Going to plunk down for a used Wilburs shock...

[MCRIDER007]

So, Mike -- what is the spring weight for 110 newtons per mm (the one already installed on the shock)?

I think that was answered above by MCRider007, 615 pounds equals 110 newtons per mm.

Doh! But now that I've asked, I'm scratching my head, because . . .

By doing some quick interpolation and assuming there isn't some progressive or log function, something doesn't fit. If your two figures are correct, then whether done by interpolation or by using ratios, 110 newton meters per mm must equal roughly 630 pounds (between 628 and 635). No?

Let see if I can further confuse the question.

Spring rates are usually expressed in lb/in, N/mm, or Kgf/mm. Most conversion tables (and motorcycle owners service manuals) will show that 10 N/mm equals 1 Kgf/mm and when dealing with shock springs we normally use Kgf/mm to express the rate, so when Wilbers lists a spring as a "110" we assume they mean that it is a 11.0 Kgf/mm -- and when I talked to Klaus during that last Wilber group buy that was the "term" that he used (and the term I normally use).

However, the actual conversion rate from N/mm to Kgf/mm is not 10 to 1, 110 N/mm is actually equal to 11.2169 Kgf/mm (a difference of about 2 percent). The bottom line is that 110 N/mm is equal to 628.116 lb/in, but 11.0 Kgf is only equal to 615.97 lb/in...according to a conversion program I found on the Internet so it must be true.

Wilbers springs sometimes are lighter than stated so unless you test it.......

 

[Khunajawdge]

First of all, let me say "Happy Thanksgiving!", it really IS a blessing that we are all here and able to enjoy this phenomenal riding experience of ours! :yahoo:

Now on to my ride report as of noon today.

OK, I “sprung” for the Wilbers shock and front springs. It came in the original box.

The "stuff" looked crisp and clean upon arrival.

I measured the height adjustment at 10mm and lengthened the gap between the yolk and the nut to 15mm

Here is the rear set on the bike. I’ll be installing the front springs a little later in the Winter.

Absolutely a piece of cake to do (especially with Warchild's directions in FJR1300Tech).

Went on a 97 mile ride (RT) out to Creston and home. I didn’t eat at the Long Branch as the turkey was in the oven back at the hacienda.

CA. hwy. 229 begins in Creston, this is choice of proving ground. Saw a couple of other riders out on this day as well.

Sun was out occasionally, but the road was wet from recent rains over the past 2 days.

I couldn’t really get going like I wanted due to the absence of tread on my rear tire. Probably pushed it a bit more than safe (for me) though.

Now that I have swapped out the OEM rear shock at 44,600 miles, the place where I noticed the "new/used" shock most is in the front end, not the rear. The front seems to be “twitchier” if that term applies here? I notice that the Wilbers with 5,000 miles on it, is much harsher and quicker to turn in. In other words, it took far less work to point the bike and get it where I wanted it to go, but I have to keep sharp, to not over steer. When I went over a bump at speed, the bike came down quite quickly to fill the hole below, unlike the “worn out” OEM which would cause the bike to bounce up and down like an overstuffed chair, until it progressively quit or it would “yawn” back into shape. :boredom:

Basically. I have not yet played with the pre load adjuster or the damping/compression adjustment at all. I am curious on the damping/compression adjustment though(?), what it’s range is in terms of full turns (how many turns from dead soft to max hard?). The Fjr’s OEM shock only had a Hard and Soft setting. My ZG 1000 Concours’ OEM shock, had a 4 position pre load setting plus, I could air it up to 75lbs. When normal riding (single, not 2-up), I would decrease the preload to setting 2 and let the air out to 30 lbs. For a full load, I would air the rear shock on the Connie up to 70 psi and set the preload at 4. Now, this Wilbers has a twistable “full range” of adjustment, and at the moment I am not sure(?) where it is set from the top of it’s range or bottom? The adjuster is marked with a plus (+) or minus (-) which I will play with next time I ride (especially if I load the bike for a trip). I have a tendency to take way too much crap with me when I travel, and often bring most of it back wondering what the hell I was thinking in the first place?

