Headlight bulb replacement

[H-Town FJR]

You dont have to remove any plastic at all to change the bulbs...really quite simple once you've done it once or twice. It can be all done by "feel" with a little patience. Put your bike on the center stand. Turn your handlebar all the way to the left or right to change the bulbs. First thing to do is stick your hand down the side of the fairing and feel for the 3-prong connector. Once you have than in hand, pull is straight out from the bulb. Next thing is to feel for the rubber boot "tangs" (2 ears 180 deg. from each other), grab hold of one, and pull the boot off. Next thing is to un-hook the metal retaining clip that holds the bulb tight against the housing. It is a spring clip hinged type clip. You will feel the clip...on top, there is a "loop" that you will push DOWNward, that will un-hook it from the bulb and allow it to swing towards the gas tank and away from the bulb. Then you simply pull the bulb out. Get your new bulb, careful not to touch the glass, and re-insert it into the headlight housing, making sure to orient it properly in its base. Make sure the retaining clip is swung fully "open" to allow the bulb to go in properly. Once you have verified the bulb is in fully, swing the retaining clip across the base of the bulb, and push down on the top loop to "lock" it onto the bulb. Once this is done, get your rubber boot and center it over the bulb base, then push on and run your fingers fully around the edges to seal it. Finally, take your connector and plug onto the base of the bulb. Done. Hope this helps. Sorry I dont have pics to help ya out.Jay'04 FJR 1300

Thanks SC...had to replace the bulbs on my 05...using your steps I had both bulbs replaced in 15 minutes...and that was with me taking extra time to refer to your notes so I wouldn't f it up. Thanks!

 

[SouthernCruizer]

You dont have to remove any plastic at all to change the bulbs...really quite simple once you've done it once or twice. It can be all done by "feel" with a little patience. Put your bike on the center stand. Turn your handlebar all the way to the left or right to change the bulbs. First thing to do is stick your hand down the side of the fairing and feel for the 3-prong connector. Once you have than in hand, pull is straight out from the bulb. Next thing is to feel for the rubber boot "tangs" (2 ears 180 deg. from each other), grab hold of one, and pull the boot off. Next thing is to un-hook the metal retaining clip that holds the bulb tight against the housing. It is a spring clip hinged type clip. You will feel the clip...on top, there is a "loop" that you will push DOWNward, that will un-hook it from the bulb and allow it to swing towards the gas tank and away from the bulb. Then you simply pull the bulb out. Get your new bulb, careful not to touch the glass, and re-insert it into the headlight housing, making sure to orient it properly in its base. Make sure the retaining clip is swung fully "open" to allow the bulb to go in properly. Once you have verified the bulb is in fully, swing the retaining clip across the base of the bulb, and push down on the top loop to "lock" it onto the bulb. Once this is done, get your rubber boot and center it over the bulb base, then push on and run your fingers fully around the edges to seal it. Finally, take your connector and plug onto the base of the bulb. Done. Hope this helps. Sorry I dont have pics to help ya out.Jay'04 FJR 1300

Thanks SC...had to replace the bulbs on my 05...using your steps I had both bulbs replaced in 15 minutes...and that was with me taking extra time to refer to your notes so I wouldn't f it up. Thanks!

cool, glad it helped. I didn't even remember posting that original post. I dont know if the '13 (Gen III) is the same as the Gen I and II, but will post up again if in fact there is a difference.

 

[RadioHowie]

This zombie resurrection couldn't be more timely....

Just replaced BOTH bulbs in my '04...left low-beam went out Monday on the way to work. Would never have known if it wasn't for the mirror on the wall in my garage where I park. But it was fairly obvious in the reflection a bulb was out. Right low-beam went out sometime Tuesday either to or from work. Don't know which, but had no low beams according to the "magic garage mirror" when I got home.

Wednesday night, left high-beam sang its last, so I'm down to one high-beam. Still on when I got home Thursday night, but when I went out for burgers about an hour later, the right high-beam fritzed out when I cranked it up. SHIT!

Go hit the auto parts store to buy replacements. DAMN it was hard finding standard, non-overdriven H4 bulbs. Bought 2 for $19.50, took 'em home and stuck 'em in. Buy all the overpriced, half-life "specialty" bulbs you want, but base-model bulbs were a search. Weren't even in the same section as all the "farkle" bulbs!

