heated gear for 2 up riding

[1Gifford]

New 2015a owner. wanting to get setup for riding this fall or on cool mornings.

probably only run heated jacket liners. Can 2 Gerbing leads be run directly from the battery?

Is the wireless controller the best way to go?....and I assume you need to have 2. One for each jacket.

 

[jayke]

If you are going to use a heated liner, you will probably want heated gloves and socks too, I never use just my liner, always use my gloves too, Use my heated socks when it's really cold.

You'll need two controllers, one for each set of gear. Get dual controllers, I never have the liner and gloves at the same setting.

Might want to look at Warm and Safe as an alternative to Gerbing.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Yep. If you're going to do it, do it right. Heated gear rules.

 

[Richouse]

To answer your questions... yes, 2 leads can be run from the battery.

I don't have wireless but wish I did. You will have a wire between the controller and the liner so I couldn't see spending the extra $ on wireless. But I wish I had now.

If the only thing you will have is 2 liners then yes you can get away with 1 controller because the controller has 2 channels on it. But as soon as you want to add something else (gloves or socks) you will need another controller (assuming you are riding 2 up).

 

[SunRider]

The Firstgear dual wireless controller works great for our two Gerbings jacket liners. I have the power module under the seat. Have the remote velcro'd to the clutch master.

Rarely run my Gerbings gloves, but have combined them with my liner on a single control. They ran cooler than I might otherwise select, so I supplimented with the grip heaters.

Of course the math for max safe usage of power settings or any gear combo is on the user.

 

[MrZappo]

The math is based on reserve capacity which is different depending on the model year/generation.

2 people with full heated gear is likely overloaded.

If you are going to do any if this and will be running a lot of gear, you really need a volt meter to determine when you "tip the scales" and start discharging the battery.

It would not be apparent until you were possibly stranded somewhere otherwise.

 

[deagle]

What you "need" is purely based on each individual. My wife uses her heated vest way sooner than I need to. I find on the very coldest of days the heated vest makes a world of difference. Keeping the core warm also benefits the hands and feet. I recently purchased heated gloves also (big Tourmaster Synegy sale and I bought backup vests for wife and I as they are THAT good). I have yet to use the gloves yet because the heated vest makes such a difference, and quite frankly I don't want to mess with more wires going down my sleeves when the heated vest and heated grips are working just fine.

Your needs may vary. I would suggest starting with the heated vest/coat and see what your needs are from there.

 

[Mr_Canoehead]

Might want to look at Warm and Safe as an alternative to Gerbing.

+1 - I have Gerbings today but my next buy will be Warm n Safe. They also manufacture Firstgear heated gear (but not Powerlet).

It is pretty unlikely that two people will have their heated gear full on after initial warmup, so I doubt that reserve capacity will be an issue. I run heated jackets on me and the pillion (wife or daughters) and never had an issue. Best to get a voltage meter to be sure, though.

 

[Brodie]

Just a side note here...

If you are planning on heated gear for the both of you, the draw down will be substantial when the heat is turned up to full. If you currently have one of the new Lithium Iron batteries like the Shorai, consider going back to the OEM technology battery. The Shorai battery has a standing voltage threshold of 13.3 volts, that's a full .5 volt greater than the standard battery. That means you have a half of a volt less usable capacity to drive the high wattage demand accessories. When you add auxiliary lighting to the mix if may draw enough current to drop below this threshold, enough that the battery will actually be discharging as you are riding down the highway.

Seriously consider adding a volt meter on the dash and connect it directly across the positive and negative battery terminal - fused of course. If you see it getting near the batteries no load standing voltage, it's time to start managing the power draw and turn something down - or off.

Brodie

 

[1Gifford]

ok Thanks guys. I will look into the voltage meter. Anyone know of a good one.

I figure I just as well run all the wires at the same time.

 

[Mr_Canoehead]

I like this guy's stuff: https://www.ebay.com/sch/gammatronixlimited/m.html Lots of people like the Datel unit but I don't need the numbers, just the colors.

 

[MrZappo]

DROK Micro LCD Digital DC 7.5-19.99V 2 Wires 4 Digit Monitor Tester Volt Testing Module Panel with Blue Back-light for Automotive Car Electromobile Battery Checking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1CW7FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BGEnzbA70MD4K

 

[SLK50]

That thing is huuuge!

Shop around, especially on eBay and Amazon, for

one about half that size for mounting on a bike.

 

[MrZappo]

I mounted mine on the face of my tank bag. I only use it for long distance. Works out great and easy to read. I would not use that model if I were cutting it into the bike plastics. Your right. It would be way to big for that.

I've found it to be very accurate and reliable for a cheap piece of crap.

 

[Hammer Down Brown]

I have this one mounted in the cowl that goes over top of the battery and it works very well.

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Digital-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B010HM43RQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496778902&sr=8-6&keywords=marine+voltmeter

 

[Biquer]

My Powerlet jacket uses less juice than any of my previous heated gear, as seen on my voltmeter. It also heats up instantly.