GenII Charging System in GenI?

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Toolman

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Has anyone tried to install a Gen II Stator, Rotor and Rectifier in a Gen I FJR? I would like to do it but if someone has tried and run into problems then I won't waste my time. I had a Electrosport stator but it only lasted about 40,000 miles. I was hoping to get more life out of an OEM set-up.

 
It has been talked about but I don't think anybody has actually done it. I will be watching this because my eletrojunk has about 20 k on it and I won't buy another one.

There was some talk about another aftermarket unit being developed but Haven't heard anything recently.

 
I am pretty sure there were a couple FJRs in this past IBR that did the conversion without much difficulty. I believe Bob St. George was one of them. I'll see if I can contact him.

 
There is a chance that a Gen I to Gen II generator upgrade is just a matter of swapping parts. The only challenge would come from the relocation of the voltage regulator from near the radiator cap to the lower back of the engine area. Wiring from the stator to the new R/R location won't be too bad but the battery wires could be fiddling. It appears that the Crankcase Cover is larger to accommodate the bigger Rotor Assembly. If the size difference is only in length things will be fine, but if the change is in diameter, there may be be faring 'adjustments' required.

The good news is that the crankshaft is the same, Gen I to Gen II so the parts should simply be plug 'n play. Both the stator and rotor would need to be changed. Additional good news is that the starter gear set that shares space with the generator is the same between the Gen's.

2004

15JW-15411-00-00 COVER, CRANKCASE

25JW-15451-00-00 GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER

5JW-11411-00-00 CRANKSHAFT

5JW-81450-10-00 ROTOR ASSY

5JW-81410-10-00 STATOR ASSY

5JW-81960-00-00 RECTIFIER & REGULATOR ASSY

2008

3P6-15411-00-00 COVER, CRANKCASE $73.28

25JW-15451-11-00 GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER

5JW-11411-00-00 CRANKSHAFT N/C

3P6-81450-00-00 ROTOR ASSY $310.97

3P6-81410-00-00 STATOR ASSY $228.81

1D7-81960-00-00 RECTIFIER & REGULATOR ASSY $159.70

3P6-81975-00-00 PLATE, RECTIFIER FITTING $12.90

The Gen II parts (less the gasket), with a slight discount would be $785.66; with a 15% discount would be $667.81.

Anyone want to offer a Gen II for comparisons? Anyone want to bankroll me? :)

 
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Thanks for the replies.

I know it will be exspensive but I want reliability. I ride to work everyday yearound so I need to have it dependable. I just don't want to spend all that money and find out it won't work!

Thanks again,

Ron

 
The Gen II parts (less the gasket), with a slight discount would be $785.66; with a 15% discount would be $667.81.
Anyone want to offer a Gen II for comparisons? Anyone want to bankroll me? :)
Thanks for the concise post laying the possible swap out. Going to add to the Gen 1 Bin O' Facts until/unless somebody actually bankrolls you. ;)

 
139 thousand and change. Still enjoy the bike but I need to be able to run my Gerbings gear in the winter. No major problems (knock wood). If I do the swap I will post up the results.

Ron

 
139 thousand and change. Still enjoy the bike but I need to be able to run my Gerbings gear in the winter.
I've run my Warm-n-safe full bore along with HID high beams AND HID low beams (yes that's about 12,000 lumens of light) and not dipped below 13.3 volts with my stock alternator. Been doing that for most of the 110,000 miles in my '05 and haven't felt a need to change from stock.

What voltage are you running when you're at full load?

 
139 thousand and change. Still enjoy the bike but I need to be able to run my Gerbings gear in the winter. No major problems (knock wood). If I do the swap I will post up the results.Ron
Most excellent.

I just heard back from Bob St. George:

I did install the GEN II Stator, Rotor and Regulator. Now I am not 100% positive that you need to do the regulator but Donelson's Cycle in St.Louis was doing the work for me and stealing the parts from a bike on the showroom floor. So they wanted to do the whole electrical system.
So it has been done. If doing yourself, make sure to get parts from Gary McCoy and Mondak Motors for a hefty discount.

He couldn't remember exactly who else did the upgrade either. Derek Dickson perhaps?

Iggy? Warchild?

Here's a question: If doing the upgrade, would one then need to worry about a more likely occurrence of ignition switch failure?

 
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The Gen II parts (less the gasket), with a slight discount would be $785.66; with a 15% discount would be $667.81.
That seems like a whole lot of money for 100 watts.

Or am I being shortsighted, living in a subtropical paradise with no LD prospects?

 
Ignacio maybe I need to rethink this. I'm impressed to here your results. I thought running at 13.3 volts for extended time was not good.