Ten minute job...tops. But lost about a quart of blood from all the cuts and scratches forcing my XXX mitts into the nether regions of the front fairing. It's NOT a tough job, but tiny "girlie" hands can be a key to making the task simpler.

Doctors say I'll never play the piano again.

 

[redneckj]

The first thing I did to my 2012 was change the bulbs. I am very happy with the output of these bulbs. Color is really good, very white color as well.

https://www.amazon.com/CIPA-93443-Formance-Maximum-Intensity/dp/B00393NESK

 

[kamal]

Doctors say I'll never play the piano again.

Bet it won't stop you playing your organ.

 

[shewstring]

Someone asked if replacing the bulb on a 2013 Gen III is any different than the Gen II. I just did that deed this past weekend. What a royal PITA. I didn't have much luck taking off the 'panel's - took all the rivets out and screws, but things still felt bound - enough that I felt scared pulling on anything without it ending up costing me $$$$$. So...I just did the way you do on a Gen II, reach your hand up there, give it a good feel (oh...different scenario), feel blood run down hand, yell, dig in for some more. The right side is really tight no matter which way you turn the tire. The process is the same on both sides, wiggle the plug off, pull the rubber boot off the back of the lense, release the metal retaining spring, carefully wrangle the bulb out, reverse for the new one (careful not to to touch the glass with your hand - use alcohol to clean the bulb). The left side goes pretty easy. On the right side, I had trouble even getting the old bulb out, the spring kept closing in behind the bulb, same issue when putting the new one in. I ended up using a surgical forecips to hold the spring out of the way while using my other hand to get the bulb in. I ended up putting in some zXe Sylvania Silverstars in. The lighting is much stronger (and whiter) than OEM. Hopefully, they last a while as this is not something I want to do every year.

 

[RossKean]

You may like the light but not the lifetime of the enhanced-output bulbs. One recommendation is to lightly grease the rubber boot with a little silicone (dielectric) grease. It makes future removal of the rubber much easier.

 

[RadioHowie]

Someone asked if replacing the bulb on a 2013 Gen III is any different than the Gen II. I just did that deed this past weekend. What a royal PITA. I didn't have much luck taking off the 'panel's - took all the rivets out and screws, but things still felt bound - enough that I felt scared pulling on anything without it ending up costing me $$$$$. So...I just did the way you do on a Gen II, reach your hand up there, give it a good feel (oh...different scenario), feel blood run down hand, yell, dig in for some more. The right side is really tight no matter which way you turn the tire. The process is the same on both sides, wiggle the plug off, pull the rubber boot off the back of the lense, release the metal retaining spring, carefully wrangle the bulb out, reverse for the new one (careful not to to touch the glass with your hand - use alcohol to clean the bulb). The left side goes pretty easy. On the right side, I had trouble even getting the old bulb out, the spring kept closing in behind the bulb, same issue when putting the new one in. I ended up using a surgical forecips to hold the spring out of the way while using my other hand to get the bulb in. I ended up putting in some zXe Sylvania Silverstars in. The lighting is much stronger (and whiter) than OEM. Hopefully, they last a while as this is not something I want to do every year.

You may like the light but not the lifetime of the enhanced-output bulbs. One recommendation is to lightly grease the rubber boot with a little silicone (dielectric) grease. It makes future removal of the rubber much easier.

+1 to what RossKean wrote. 9-10 months, your Silverstars ARE gonna go "POP". They DO put out a better quality of light, but their lifespan-to-cost ration sucks large, green. Keep a spare pair handy...you're gonna need 'em.

 

[shewstring]

Someone asked if replacing the bulb on a 2013 Gen III is any different than the Gen II. I just did that deed this past weekend. What a royal PITA. I didn't have much luck taking off the 'panel's - took all the rivets out and screws, but things still felt bound - enough that I felt scared pulling on anything without it ending up costing me $$$$$. So...I just did the way you do on a Gen II, reach your hand up there, give it a good feel (oh...different scenario), feel blood run down hand, yell, dig in for some more. The right side is really tight no matter which way you turn the tire. The process is the same on both sides, wiggle the plug off, pull the rubber boot off the back of the lense, release the metal retaining spring, carefully wrangle the bulb out, reverse for the new one (careful not to to touch the glass with your hand - use alcohol to clean the bulb). The left side goes pretty easy. On the right side, I had trouble even getting the old bulb out, the spring kept closing in behind the bulb, same issue when putting the new one in. I ended up using a surgical forecips to hold the spring out of the way while using my other hand to get the bulb in. I ended up putting in some zXe Sylvania Silverstars in. The lighting is much stronger (and whiter) than OEM. Hopefully, they last a while as this is not something I want to do every year.

