Hello from Milwaukee~~I am in over my head and need help please!!

[nunia720]

Hello everyone, I am apologizing in advance for the length of this post, but I am loosing my mind trying to sort through information to make sure I don't kill myself or anyone else while riding my yet to be named sexy Mama. Honestly,  I was unaware that such a machine even existed until 3 days ago. I was looking to upgrade and ran across a crazy good deal on my girl. So I said what the hell!

Unaware of the fact that I was purchasing the equivalent of a super car!! 

Disclaimer: For all intents and purposes I am on my 3rd season of riding. On a Ninja500.......coupled with the occasional Harley if a buddy wants to switch for awhile. So I definitely have my training wheels on!!!! At this point I wish there was a way to teleport the bike to a Freeway or fast pace two lane highway. I am more than confident there and smiling from ear to ear the whole time. City riding.....another story and another topic actually. The purpose of this Thread is to kindly ask for help in getting my machine ready for Sturgis, and by that I mean I am riding her from Milwaukee to there.

Stats are: 2003 w/42000 miles. I bought it from the 2nd owner, a 70 year old Gentleman and he has had it since 2006 at which point it had 5000 miles on it. Sadly the only reason he is selling is he was diagnosed with Leukemia in April and got out of the hospital 45 days ago. He's on the mend but his immune system is shot. He was religious about oil changes every 3000 miles coupled with that was final drive oil change. Dog bones have been greased according to him but never repacked. The CCT is the original as far as he knows too. He couldn't recall when brake fluid and coolant was changed but that really doesn't matter as I will change all fluids anyways. Oh, and the valves haven't been checked by him either.What can wait until after Sturgis and what needs immediate attention. It needs tires for sure, Metzlers are on there now and he thought they were new last season but doesn't know how many miles are on them.....Last year? The life of the bike basically averaged 2500 miles a year. Please tell me that's not the typical life span of tires for her!! Unless this guy is Ghost Riders Pops, I am missing something. Again, I will do all fluids. What tires should I get? I weigh a whopping 155 lbs and am 6' tall. I'll adjust suspension to my weight and until I am far more comfortable on her I will be easy. Thats not to say I won't get loose on the highway and semi straightaways....I am already comfortable just from riding her home hitting triple digits, doing rapid braking, swerving while braking @ speed and trying to downshift for brakes. Which brings up another question, where is too high in the revs to downshift and lock the back tire up?? She handles what my Ninja doesn't in that regard without breaking a sweat!! Man oh man I'm going to really enjoy her company I believe.Farkles: Right now looking for long distance so keep that in mind. Also cheapest. Actually not so long distance, because only my Brother is riding in our crew, the rest are trailering and he's got a 05 883 Sportster with a **** stock peanut tank so I am anticipating lots of breaks!!! 3 fill-ups to my 1 on the Ninja is what I'm use to.I'm sure you all get the point, I need help here. I tried searching best tires and all I really could find was a year old thread w/lots of bickering. P4GT's ...I found some Pirelils cheap but then the back tire was no longer available. They have em' in a 190 though??? I really need help here with the tires and understanding considering my riding style. Which will be a little to excesively spirited at times on the Highways when it is safe. But the majority will be in the city where I believe the caggers and potholes have conspired to kill all of us on two wheels!! So anything that can help me with making sharp right/left hand turns from stop signs. Besides parking lot practice of course!! Which, by the way I still do on the Ninja a couple times a week~~I can whip the Ninja around the city like a damn pro but let me tell ya.....2mm too much of a twist on the throttle on the FJR sends me to warp frickin speed!! Which in turn makes me forget everything I am suppose to be doing like looking and aiming my chin where I want to go. Instead I find myself doing everything I am not suppose to do, mainly target fixation. I mean I can drive a R6 and a Harley around the city just fine but I have never experienced anything like these remarkable machines.......there's a reason I have never rode my buddys Busa......they scare the hell outta me!!! Now I basically own one but 100% more comfortable. Crazy, but crazy in a good way....I love the hell out of this Bike and really hope she is not outside of my wheelhouse to handle. So anything you all could suggest to help is more than appreciated!!

I know, I am asking alot everyone, especially w/out Bike ****!!! I'll attach my new machine to this and promise to take pics while in Sturgis, maybe even video. Plus I do my own wrenching on everything so in the future I will hopefully  be able to help instead of being so frickin needy, LOL. Again, I thought I was going to pick up like a Civic si or a Eclipse GT......not a McLaren. Crazy insane fast machine~~~~

 

[RossKean]

Do the CCT, valve check and coolant change when you have a chance - makes sense to do the coolant/plugs/CCT and valve check at the same time.  "Dogbones" don't get grease but the three bearings in the relay arm do.  The front one is the most difficult to access - a few threads on it.

