Givi box airborne at 80mph!

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Actually, turning the key just allows the red push button latch release to be pushed in.

With the key in the "locked" position you can't push the red latch release in, so it is "locked".

But with the key in the "locked" position you can still push the spring loaded latch down over the base plate's tab and it should latch on.

Hope that made some sense.

 
That made sense to me thanks. So if the tab on my lock button was broken off before the box fell off i wouldnt know unless i had tried to push the button with it locked. Ofcourse i never do that that. The box is only off my bike when i do a good washing a couple times a year.

I am thinking that this might be why my box fell off maybe.

 
I still get "This video either has been removed from Facebook or is not visible due to privacy settings."

Oh, well.

 
OK, well... that didn't take too long.

The $3 remedy to flying GIVI trunks(mine is a V46):

What you'll need to buy from local hardware store (I used Home Depot)):

1 ) - 3/8" x 2" long Clevis pin

2 ) - 3/8" Sealing Washers (bonded) need 2

3 ) - Hitch pin clip

4 ) 3/8" plastic spacer (cut to 3/4" length)

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With the bag mounted normally on the rack, drill a 3/8" hole down through the center of the area in the trunk bottom that would be used for the Givi brake light connector, or if you have the brake light connector, the same place on the opposite side of the latch could be used. Drill straight down, all the way through the plastic (or metal) givi mounting plate.

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Put one sealing washer on the clevis pin and then insert through the hole in the bag and rack plate. The sealing washers are nice. They are rubber bonded to a conical shaped washer. They are a friction fit to the clevis pin and will make it easier to put the pin on and off if removing the trunk.

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Push another sealing washer on the clevis pin from underneath, this is to spread out any load (should the latch actually come loose) across more plastic area.

The plastic spacer is needed so that the hitch pin will be flush with the bottom of the rack when installed.

Slide spacer onto clevis pin and clip the hitch pin to hold it all together.

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FredW - U R da MAN!

I took your suggested shopping list to HD, got the supplies, and quickly whipped this out! :yahoo:

What an easy quick job for extra security. I think one clevis pin is fine to help prevent any lock failure, it's not like we're going Mach 2. The friction fit of the washers and even the pin thru both plastic pieces is plenty good. The only drag was they only had 1/2" long spacers so I had to cut one and use both. I'll go to a better HW store and get the right stuff.

Thanks again Fred!! :clapping:

 
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I have yet to hear of a Yamaha top case falling off at speed once they reinforced the bottom plate with steel. It is considerably more expensive but you get what you pay for... I would do it again.

 
Excellent thread. Glad it was revived since I JUST bought and installed a Givi Mount (used) and a brand new V46 which I would be SOFA KING PISSED if I lost it!

My (used) mount had a some wear at the latch point and the new box had a fair amount of slop when mounted. What I did was pulled the 2 rearmost rubber bumbers out of their holes on the rack, placed a nice little stainless steel thin washer in the bumper's hole on the rack and reinstalled the bumper and pulled it's attachment stem back through the hole. This raised that little bumper the thickness of the washer and completely took all the slop out of the trunk.

I believe these pressure points are far enough out to the sides to allow the box enough natural flex that the latch is able to engage without excess friction as pointed out in Wfooshee's earlier post in the thread regarding his observation.

Now that I have seen this thread, I'm headed to the local ACE Hardware right now to get my safety pin supplies. :p

Why risk it. Between the new box, the color-matched lid panel, and the new backrest, there's way to much invested to watch it go blowing past me in pieces while going down the road! :blink:

 
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I've lost track. What is the official score on this? Is the problem with the Givi mounting rack, or the Premier Cycle mount, or both, or perhaps the Givi latch itself? Most of the photos posted shows the Givi mount. Also, has anybody installed Freds safety pin on the Premier mount? FWIW I've been using the Premier mount, E-52 case, and Addmore Lighting, for 3 years and at least 20k miles without a single issue. I also stuff it with camping gear for 2 all the time.

 
Elegant fix there with the clevis and the hitch pin. I needed an excuse for a ride just now so I picked up 4 sets of the clevis/hitch pin fix at McClendon's. Anyone that's gonna be at the PNW tech meet Sat is welcome to the remaining 3 sets. 1st come 1st served.

