Queensland Ken
Well-known member
Fitted the Stiffy and the Givi SR357 to the Gen 3 yesterday, all went well.
-
If you have bought, sold or gained information from our Classifieds, please donate to FJRForum and give back.
You can become a Supporting Member or just click here to donate.
Gen2/3 Subframe Stiffy Kit by Garauld
- Thread starter garauld
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
fjRaven
Well-known member
That is a great weld job.... the person who did that knows what he is doing.Gday guys,
I've just finished repairing my subframe for the second time. I highly recommend you use one of these kits if you don't have the Givi 357. I probably would have used one if they were available at the time.
Pete
The broken subframe
The repairs, underneath
The repairs, top side
Wanted to get opinions on this, trying to keep busy on a rainy day. Given where the subframe breaks with the topboxes on them. Seems like it's because the frame hangs out of the tire with no support and with the bouncing of the topbox just gives out in the same place most every time. The whole weight of the back section is putting stress on that one part of the subframe. The stiffy kit braces the sides of the frame and holds it up the frame from the top of the back of it. I'm sure it's a quality product and if this doesn't work will be getting one myself.
What about simply supporting it from the bottom so it doesn't bounce and has that extra support? The plastic bottom is hard and won't give much and disperses the weight, If the woods starts to give you can always add a metal plate on top. Just a piece of 2x4 with a couple of shims to fit it in there tight.
Sure there's a technical reason why this isn't a good idea, any thoughts?
MIke
Last edited by a moderator:
IMHO, it's not a solution. The failure is due to repeated torqueing on the weak (relatively) aluminum subframe by the rearward c.g. of the topbox. My steel (stronger) stiffy kit was designed to transfer the torque around the failure area by creating a longer stronger moment arm.
fjRaven
Well-known member
Mechanical engineer I am not, did not think of that but makes sense. Will be ordering one in the near future.
VMaxChuck
Well-known member
NormKern
Well-known member
1. Re wood blocks: There is a sticker on my rear fender that says something about a max load for tools etc on it is something like 2 pounds, so the fender cannot support any weight. (Have to look at the label to be sure of the weight limit.) Besides, the fender is supported by the subframe, not the other way around. The wood blocks will not add any strength whatsoever.
Wanted to get opinions on this, trying to keep busy on a rainy day. Given where the subframe breaks with the topboxes on them. Seems like it's because the frame hangs out of the tire with no support and with the bouncing of the topbox just gives out in the same place most every time. The whole weight of the back section is putting stress on that one part of the subframe. The stiffy kit braces the sides of the frame and holds it up the frame from the top of the back of it. I'm sure it's a quality product and if this doesn't work will be getting one myself.
What about simply supporting it from the bottom so it doesn't bounce and has that extra support? The plastic bottom is hard and won't give much and disperses the weight, If the woods starts to give you can always add a metal plate on top. Just a piece of 2x4 with a couple of shims to fit it in there tight.
Sure there's a technical reason why this isn't a good idea, any thoughts?
MIke
2. A broken/rewelded subframe is never as strong as the undamaged subframe, so the best time to get/install the Gerauld stiffy bracket is BEFORE the subframe breaks.
No hurry on the stiffy bracket- just make sure you install one before you mount a topcase.
NormKern
Well-known member
<blockquote class="ipsBlockquote" data-author="fjRaven" data-cid="1137752"><p> <br /> <br /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n551/buckhorn24/photo1-1.jpg" src="https://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n551/buckhorn24/photo1-1.jpg" /><br /> <br /> <br />Wanted to get opinions on this, trying to keep busy on a rainy day. Given where the subframe breaks with the topboxes on them. Seems like it's because the frame hangs out of the tire with no support and with the bouncing of the topbox just gives out in the same place most every time. The whole weight of the back section is putting stress on that one part of the subframe. The stiffy kit braces the sides of the frame and holds it up the frame from the top of the back of it. I'm sure it's a quality product and if this doesn't work will be getting one myself.<br /> <br />What about simply supporting it from the bottom so it doesn't bounce and has that extra support? The plastic bottom is hard and won't give much and disperses the weight, If the woods starts to give you can always add a metal plate on top. Just a piece of 2x4 with a couple of shims to fit it in there tight. <br /> <br />Sure there's a technical reason why this isn't a good idea, any thoughts?<br />MIke<br /> </p></blockquote><br />1. Re wood blocks: There is a sticker on my rear fender that says something about a max load for tools etc on it is something like 2 pounds, so the fender cannot support any weight. (Have to look at the label to be sure of the weight limit.) Besides, the fender is supported by the subframe, not the other way around. The wood blocks will not add any strength whatsoever.<br /><br />2. A broken/rewelded subframe is never as strong as the undamaged subframe, so the best time to get/install the Gerauld stiffy bracket is BEFORE the subframe breaks.<br /><br />No hurry on the stiffy bracket- just make sure you install one before you mount a topcase.<br /><br /><br />
dcarver
Well-known member
Hey, does this mean I AM good at something?To test this you need someone that has pioneered almost every possible failure on this platform. A man that could destroy an iron ball with his bare hands.I won't mention any names, but the initials dcarver come to mind
Gary's looks much better than my fix..
https://candybutt.org/pix/motobikes/wrenching/Fjr1300/2012-06-05%20BrokenSubFrame/2012-08-08%20Welded/2.jpg
I installed today Gary's kit on my Gen III. All works well and frame fits perfectly. Good job Gary!
Klubis
Well-known member
Just ordered mine! With this kit installed, will my top box rating be more than 11 pounds? LOL
striker
Active member
So how much and how do I get one? I just got my FJR in October and I haven't loaded it up yet, but it sounds like this is a must-have and I can't believe that they call it a sport-tourer if it can't take a top case! Now that I think of it, maybe that's why they want to call it a supersport-tourer, because they made it too light to be a real workhorse?
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2012
- Messages
- 307
- Reaction score
- 52
Striker - Send Garauld a private message on what you want, to get Quote from him ( see post #28)
Last edited by a moderator:
striker
Active member
will do - thanks
Anybody done some serious stress testing - how much does it hold?
Anybody done some serious stress testing - how much does it hold?
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
I'd imagine a stress test wouldn't yield usable results. Likely it'll hold a LOT of weight. The true question is, how much weight will it carry over a few years of road bumps while rocking back and forth on that point of the frame. For that, I say that 15 pounds in a Shad without the stiffy kit would be over the limit.
Striker - how's your luck in Vegas?...
A41Billy
Well-known member
Got my stiffy fitted into the rear. I would gladly pay to do it again! Install went great and the kit is well made. Now no worries on loading it up for trips. Thanks Gary!
woodcycl
Well-known member
Just sent a PM to Gerauld. Looking forward to installing!