Can't answer how high is too high revs for downshifting without breaking the tire loose - too many variables but nothing to worry about.  Easily handled.

Tires - far too many choices and opinions.  Tires will get you somewhere between 4000 and 12000 miles - depends on what tires, weather conditions, road surfaces and (most important) how you ride.  (What Metzelers are on it now?)  Current favorites for reasons of price to handling to longevity seem to be (in no particular order) - Michelin PR4, Michelin Road 5, Dunlop Roadsmart 3, Pirelli Angel GT 2 etc.  Read the threads and just get what feels good.  (Some even favor Continentals or Shinkos - mostly price)  You will develop your own preferences.  I think I have tried most of them over the years.  You don't need a 190/55 (180/55 is standard).  The 190s are typically more expensive but will make the speedo a little more accurate.

The FJR is a long way from a Ninja 500 but should be manageable.  It is pretty well behaved on the throttle.  The biggest difference is in the weight, not the power in terms of getting used to it.  For ergonomics, consider aftermarket seat as #1.  Might look at windshields too.

Enjoy the bike and welcome.

 

[mcatrophy]

Learn that the FJR doesn't need its engine revving like a Ninja. It will pull strongly from quite low rpm, for normal city riding 1500 is quite adequate at the low end, mine rarely gets above around 2500. Quite sufficient to deal with normal traffic.

Tyres: a dangerous topic on this Forum, likely to be pushed into the nether regions of the NEPRT section. However, be aware that the FJR is very particular about its front tyre. Some will never work well, some will become 'orrible when part-worn. For what it’s worth, I use Bridgestone BT023 or T30. Work well throughout their life, I get around 9000 miles on a front. The rear isn't as sensitive, I tend to use similar brand and type as the front. There is no need to match brand and type, it's just that I get on well with these. The life of the rear depends very much on your right hand. I generally get around 6000, though I usually change earlier if going on a long trip.

 

[hppants]

Welcome to the madness.  Agree with Ross and Mac, tires are quite a subjective topic.  My take?  You can't have your cake and eat it too.  The FJR is a big ole heavy pig with a crap ton of torque and if you want to play, ya gotta pay.  She'll eat tires like potato chips, man.  Gobble 'em up and want more.  If you ride her reasonably sanely, expect about 7,500 out of the rear and maybe 8,500 miles out of the front.  IMHO, the Dunlop Roadsmart 3 and the Michelin PR4GT are the best bang for the dollar.  But make no mistake, this bike will eat the rubber off the wheels fast.

As Ross indicated, your valve check is way past due and I'd do that now for sure.  There are a few threads here and there to show you some tricks - for example, if your valves need re-shimming, don't "remove" the camshafts from the cam chain, just zip tie them and re-shim one cam at a time by just scooting it aside.  A few Gen 1 bikes had problems with the OEM cam chain tensioner - the new superceded part will fix that - cheap insurance for sure.  Good flush of the coolant, blow out the air filter (or replace), and a throttle body sync - good to go with the motor.

Also, plan to lubricate your relay arm.  Don't take anyone's word on that - you gotta remove it to inspect it, and you just as soon clean it up and lubricate it by then.  Again, plenty of good tips on this job.  Personally, I don't "hang" the bike for this - I support it on the front forks and the rear pegs.  I've got some pictures of that here somewhere.

Need to lube all of your pivot points (shifter, handles, rear brake pedal, etc.

You can look up on youtube how to determine the date code of the tires for information.  I wouldn't leave for Sturgis on anything but new tires anyway.

You certainly need to flush your brakes and clutch hydraulic systems.

Finally, despite your experience, do not become over confident on your new steed too quickly.  There is something about moving to a liter bike that demands a higher level of respect.  Parking lot practice is a great idea.  Also, choose your times wisely to loosen her up and enjoy the power.  When I bought my first FJR (my first liter bike BTW), I had almost 50,000 miles under my arse.  Two weeks after I bought it, in an unbelievable act of shear stupidity that looking back was some time in the making - I crashed.  I walked away and repaired the bike, but that day taught me to respect the FJR the very hard way.  Don't be stupid like I was.....

 

[HotRodZilla]

Do NOT, leave on a long trip with used tires on the bike. Many have tried and failed. Heat, speed, road surface, weight, tire compound, tire design and the phases of Jupiter put tire life all over the place. If you want to buy tires while on the road, do what you want. If you want to make a trip without worrying about it put new tires on before you go.