 
Ignacio maybe I need to rethink this. I'm impressed to here your results. I thought running at 13.3 volts for extended time was not good.
My understanding is the charging system runs at 100% all the time anyway and any unused power is shunted to ground. One uses a voltmeter to "gauge" how much of the amperage you're actually using. As it drops from a nominal of 14.3 or so to levels like 12.6...you're reaching the alternator capacity and in a defecit mode drawing surplus from the battery. You run for a some time like this and eventually the battery drains, bike starts missing, and you have to choose between being cold or it being dark....or your bike not running anymore. ;)

You installed a Datel or other voltmeter and actually monitor while you're riding? If not, a Datel is FAR better and economical first investment I'd consider.

And, I do think alternator performance does drop off with mileage as wires become encrusted in parts of cooked oil. With a newer FJR on a typical spring day I'd see 14.3 volts without a load, but these days she's usually 14.1 volts and down to 14 on hot days. I still seem to have enough for lots of photons, clothing, and low-amperage goodies like GPS, radar, and audio.

If I was running halogen low beams AND HID high beams...sketchy. If I had a pillion wanting electric....then NO WAY.

Or the short answer is that we all pretty-much speculate on all this crap and *think* we have a feeling for the right voltage. ;)

 
My understanding is the charging system runs at 100% all the time anyway and any unused power is shunted to ground. One uses a voltmeter to "gauge" how much of the amperage you're actually using. As it drops from a nominal of 14.3 or so to levels like 12.6...you're reaching the alternator capacity and in a defecit mode drawing surplus from the battery. You run for a some time like this and eventually the battery drains, bike starts missing, and you have to choose between being cold or it being dark....or your bike not running anymore. ;)
According to above mentioned fart smeller (as well as a few others on the board), that's not exactly accurate. Even though the stator is putting out 100% voltage all the time, as you increase the load close to that 100% it starts working the stator pretty hard. But I'll let them say it better than I did.

 
The Gen II parts (less the gasket), with a slight discount would be $785.66; with a 15% discount would be $667.81.
That seems like a whole lot of money for 100 watts.

Or am I being shortsighted, living in a subtropical paradise with no LD prospects?
Hummmmm, you really have lived in Floria a long time haven't you? Do you remotely remember what it's like to be bone chilling, teeth chattering cold? At that point, if 100 watts would keep you warm, you'd pay anything to get it!

 
The Gen II parts (less the gasket), with a slight discount would be $785.66; with a 15% discount would be $667.81.
That seems like a whole lot of money for 100 watts.

Or am I being shortsighted, living in a subtropical paradise with no LD prospects?
Hummmmm, you really have lived in Floria a long time haven't you?
51 years. Guess that's a long time.

Do you remotely remember what it's like to be bone chilling, teeth chattering cold? At that point, if 100 watts would keep you warm, you'd pay anything to get it!
I guess, but POV is everything. :)

Last time I got that cold was Jan '98. Left Tampa Int'l Airport at 4pm, 81 degrees....flew in to Providence, R.I., -18 degrees. :dribble:

Thought I was gonna die getting from the concourse to the rental car. Sportcoat was my only nod to cold weather. Don't own a lot of cold weather gear living in Fla.

 
According to above mentioned fart smeller (as well as a few others on the board), that's not exactly accurate. Even though the stator is putting out 100% voltage all the time, as you increase the load close to that 100% it starts working the stator pretty hard. But I'll let them say it better than I did.
Why I carefully couched my seemingly knowledgeable load of crapola with a caveat at the end. I haven't gotten any actual diagnostic equipment nor even quasi-certified training in the subject. But, then again I know you have a different boat load of crapola too. :)

I too would follow the more sagely ionbeam advice from this point. ;)

 
Has anyone tried to install a Gen II Stator, Rotor and Rectifier in a Gen I FJR? I would like to do it but if someone has tried and run into problems then I won't waste my time. I had a Electrosport stator but it only lasted about 40,000 miles. I was hoping to get more life out of an OEM set-up.
Hi,I did this conversion in 2007 to my 05. I had an Electrosport stator/rotor set-up and it died during the 07 IBR. Donelson's Cycles in St. Louis, MO did the conversion for me. They took the regulator/rectifier, stator and rotor out of an 07 on the showroom floor. It cost me roughly $1100 I think the parts were approximately $700.00. If you want to go back to the 05 set-up I have the original stator, rotor and regulator/rectifier from my 05 these parts have about 20,000 miles on them. If you want them you can have them for $250.00~ includes shipping.

Bob St.George

 
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