Hard to downshift

[Daddydukes]

Just got back from a wonderful 850-mile trip to the Indy GP. Bike ran beautifully, 2-up and loaded. I really love this bike. But I've noticed since getting home that it is becoming harder to downshift. By that I mean, it is taking significantly more pressure on the shifter to get into a lower gear. No change in noise associated with the shift. The only difference is the effort to gear down.

Has anyone else experienced this. No change at all in upshifting. Thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Keith

 

[SLK50]

Change your oil. Seriously.

 

[08FJR4ME]

I think I am going to start a log sheet for oil and which one helps the shifting the most.

So far the Yami 10-40 recommended oil seems the best. I haven't tried the Full Synth yet but I have some on the shelf for the next oil change. We will see how that does. Works better in the XR for sure.

 

[C&C]

Did you run through a lot of slop (i.e., rain, dust, mud). You may need to clean the shift lever pivot. There was another post about a stuck rear brake lever pivot that required cleaning and lubing. Something to consider anyway.

 

[colin]

Change your oil. Seriously.

In my limited experience, I would agree with this. I don't usually pay much attention to oil, and the long threads that debate it. Generally seems to all be 'good enough'.

But I changed oil at a new place, used their 'recommended' one that I didn't recognize, but was 'reassuringly expensive'.... and during my big tour that time, I noticed the same thing, bit harder to downshift. The biggest problem for me was finding neutral, especially coming from 2nd gear to neutral (what i normally do going to a stop).

Since then, I've tried out a more official Yammy shop, used something else and it's back to the normalness I'm used to.....

 

[Daddydukes]

I really don't think the oil is the issue. It was changed just before the trip, there may be 1,500 miles on the oil. Didn't ride through any bad weather. Rained one day while at the track, but again, the problem didn't show up til I got home.

Keith

 

[road runner]

How many miles do you have on the bike ?

Is it better or worse when hot ?

Does it shift hard both ways or just down shifting hard ?

The reason I ask is usually when it's time for an oil change it will shift hard both ways.

The reason I asked about mileage is mine showed signs of down shifting hard around 1500 miles and got worse to the point were when I pulled the clutch in when cold the bike would keep going. This turned out to be dry clutch plates. It was fixed by soaking the clutch plates in oil.

Don't want to turn this in to an oil tread, but I run Mobil 1 full synthetic bike oil and it does shift smoother both ways.

 

[Daddydukes]

I really don't think the oil is the issue. It was changed just before the trip, there may be 1,500 miles on the oil. Didn't ride through any bad weather. Rained one day while at the track, but again, the problem didn't show up til I got home.
Keith

Road Runner,

The bike just topped 5,000. Not many miles at all. As I said, oil was changed about 1,500 miles ago. Didn't get to ride much during the winter, so I had it changed when it warmed up. Still haven't been able to ride much except a couple trips. It's only becoming hard to downshift. Upshifting remains the same. Doesn't make much sense to me. Been wrong before, certainly will be again, I really don't think it's an oil issue.

Keith

 

[road runner]

I don't think it's an oil issue either.

I think it's a dry clutch issue, especially with the low miles, and the fact you just changed your oil.

If you do a search you will see many had the same issue with around the same miles you have.

my .02

A.C.

edit; The reason I mentioned syn. oil in earlier post was just to say it does improve shifting, but if you have a dry clutch it won't help that. It did not help my dry clutch.

 

[JuiceMcGoose]

Gotta do the "clutch soak". But you really don't need to actually soak the plates, just wipe them down good with oil. It does help to use a light cold weight oil, like synthetic Rotella 5W-40. If you don't have a 1/4" drive torque wrench you can get one from Harbor Freight for $20 if you bring in a print-out of the online ad. It doesn't take long to do, just remember there is a wire attached to a hole in the clutch drum holding in the last 2 plates in.

 

[Daddydukes]

Thanks everyone for your input. I suspected that I would find someone with similar experiences. Ride safe.

