Gen III ES Electrical Observations

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ionbeam

2 FUN
Joined
Jun 24, 2005
Messages
8,817
Reaction score
1,785
Location
Sandown, NH
I had a chance to look at a Gen III schematic. Holy carp!

1. Whazzup with the squint to read layout? The schematic is cramped onto one page and needs to be 3 pages. A magnifying glass let me see better but it makes tracing the circuits hard.

2. Wires. Lots and lots and lots more than the Gen I. If every line on the schematic is a wire, then there is at least 10 pounds of additional wires from the Gen I. (And, where did they find room to stuff them all?)

3. Connectors. To go with all the wire there is an equal or larger explosion of connector counts.

4. New wire tie points not shown on the Gen I & II schematics.

5. The ECU now controls some functions that were done via modules/relays on the previous years. The Starter Cut-Off module remains.

6. Arachnophobia big time. Spider nightmare. The good news is the ground spiders are shown on the schematic, even if not numbered. The bad news is there are still ground spiders and they have proliferated. The worse news is they have also spread to the power circuits too and now the power goes through spiders. Hopefully the increase in spider count will result in current load reduction in the circuits, giving the spiders a long, healthy life.

7. Fuses haven't been left out either, there are more fuses too.

8. There is indeed a computer diagnostic port, but not OBD II compliant. I will look more into this. The FSM lists a number of seriously useful things that the port can give access to including the direct reading of all the sensors and mapping sensor performance. The FSM does go into unusual detail and very specifically states that the ignition timing is not adjustable via the diagnostic port. I think they added that line specifically for me after reading the Forum
wink.png


I know a lot of you guys have been dealing with this since '13, but it was a bit of a surprise that nobody has whined mentioned it before because it's significant. Or, maybe I just missed it. Some senior Forum member needs to chide me for not doing a search first
laugh.png


Edit: The FSM also indicates that the CO adjustment is now standard. Now that it apparently isn't needed anymore with the fly-by-wire.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I know a lot of you guys have been dealing with this since '13, but it was a bit of a surprise that nobody has whined mentioned it before because it's significant. Or, maybe I just missed it. Some senior Forum member needs to chide me for not doing a search first
laugh.png
I think that's a fair assessment. No chiding needed. I haven't seen much on Gen 3 compare or contrasting than maybe Warchild when they first came out. :)

I wondered a bit with my '14 about the possibility of spiders, but also still wondering if spiders are as likely to bite if you don't mess with the stock wiring. Assuming that point I took deliberate steps NOT to modify the stock wiring when I farkled my '14 ES...with the sole exception of tying into the glovebox wire and high beams only as low-amperage relay triggers for my Fuzeblock and auxiliary lights.

Now, the '14 was dead before it's time never having gotten the real chance to experience a long life as a test rig. However, those were 18,000 trouble-free miles with a gaggle of gadgets installed. Sorry I can't add more data other than to offer other than to affirm the wiring from the Gen 3.....yes....was VERY different than my Gen 1.

 
Holy Carp is right. Just so happens I am planning to help my buddy Rick install some farkles on his '14ES this weekend.

I've had no trouble with all the electrical farkles on my 2005, tested over 100K miles and a decade+ of use and I think therefore he's confident in my wiring methodology.

Do I have to rethink my approach based on new Gen 3 wiring architecture or does conventional basic circuit theory still apply.

Ya got me nervous Professor. Iggy's last sentence isn't instilling confidence either...

 
...6. Arachnophobia big time. Spider nightmare. The good news is the ground spiders are shown on the schematic, even if not numbered. The bad news is there are still ground spiders and they have proliferated. The worse news is they have also spread to the power circuits too and now the power goes through spiders. Hopefully the increase in spider count will result in current load reduction in the circuits, giving the spiders a long, healthy life.

...

Some senior Forum member needs to chide me for not doing a search first :lol:

....
Not sure if I count as a "senior member", but I did mention those connectors way back here.
And, Mr Ionbeam, you were a respondee to that thread ;) .

 
Not sure if I count as a "senior member", but I did mention those connectors way back here.

And, Mr Ionbeam, you were a respondee to that thread
wink.png
.
Since you wrote the thread and took the pictures it probably was easier for you to remember the post. Besides it happened more than 12 hours ago, I'm sure that memory is looong gone :)

BTW, look at how clean that FJR was!

 
Not sure if I count as a "senior member", but I did mention those connectors way back here.And, Mr Ionbeam, you were a respondee to that thread ;) .
Since you wrote the thread and took the pictures it probably was easier for you to remember the post. Besides it happened more than 12 hours ago, I'm sure that memory is looong gone :)

BTW, look at how clean that FJR was!
And I'm anal enough to be able to reference it :) .

Bike's not so clean now, though. It gets an occasional quick clean, then it gets used. This weather, it gets dirty. Tough.

 
8. There is indeed a computer diagnostic port, but not OBD II compliant.

You gotta get a 2016 for that.
The dealer also told me that on the 16 you now must hook up to a diagnostic computer to read trouble codes. The DIAG display is no longer available. I'm glad I get along well with my dealer.