You may like the light but not the lifetime of the enhanced-output bulbs. One recommendation is to lightly grease the rubber boot with a little silicone (dielectric) grease. It makes future removal of the rubber much easier.

+1 to what RossKean wrote. 9-10 months, your Silverstars ARE gonna go "POP". They DO put out a better quality of light, but their lifespan-to-cost ration sucks large, green. Keep a spare pair handy...you're gonna need 'em.

Have you found any 'white' light bulbs that last? I sure hope I get more than that, I will report when they do go 'pop!'

 

[Top_Speed1]

The first thing I did to my 2012 was change the bulbs. I am very happy with the output of these bulbs. Color is really good, very white color as well.
https://www.amazon.com/CIPA-93443-Formance-Maximum-Intensity/dp/B00393NESK

I personally would stay far away from these (wanna-b HID) POS bulbs, maybe if it was easy to change out bulbs in the Feej I would say go for it (hey, I went these routes for years).

So 2 main reasons I find true BS in their ad;

1> They claim lumens (~2100) which is of true HID output amounts which means if they can get these kind of lumens from a 85w "filament bulb" and considering the lumens actually lost in the blue glass (acts as amber filter) I have to believe a shorter bulb life than any standard normal 55w Halogen. Plus who the hell is looking to draw this much power? Holy Schmamigmah!

2> They lie like a rug in their white color output and how it's achieved.

Product Features

• The best approximation to a full HID Xenon lighting system, Alfas can be installed on any vehicle without modifications, complications, or the excessive costs of an HID system
• Alfas emit a pure white light that is rated at 5500K, Standard headlight bulbs emit a yellow light between 2700K - 3300K, Alfas emit between 2100 lm - 2300 lm of light, Standard bulbs emit between 1000 lm - 1100 lm
• The maximum illumination and Ultra White color is due to the quality of materials, the unique combination of gases, and a special tungsten filament that is made in Finland, The bulbs are constructed using quartz and heat resistant 14 gauge wires
  
• The Alfas use a unique ceramic socket that helps isolate heat so there is no risk of an Alfas bulb damaging the vehicles existing electrical installations, Alfas operate using a 12 volt power supply and consume about 85 watts of power
• Simply remove your existing bulb and install the Alfas bulb, Experience plug and play brightness that will not melt or damage your vehicle's existing components, Don't Change... Evolve

In no way does any of those things contribute to the white(ish) output. Closest thing would be the "combination of gasses" but that is malarkey on a non gas illuminated bulb. On the maximum illumination part (claim), that is quite simple.. It's a friggen 85watt bulb! These are lies straight out and this is coming from somebody who has played this "game" before many of times (I'm known as the HID-King on several other forums). So go real (Premium Japanese) HID if you want these claims and with way less than half the current draw (35w).... or simply stay with the normal 55w stock halogens. The above Alfa bulb is straight out garbage, and any bulb that has to tint it's glass falls easily into this category.

Not being mean and sorry if it sounds blunt. I just would like to keep my friends here from going thru the blue bulb horror's that I once did. Plus! It's a son-of-a-B to swap out bulbs on our machines ....well at least for us big guys

So let's go light-one up!

 

[Harald]

Have you found any 'white' light bulbs that last? I sure hope I get more than that, I will report when they do go 'pop!'

I ran a set of Osram Nightbreaker bulbs where 1 bulb went 9 months and the other went 1year. I replaced them with Osram Nightbreaker PLUS bulbs that claim longer life. They are a nice bright white light and not that obnoxious blue tinted light. So far it's been 1.5 years with no failure. Hold on while I find some wood to knock on.

The extra light is worth it to me and I don't have huge mitts, so it's not that hard to change bulbs.

 

[RadioHowie]

 

[ionbeam]

I've been running Osram Silver Star 9003XV 3,200K bulbs and I'm happy with them. IMO they are brighter and have a better beam spread over stock bulbs. I have also been happy with their life, in fact they have lasted a lot longer than expected. They have been burning away for over 24k miles but I'm going to hedge my bets and buy replacements and stash them in the tail section 'cause you never know when darkness may suddenly set in.