 
Well to be honest i dont know 100% why the box came off the bike .I found that when i was rebuilding the box a broken red push button that holds the box on. But i am just not sure.That could have broke when it was bouncing down the road.

I ended up sanding the scratchs down and using NAPA undercoating to cover it up and then ordered new parts from Twistedthrottle.com its good as new now sorta !!.

i now have a pin kit in it too. Thanks Fred!

 
I've lost track. What is the official score on this? Is the problem with the Givi mounting rack, or the Premier Cycle mount, or both, or perhaps the Givi latch itself? Most of the photos posted shows the Givi mount. Also, has anybody installed Freds safety pin on the Premier mount? FWIW I've been using the Premier mount, E-52 case, and Addmore Lighting, for 3 years and at least 20k miles without a single issue. I also stuff it with camping gear for 2 all the time.
That's a good question. It seems nobody knows exactly why the small number of Givi's decide to self eject. If I were to guess it would be for a number of different reasons.

In some circumstances people have messed around with the clearances in an attempt to de-rattle their boxes. This may have caused the box to not latch on fully.

In other cases folks may have become complacent about snapping the box onto the mount and maybe with a little bit of grit or contamination of the latch mechanism it doesn't fully latch?

Or, it is possible that, since the latch mechanism is merely a spring loaded tang which is not mechanically locked into place, when you hit enough (or a big enough) bump(s) maybe the latch springs back and releases?

It doesn't seem like it would be related to the mount used as there are no moving parts in the mount. I would imagine it would be pretty easy to adapt my highly complex clevis pin restraint dealio to any rack that you could drill a hole through. ;)

 
I have yet to hear of a Yamaha top case falling off at speed once they reinforced the bottom plate with steel. It is considerably more expensive but you get what you pay for... I would do it again.
+1 :good:
Have you guys owned both types? I have.

The Yamaha has far too small of a capacity inside for the outside size of it due to the double wall liner.

The Givi metal rack is more substantial, IMO. I trust it to carry that extra capacity that the Yamaha couldn't even fit

I also think the OE trunk is kind of ugly, but that is entirely subjective and you may feel the same about the Givis.

I would never go back to a Yamaha top box.

 
I have yet to hear of a Yamaha top case falling off at speed once they reinforced the bottom plate with steel. It is considerably more expensive but you get what you pay for... I would do it again.
+1 :good:
Have you guys owned both types? I have.

The Yamaha has far too small of a capacity inside for the outside size of it due to the double wall liner.

The Givi metal rack is more substantial, IMO. I trust it to carry that extra capacity that the Yamaha couldn't even fit

I also think the OE trunk is kind of ugly, but that is entirely subjective and you may feel the same about the Givis.

I would never go back to a Yamaha top box.
+1

Ok you hear of a Givi box ejecting for a unknown reason and all the sudden the Yamaha box is Wonder bread? How many broken Yamaha boxs have you seen posted on this Forum?

Each to their own but having backed out of a Yamaha box on my '10 after I saw it and a Givi, there is no comparison at all. A squared, undersized, under supported, and no lights. You have to be kidding or drunk on Yamaha Kool Aid.

With the Givi mounting support bracket, the Mono Key 52 that matches the '10's silver perfectly, the liner for the Givi, and the Add More lighting kit that adds running and brake, and turn signals to the Givi was cheaper than the Yamaha trunk and install at Purchase!

I will pin mine, and while I am at it I am going to pin the side cases too! Yes there have been reports of those coming off and that cure is the same as pinning the Givi trunk just different sizes for the side bags.

So each to their own but looking at all things good and bad on the rear box. the Givi won hands down in all categories, and to my eye it is far sleeker looking and I think would slip through air much better than the Yamaha rectangle.

Not a knock on Yamaha as a whole at all, but for a top box they cant compete with a Givi, especial with a color matched lid on the Givi, and awesome rear lighting. Even structurally.

Awww hell, your bike, put what you like on it!

 
I saw a guy drop a phone while trying to use it while riding a scooter.

Maybe he shoulda had a different phone.

Because it's the phone's fault, not his [mis]use of it, tight?

 
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