Anyways on the positive handling side, I notice that the Wilbers that I have now (5,000 miles on it) is much harsher and quicker to turn in. So far (100 miles), I like the feel of my new shock. :cowboy:

 

[Jagermeister]

Sweet!

Go get a new rear tire, and keep living the dream!

 

[exskibum]

Very cool, George!

From the picture, it appears that you have the same rear shock as I do -- not the one with the additional compression damping (like O'Vale had). Unless there's another (non-remote) adjuster for compression damping on the rear shock, you only have rebound damping on the rear (the red knurled adjuster just above the height adjustment on bottom of shock). Off the top of my head, there are 22 clicks of adjustment on that. For loaded to gills or two up on my bike, I usually back that one off 4 clicks (18) from all the way stiff adjustment. One up, I back it out about 8 clicks (14).

Also off the top of my head, I believe the preload adjuster (the remote red knob hung from exhaust hanger) also has about 22 clicks of adjustment. I believe I use roughly the same adjustments on it (backed off 4 and 8) as I do on rebound damping.

In reality, I just messed with them enough to have written down what I liked best loaded and unloaded -- not that I was arbitrarily setting them the same. Whenever I change from one up to two up, or vice versa, I end up pulling out my sheet to remind me of my settings (I also have corresponding front fork settings). Ideally, once you get basic ride height set where you want it (since your shock length is adjustable), the truly proper preload would be set with the help of one other person for each weight circumstance (loaded, solo, two up, etc.), and that's what you'd write down.

Keep in mind that if you have the rear riding higher than you're used to (esp. relative to the front end), then you have changed the geometry in a manner that would explain its perceived change to be quicker into turns and "twitchier" as opposed to wanting to maintain a straight line. Get some new rubber on that bike (you KNOW I know the condition of your "slicks" ), and then you can do a better job of setting it up -- not to mention being able to enjoy the improved performance envelope more.

 

[Khunajawdge]

From the picture, it appears that you have the same rear shock as I do -- not the one with the additional compression damping (like O'Vale had). Unless there's another (non-remote) adjuster for compression damping on the rear shock, you only have rebound damping on the rear (the red knurled adjuster just above the height adjustment on bottom of shock). Off the top of my head, there are 22 clicks of adjustment on that. For loaded to gills or two up on my bike, I usually back that one off 4 clicks (18) from all the way stiff adjustment. One up, I back it out about 8 clicks (14).
Also off the top of my head, I believe the preload adjuster (the remote red knob hung from exhaust hanger) also has about 22 clicks of adjustment. I believe I use roughly the same adjustments on it (backed off 4 and 8) as I do on rebound damping.

Using this article Go Here, and what has been said above, I feel like I am going to be able to tune this shock to where I need it, with some tinkering around. It is already waaay better than I had imagined it could be.

Actually measured the rider height with a comparative yardstick and found out I was at 2" of static sag. I made an adjustment yesterday via the info in the url above on "How to adjust your rear suspension" on setting the rider height, and the improvement was huge (I am now at 20mm's of thread showing between the Yolk and the nut) which means I now have about 1 1/2 " of static sag when I load the bike with my weight solo (I am going to assume 4 1//2 inches of travel on this shock). This gave me more usable travel on the shock and I have adjusted the static sag to about 1/3 of its total travel. This proved to be a marked improvement on my ride today. I'm not sure it's perfect yet, but it is getting closer. With the info you provided above Rich, I will begin to play again tomorrow!

Thanks everbody! :drinks:

 

[Khunajawdge]

Rode the bike (solo) 32 miles today (RT). No adjustment necessary! :yahoo:

 

[FJRBluesman]

+1!!!

I also purchased a similar set up (Wilbers 640) from a member on the forum. I just received it Friday and installed it today. Took it for a small test ride, AWESOME compared to stock. I have to take it out on the twisties though.

The rider was about 15lbs heavier then me and rides with far more gear then I do so I don't think the springs will be an issue. It was also recently rebuilt.

Soon the fork springs will go in when I have a littel more time.