Hella FF50 / Fuzeblock

[0Face]

Hi,

I'm an electrical novice but I just ordered Tracy Martin's Book CLICK to help my education. I'm not a complete knucklehead. I'm pretty good taking things apart and putting them back together again. I've done the TBS, plugs, etc. I've had my laptop apart to clean out the dust from the fan, and solder on a new power jack. I got that back together. I'm not sure why they needed those three extra screws though. I could of saved them some money.

I'm hoping I didn't miss the answers to my questions, I searched all over the Forum. If i missed them just point me to the thread. :huh:

OK, I'm installing the hella FF50's w/garauld's brackets (which are awesome along with his luggage rack).

I'm going to use the FuzeBlock so I can add more stuff later. I plan on using a DPDT switch for the on-off-on w/high beam configuration.

To the FuzeBlock I'm going to run the VDC(?) power from the battery, with a 30A fuse near the battery. I'll probably take the VT (switched?) power from a tail light (closer to where I want to mount the Block). The light setup will be powered when the bike is on via the FuzeBlock. I'll tap into the highbeam to power the lights when the DPDT is switched that way.

The lights are 55watts each and the output of a single FuzeBlock out shouldn't be over 10A. Correct me if I'm wrong but 110W/12V = 9.17A right?

Sound OK so far?

I'm not quite sure how to connect it all together to the DPDT switch. Do I have to run it all through the Hella relay? I looked at this thread CLICK but it's still a little confusing. I found this thread too CLICK. But I'm still a little stumped.

The diagram of the switch is helpful in the first link but I need a little more explanation of the relay and how it relates to what I'm trying to do.

I know some of you are willing to speak a little slower and louder.

I'm planning on taking a ton of pictures so I can post it all up.

Oh, and a little advice on what to look for when buying a good voltmeter.

Please, Thank you.

 

[Silent]

I'f I'm understanding you correctly, you're trying to wire in a bypass switch so you can kill the hellas even tho they are tied into your high beams? If that's what you're trying to accomplish, put the switch on the signal wire (the one that triggers the relay) that way your switch won't wear out prematurly from the extra draw the of the FF50s.

You should have a signal wire (+12volts) and a ground wire hooked up to your relay. That triggers an electro magnet inside the relay to make the larger contact. The FF50's hot wire goes into the relay from the battery or fuse block, and then out to the lights from a different post on the relay (I don't recall the #'s atm). I run mine thru a relay and a 10a fuse in my BlueSea and haven't had a problem. I picked up the signal from the high beams.

Hope that helps. I'm sure someone will be along shortly to explain it better.

 

[AFCJER]

I've been reasearching the same thing. Found a lot of info here & even more info here about ways to wire the lights.

I'm looking forward to hearing how yours turns out. I work in Niles so if you need help making things smoke go together I wouldn't mind helping out either.

For the volt meter I think the datel is the most common.

https://www.digitalmeter.com/

Good luck.

 

[0Face]

Essentially I want it the DPDT switch to be set up so the Hella's can be on independent of the high beam or on with the high beam or completely off.

I just found this from Warchild, it's a quote from another thread:

Easy solution.....
If you are in a situation where you can run the Solteks, then obviously, you are in a position to run high beams anyway, no?

So just wire the Soltek relay such that when you hit the high-beam switch as normal, the Solteks fire off.

Even better: install a heavy-duty, double-pole, double throw, center-off toggle switch, with the signal wire for the Soltek relay connected to the center poles.

One side is connected to a hot-lead, the other is connected to your high beam.

Throw the toggle switch to your high-beam setting. Now your Solteks light off when you hit your stock high-beam switch, which meets your criteria of not having to remove your hand away from the grip. The Solteks extinguish when you flip back to low-beam setting.

The other toggle switch setting keeps the Solteks lit off regardless of high-beam/lo-beam setting.

Here's your schematic:

That is what I'm looking to do with the Hella's. I'm not clear how the relay relates to the setup.

I meant a voltage tester not a voltmeter sorry.

I'm having a garage day on Saturday. I posted it over in the midwest thread. Your welcome to come on by and watch/help. There will be some guys from the forum there too.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Sherman]

I believe you are limited to 10 amps on each Fuzeblock circuit whereas the FF50 used to ship with a 25 amp fuse. I am no electrician, but you had better check it out before powering up.

 

[0Face]

I believe you are limited to 10 amps on the Fuzeblock whereas the FF50 used to ship with a 25 amp fuse. I am no electriction, but you had better check it out before powering up.

The lights are 55 watts each for a total od 110 watts. If I remember correctly Watts = Volts * Amps. So, Watts/Volts = Amps. Therefore 110/12 = 9.17.

I think that's right. .

 

[Silent]

The lights are 55 watts each for a total od 110 watts. If I remember correctly Watts = Volts * Amps. So, Watts/Volts = Amps. Therefore 110/12 = 9.17.
I think that's right. .

Couldn't tell you if the math is right or not, but I've got many hours of burn time on a 10 amp fuse for my FF50's running thru my BlueSea B)

 

[AFCJER]

That set up is the one I was leaning towards. Regarding the relay I just have a basic understanding of how they work. Hope fully you'll get some info from some others here today or you'll have some one show up tommorow with experince.

I've always used a multimeter for testing voltage. I can bring it by tomorrow if you haven't bought one already.

Hopefully I'll see you in the morning. If not good luck with all your projects.

 

[eg23232]

I think I'm having the same conundrum...

First of all, the diagram that comes with the Hellas doesn't explain the wiring easily....well at least to me anyway.

So, if I wire the Hellas through a switched circuit on the Fuzeblock, do I still need the Hella relay? And I think I'm looking for the same option as Oface....Hella's switched independently of headlights, yes?? Or just independent of high beams??

 

[Geezer]

VDC(?)

VDC or, more specifically 12VDC= 12 volts direct current.

Oh, and a little advice on what to look for when buying a good voltmeter.

Meters are inexpensive and reliable. You want a multi-meter so that you can use it for ohms (check for continuity) as well as voltage.

Look for one that has a digital display that is large and bright enouogh for you to see it easily.

I like to use alligator clamps whenever possible, so a meter that includes these as accessories to the leads are a plus.