Keith

 

[raymond]

Dukes have you done anything to get this sorted yet or spoke to a Yamaha tech mate? I'm have similar problems with mine right now too, but the only solution I've read is the clutch soak. One of the guys on our forum did the soak thing and it didnt work. When I start my bike either hot or cold in 1st gear with clutch in the bike will jump forward hard. Have you experienced this? I have noticed though that when stationary and changing into 1st the bike goes clunk which most say is typical, but try doing this. Operate clutch lever and you may hear a whirring sound, similar to a thrust bearing noise on a motor car, wait 3-4sec and the noise goes away, then put the bike into 1st and notice how smooth it goes into gear, its bloody amazing. Sometimes when I downshift it feels like you are forcing the bike out of gear. Our models have had a clutch change apparently to make it softer on the fingers, but thats all I know so maybe thats got something to do with it. Please keep us informed as to how you went and if you got it fixed as some of us down under are being told by dealers that they've never heard of this, and really need a fix for this one. One tech guy I spoke to said it could be a high spot on the plates, and reckons that by simply pulling the plates apart in rotating them around may fix it, who knows, but this clutch is the worst one I've experienced. I've changed oils etc, currently using mobil 1 MC oil and still having problems. Good luck and please, please keep this alive, and I will let you know If we find the fix also down here. :scooter:

 

[mingo]

I'm trying to understand the "soak the clutch plates in oil" suggestion.

Doesn't this bike have a wet clutch and there should be oil in there? Please help me understand.

Signed:

from a guy who's been riding a bike with a dry clutch.

 

[madmike2]

I'm trying to understand the "soak the clutch plates in oil" suggestion.
Doesn't this bike have a wet clutch and there should be oil in there? Please help me understand.

Signed:

from a guy who's been riding a bike with a dry clutch.

Yes, the FJR has a wet clutch but it doesn't sit in a deep oil bath. As with most wet clutches the plates must be installed saturated or coated with oil.

There have been a few bikes delivered with the clutch plates "dry". Some bikes have been delivered with contaminated clutch plates....assuming it was some kind of assembly lube...but a foreign material nevertheless.

The cure is to disassemble the clutch pack, clean and re-soak the plates and then re-install. It has worked for those who have reported the problem.

 

[Daddydukes]

Dukes have you done anything to get this sorted yet or spoke to a Yamaha tech mate? I'm have similar problems with mine right now too, but the only solution I've read is the clutch soak. One of the guys on our forum did the soak thing and it didnt work. When I start my bike either hot or cold in 1st gear with clutch in the bike will jump forward hard. Have you experienced this? I have noticed though that when stationary and changing into 1st the bike goes clunk which most say is typical, but try doing this. Operate clutch lever and you may hear a whirring sound, similar to a thrust bearing noise on a motor car, wait 3-4sec and the noise goes away, then put the bike into 1st and notice how smooth it goes into gear, its bloody amazing. Sometimes when I downshift it feels like you are forcing the bike out of gear. Our models have had a clutch change apparently to make it softer on the fingers, but thats all I know so maybe thats got something to do with it. Please keep us informed as to how you went and if you got it fixed as some of us down under are being told by dealers that they've never heard of this, and really need a fix for this one. One tech guy I spoke to said it could be a high spot on the plates, and reckons that by simply pulling the plates apart in rotating them around may fix it, who knows, but this clutch is the worst one I've experienced. I've changed oils etc, currently using mobil 1 MC oil and still having problems. Good luck and please, please keep this alive, and I will let you know If we find the fix also down here. :scooter:

Raymond,

I have not done anything yet. Haven't had the chance and I've been down with a horrible cold. I have noticed the lurch you mention when starting the bike in 1st gear, but I don't know if that is anything unusual from other bikes I've had. And yes, start in neutral and shift into 1st and it is very clunky. I'll give your suggestion a shot. As I move forward with this I'll keep you posted. Please do the same as you work on a solution.

I will have to trust others experience with the clutch soak method and success, but it doesn't make sense to me. If it upshifts smoothly why would soaking the clutch plate make it downshift smoothly, and why show up now and not before?

Keith

 

[Jer]

I notice the hard downshift when I come to my first stop sign two blocks from my home. I just give the bike a little throttle with the clutch pulled in and it clicks right down. After riding for a mile or so the down shifting is not a problem. This may not solve the problem you have, but works for me.

 

[Nightshift]

Put fresh oil and a new filter on the bike. Ride it and if the problem is still there then tear the clutch apart.

JMO,

Mick

 

[madmike2]

Did you wear new boots? I know it sounds silly but a change in your normal footwear can make a difference.

 

[Daddydukes]

Nope, no new boots. Nothing was different. I consider a 1,000 to 1,500 miles to still be fresh oil, no other changes to the bike and it's not one of those things that happens right after start up. This is something that just came up after our 800-plus mile trip to Indy. No foul weather riding. The bike is clean. The bike runs great in everyother capacity. Just requiring more pressure to downshift.

Keith