 

[El Toro Joe]

I just installed the Piaa H4 Xtreme White Light Plus bulbs and like them...we'll see how long they last.

 

[someguy]

good stuff...

always learning something here...

i am curious on the consensus regarding longest lasting brightest conventional bulb

 

[RadioHowie]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Sorry, but I'm REAL sure that "longest lasting" and "brightest" are mutually exclusive in the context of headlight bulb discussions.

 

[someguy]

agree that's probably true.

but i have to assume, that among conventional bulbs, not the "super spanky voodoo majic bulbs" that there is a bright and reasonably long lasting option, at least a step up from factory bulb... no??

 

[900gc]

You may like the light but not the lifetime of the enhanced-output bulbs. One recommendation is to lightly grease the rubber boot with a little silicone (dielectric) grease. It makes future removal of the rubber much easier.

One recommendation is to lightly grease the rubber boot with a little silicone (dielectric) grease. It makes future removal of the rubber much easier.

Bingo!

 

[ionbeam]

...but i have to assume...that there is a bright and reasonably long lasting option, at least a step up from factory bulb...

One was suggested here. Everyone's MMV, but this is a pretty good match for a bright and reasonably long lasting option.

...One recommendation is to lightly grease the rubber boot with a little silicone (dielectric) grease. It makes future removal of the rubber much easier.

One recommendation is to lightly grease the rubber boot with a little silicone (dielectric) grease. It makes future removal of the rubber much easier...

I see a difference between using dielectric grease:

and silicon spray:

Dielectric grease leaves a residue which will collect dust and dirt in an area already proven to collect dust and dirt. Most critical though, it leaves behind a thick grease film (heck, it is grease, right?). You are supposed to handle the Hx family of bulbs by not touching the glass part because the OIL on your fingers can cause the bulb envelope to fail when it gets hot. Your bulb burns out the first time and you grease up the rubber piece during replacement then the next time you have a bulb failure the area where you need to blindly insert the new bulb is covered in grease. There is a better 'n average chance that the new bulb will contact the grease. I read a couple of posts a while back about how hard it was to get glass fragments out of the headlight buckets. Just sayin'...

Silicon spray will be almost dry by the time you get around to installing the rubber piece. The next time you need to change a headlight the spray will essentially be gone off of the rubber and parts. Stand away from the motorcycle and spritz the outer ring and inner hole where the headlight goes so the over spray doesn't get on the bike. I prefer to use silicon spray on my sparkplug boots too.

 

[Mount Rainier]

You dont have to remove any plastic at all to change the bulbs...really quite simple once you've done it once or twice. It can be all done by "feel" with a little patience. Put your bike on the center stand. Turn your handlebar all the way to the left or right to change the bulbs. First thing to do is stick your hand down the side of the fairing and feel for the 3-prong connector. Once you have than in hand, pull is straight out from the bulb. Next thing is to feel for the rubber boot "tangs" (2 ears 180 deg. from each other), grab hold of one, and pull the boot off. Next thing is to un-hook the metal retaining clip that holds the bulb tight against the housing. It is a spring clip hinged type clip. You will feel the clip...on top, there is a "loop" that you will push DOWNward, that will un-hook it from the bulb and allow it to swing towards the gas tank and away from the bulb. Then you simply pull the bulb out. Get your new bulb, careful not to touch the glass, and re-insert it into the headlight housing, making sure to orient it properly in its base. Make sure the retaining clip is swung fully "open" to allow the bulb to go in properly. Once you have verified the bulb is in fully, swing the retaining clip across the base of the bulb, and push down on the top loop to "lock" it onto the bulb. Once this is done, get your rubber boot and center it over the bulb base, then push on and run your fingers fully around the edges to seal it. Finally, take your connector and plug onto the base of the bulb. Done.
Hope this helps. Sorry I dont have pics to help ya out.

Jay

'04 FJR 1300

This sure helped me doing the replacement for the first time. The right side was the one that was out so I attacked that side. Stumbled around a bit trying to get the clip figured out, however, your write-up convinced me it could be done. This was actually a dry run. I had the bulbs changed out by a Tech at 56,733 miles. On my recent long trip, the the right one burned out in Idaho at 112,098 miles. I had the old original ones and practiced with one of those until the new ones arrive.

Thanks for your input regarding the switch-out.

Keep Going!