As said above, there are lots of options. I really like running the 190/55s. I like that my speedo is closer to true. I really like the Bridgestone BT30 GTs. I just got back from a 4500 mile trip on Dunlop Roadmsart 3s and I don't know that I'll buy them again. They stuck really well, but if I would have been 2-up, I don't think they would have made the trip. Be sure you buy sport touring tires. Not sport tires and not touring tires.

What I mean is, if you buy Michelin Pilot Power tires, you will run out of tire quickly. If you buy the Bridgestone Battle Ax sport versions, they'll stick, but only for about 2k miles. If you buy cruiser or GoldWing tires they may not have the stick you want. Make sense??

On a long trip like this, find a way to hydrate. Many use CamelBaks which are super convenient. 

Don't do oil changes every 3k unless you like wasting money. Yamaha recommends every 4k and many of us do it every 5k. No one has ever had an oil related issue that hurt the FJR because they want an extra thousand or more between oil changes. 

The rest of it? Twist the throttle and have fun. The rest will come with time and reading up here. Just be careful, you CAN get in trouble in 2nd gear. Haha!

 

[nunia720]

Thank you everyone!! New tires and all fluids are definetly happening this week before the trip. I am debating whether or not I'm going to do the CCT or wait on that. The valves have to be done anyways and I am deffinetly waiting on that. 

 

[BigOgre]

You got a lot of good advice above.  How much of it you take is of course up to you.  That would also include how much work you're going to choose to do before your trip or what you'll leave for afterwards.  Whatever you choose though my added advice would be to stop working on the bike a good week or so before you leave and then call it good.  From that point until the time you leave go take a couple of multi-hour shake-down rides and make sure there're no surprises.  If you do find something funky that buffer will leave you time to sort things out.  That week will also give you a cushion should you break or lose something while doing any of your planned work.

 

[Ludwig61]

I really like running the 190/55s. I like that my speedo is closer to true.

The Pirelli Angel GTs in stock size ran my '05 speedo at true at highway speeds.  They also took less effort to start a turn, compared to the Michelin PR3 and PR4, and Continental Road Attack 3 that I've had.  Next change I'll be trying the Pirelli Angel GT II, hoping they are not far from their predecessor.

 

[HotRodZilla]

The Pirelli Angel GTs in stock size ran my '05 speedo at true at highway speeds.  They also took less effort to start a turn, compared to the Michelin PR3 and PR4, and Continental Road Attack 3 that I've had.  Next change I'll be trying the Pirelli Angel GT II, hoping they are not far from their predecessor.

Huh...Because the standard percentage that EVERY FJR's speedo is off from the factory does not let that happen, not even with the 190/55s. You must have the one FJR from the factory that is different than all the rest. Cool!

 

[art miller]

Huh...Because the standard percentage that EVERY FJR's speedo is off from the factory does not let that happen, not even with the 190/55s. You must have the one FJR from the factory that is different than all the rest. Cool!

Ditto on ^^^^^. My 2014 was 6 mph fast with the OEM 180/55 rear tire. When I went to Michelin Road 5 190/55 the speedo was dead on with my GPS. It was an exact match with the road side flashing speed signs at construction zones. Perhaps my imagination but the 190 seems to make the bike turn in with less effort.

 

[Ludwig61]

Huh...Because the standard percentage that EVERY FJR's speedo is off from the factory does not let that happen, not even with the 190/55s. You must have the one FJR from the factory that is different than all the rest. Cool!

The Angel GT is the only model of tire that has read true out of the four different sets I've had.  All of the others were the standard "faster on the speedo" than GPS.

 

[bgross]

Welcome to the madness and congratulations on your new steed. May you enjoy many, many,(s)miles together.

It is encouraging to read someone recognize the frightening potential for “unintended consequences” that this beauty can be in the hands of an inexperienced or impulsive rider. Far better to have respect up front than regret on the back end! Your caution bodes well for a long and enjoyable riding career.

Enjoy!

 

[Knifemaker]

First thing I learned on this bike was to be very deliberate and precise on how I applied the throttle. I read about some installing a different throttle sleeve as they claimed the throttle was “twitchy” or abrupt.

     Never got that, just seemed one had to reprogram themselves because it didn’t work like other bikes. Bike has a lot or torque, you don’t really need to wind it out between shifts (unless you want to  )

   Honestly thought the FJR was, after setting it up to your own ergonomics, a perfect motorcycle.