, very high-quality shop manual (788 pdf pages and electronically searchable; an e-mail arrived within 12 hours of purchase with a link to download the manual). I performed the diagnostics for the 2 Throttle Position Sensor Signals and the 2 Accelerator Position Sensor Signals, diagnostic codes 1, 13,14 & 15 as suggested by Queensland Ken. It is really easy.

(Note you do not have to disconnect the wire harness coupler from the the fuel pump as stated in Step 2 in the shop manual to check out the EFI sensors).

Here is what I measured and told the dealer:

"The TPS Diag 01 Signal 1 starts @ 15 but jumps to as high as 23 with a tiny turn of the throttle, skipping 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22. From then on, it is linear to 103 with no numbers skipped.

TPS Singal 2 (Diag 13) has a similar response. It starts @ 18 and jumps to 26 with a tiny turn of the throttle, skipping 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, and 25. From then on it is linear to 103 with no numbers skipped.

Customer believes the observed skipping of numbers in the TPS response is indicative of a bad TPS and would like it replaced under warranty. The skipping of numbers is also consistent with the abruptness observed in off to on throttle response."


The accelerator position sensor signals (Diag 14 and 15) were linear throughout the full range (14 - 101) with no numbers were skipped.

So, I think I have a faulty TPS. We'll see if the dealer's head mechanic agrees. He was more worried about the full range of the TPS (15 - 103) rather than the skipping of numbers when increasing the throttle slightly.

The jury is still out on the observed slight surging and hunting going downhill w/ the cruise control on. I am open to others suggestions on this one. When I replaced the TPS (twice) on my 2003 Gen 1 it solved the downhill hunting and surging problem.

Regards,

QuikSilver

 
That's a good find.

May have to get that info into the Gen3 Bin o Facts.

Wouldn't worry about those numbers as such, the Gen3 is different !!!

A value of 9–23 is indicated.When the throttle valves are fully closed

A value of 94–108 is indicated.When the throttle valves are fully open

An indicated value is out of the specified range → Re-place the throttle position sensor.

It also appears that it isn't self checking on the 2 TPS signals.

 
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Thats great information Quiksilver and Queensland Ken. Thankyou.

Be great to see the numbers from a TPS diagnostic on a Gen 3 that is running well !

Going to be a few days before i can get back home and run this diagnostic on mine.

Ill post my numbers then. Im looking forward to hearing what your dealer does for you Quiksilver.

I just read something about it not being a simple matter to just replace the TPS sensor. It supposedly has to be dialed in with a computer program by someone that really knows what they are doing.

Have you guys heard this ?

 
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Quiksilver, My numbers look very similar to yours !

Code #1. TPS Signal 1. Starts at 15, jumps to 20 with the slightest twist of the throttle, then linear to 103.

Code #13 TPS Signal 2. Starts at 17, jumps to 21, then linear to 103.

Code #14. APS Signal 1. Linear 17-102

Code #15 APS Signal 2. Linear 17-102

Tried this in sport and touring modes to see if it made any difference. It did not.

Someone with a sweet runner care to post their numbers ?

 
Curiosity got the better of me.

Code #1. TPS Signal 1. Starts at 15, jumps to 20 then linear to 102.
Code #13 TPS Signal 2. Starts at 17, jumps to 21, then linear to 103.
Code #14. APS Signal 1. Linear 17-103
Code #15 APS Signal 2. Linear 18-102

Looks like the TPS does jump, a Generation 3 thing, different to a Gen 2

The fueling on my bike is absolutely perfect

 
Ken and kiwi - How interesting our numbers are so similar.

I talked to the dealer today and they thought the TPS was fine (even though it skipped many numbers) but agreed to get me a new one, which is on order. I should have more info by Aug 19. I am optimistic, since replacing the TPS twice on my Gen 1 (at 39,000 & 72,000 miles) made substantial improvements.

 
Im wondering now if this surging issue is maybe not fuel related at all. Might be ignition related.

Hmmm......

Lets see what comes of your TPS replacement Quik.

 
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"The TPS Diag 01 Signal 1 starts @ 15 but jumps to as high as 23 with a tiny turn of the throttle, skipping 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22. From then on, it is linear to 103 with no numbers skipped. 

TPS Singal 2 (Diag 13) has a similar response. It starts @ 18 and jumps to 26 with a tiny turn of the throttle, skipping 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, and 25. From then on it is linear to 103 with no numbers skipped.

The TPS numbers are % of throttle opening. At idle the throttle is slightly open at 17%. When the the throttle is wide open it should read 100%. The span from lowest number to highest is fixed right around 83%. If the lower number is 17 the highest number will be 100. If the lower number is 15 the highest number will be 98. It sounds like the span of the Gen III TPS is a bit larger than the Gen I & Gen II.

The ECU reads a DC voltage from the TPS that is proportional to how far the throttle is turned. The ECU samples the DC voltage, turns it into a digital signal, process the digital signal and makes fuel trim adjustments based on that value (repeat, repeat, repeat many times per second). Perhaps the ECU has a sampling problem, perhaps the software has a glitch or more likely there is an issue with the TPS sensors. What you see on the diAG screen is exactly what the ECU is seeing. If the numbers jump, the ECU thinks you have popped the throttle and will adjust fuel trim accordingly.*

A Gen I TPS can be adjusted dead-nuts at 17/100 but when the idle screw is adjusted it will take the TPS slightly out adjustment by a small number of digits because the Gen I idle speed is adjusted by moving the throttle stop.

* The bad Gen I TPS had a dead spot causing the numbers to go 21, 22, 23, 24, 17, 17, 17, 28 so when the numbers dropped the ECU would go into decel fuel cut-off then suddenly come back on at 30 causing one heck of a rough ride.

 
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Thanks Ionbeam, great information. What you say makes a lot of sense, but the numerical gaps just above idle are still a mystery.

Working with Quiksilvers numbers then, the ECU is deciding on a fuel mixture at a TPS reading of 23, when it should track 16 thru 22.

Given that the TPS is mounted on the end of the throttle plate spindle shaft, i wonder if a small amount of stickage somewhere in the linkage path is making it jump?

 
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The way the TPS is mounted on my Gen I it would be impossible for it to stick.

Do the missing numbers happen all the time or only when hot?

If you have a DMM:

  • Put the black probe on the sensor ground (not chassis or battery) and the red probe on the reference +5 volt line from the ECU. Watch the voltage as the throttle is turned -- the voltage should remain stable with no dips or surges.
  • Leave the black DMM probe on ground and now probe the signal wire. Slowly rotate the throttle. The voltage should increase in a linear fashion with no hesitation, no drop-outs and no oscillations.
If the first test fails there is either a problem with the ECU reference voltage or the TPS is bad. If this test fails there is a second level of troubleshooting that will need to be done. Let us know.

If the second test fails the TPS is bad not working correctly.

If the sensor passes these two tests there is an issue inside the ECU or at the ECU connector.

Talisker Single Malt Scotch time. Err, Miller time.

 
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