 
8. There is indeed a computer diagnostic port, but not OBD II compliant.

You gotta get a 2016 for that.
The dealer also told me that on the 16 you now must hook up to a diagnostic computer to read trouble codes. The DIAG display is no longer available. I'm glad I get along well with my dealer.
Take a look in the FSM "Special Tools" section. Yamaha P/N 90890-03216 Yamaha Diagnostic Tool (US) is a CD, computer cables and a manual for the Gen III '15 diagnostic port.

I'd be willing to bet that the '16 FSM shows a similar item. If the '16 is indeed OBD II you should be able to get a Mitsubishi OBD II reader/programmer and read the ECU with any laptop.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Two days ago I had occasion to dig into the wiring diagram.... I too was farkling and in awe over the number of spiders....... figured the cure was a separate 10 ga. feed to the EB PC-8 fuse panel and return to the battery via 10 ga ground. Relayed of course. I don't plan to tap into the bike's wiring too much, but I am going on a spider hunt soon.

 
8. There is indeed a computer diagnostic port, but not OBD II compliant.

You gotta get a 2016 for that.
The dealer also told me that on the 16 you now must hook up to a diagnostic computer to read trouble codes. The DIAG display is no longer available. I'm glad I get along well with my dealer.
Take a look in the FSM "Special Tools" section. Yamaha P/N 90890-03216 Yamaha Diagnostic Tool (US) is a CD, computer cables and a manual for the Gen III '15 diagnostic port.

I'd be willing to bet that the '16 FSM shows a similar item. If the '16 is indeed OBD II you should be able to get a Mitsubishi OBD II reader/programmer and read the ECU with any laptop.
If it's a standard OBD-II like cars, it's super easy to read the codes and sensors. I use a bluetooth ODB-II connector ($21.99 https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458685311&sr=8-2&keywords=obd+bluetooth) and I bought Torque app ($5. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree) running on my android phone, I could read/clear codes and monitor all available sensors in real-time while driving. I left the OBD-II scan tool connected to the OBD-II port on my car permanently and just pull up my phone when I need to see something.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I know a lot of you guys have been dealing with this since '13, but it was a bit of a surprise that nobody has whined mentioned it before because it's significant. Or, maybe I just missed it. Some senior Forum member needs to chide me for not doing a search first
laugh.png
I took deliberate steps NOT to modify the stock wiring when I farkled my '14 ES...with the sole exception of tying into the glovebox wire and high beams only as low-amperage relay triggers for my Fuzeblock and auxiliary lights.
Going on the assumption that you put the Fuzeblock under the seat, are you saying you ran the trigger for that back from the glovebox? Anything closer to be had mid-ship?

 
You can pick up a trigger from the running light circuits (tail or lic. lamp) by the air cleaner... lic. lamp wire is blue, and there is a bullet connector. Tail lamp wire is blue, in the larger harness beside it.

 
Holy Carp is right. Just so happens I am planning to help my buddy Rick install some farkles on his '14ES this weekend.
I've had no trouble with all the electrical farkles on my 2005, tested over 100K miles and a decade+ of use and I think therefore he's confident in my wiring methodology.

Do I have to rethink my approach based on new Gen 3 wiring architecture or does conventional basic circuit theory still apply.

Ya got me nervous Professor. Iggy's last sentence isn't instilling confidence either...
Farkle away without worry. I've got 5 of my 6 PDM60 circuits (with a 7 second default delay) in use with just one trigger wire to my high beam circuit. No issues thus far.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
...Do I have to rethink my approach based on new Gen 3 wiring architecture or does conventional basic circuit theory still apply...
You will need somebody like audiowize to help with wiring because it's now straight electron flow, current flows from the negative pole to the positive pole
wink.png


As mentioned in previous posts, the Gen III comes with a factory installed SAE connector (at least the ES does). Things like this help tap primary power off the battery:

6280498_wrt_30700_pri_detl.jpg


The tabs can be bent down for clearance and the spade connectors can be had big enough to support #10 wire. I've used these on both the + and - posts of motorcycle batteries for years because they work and are convenient to use.

My preference has been to locate my power distribution in the nose because that's where the majority of my farkles get installed. There was enough room in my Gen I to get two 8 position terminal strips installed, one for switched and another for unswitched power. The terminals can be jumped together using a shorting strip. The strip can be broken to control the number of terminals joined. I use one row for power and the other row for ground.

jumperstrip.jpg
PH-13-1408B-2.jpg


With some pre-planning you can get mating connectors from someplace like Eastern Beaver and make tee taps so you don't have to cut/splice/tap the harness wires and it makes for really solid wiring.

Good luck with your '14ES wiring adventures!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wait...there's an SAE connection?! Totally missed that.
Yup should be. Go fish around the battery area. There is no bracket or hanger for the connector, it just gets stuffed under the black faring panel at the battery. It'll be about 12" long.

There has been some past discussion if the dealer is supposed to install it, if some bikes came without the connector or if only some models have it. I've seen a few Gen III and they all had the connector. It is not shown on the schematic or listed in the schematic item index.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The only way there is an SAE connector on any FJR is if the dealer was nice enough to install one when they assembled the bike.

 
Top