Fontanaman
Robin Trower
Shucks if folks here give towelbit anymore help, somebody will buy him a 09 and sell it to him for less than what they paid for it!
Help me make decisions please
- Thread starter towelbit
- Start date
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Great advice all around. You won't do wrong picking any GEN FJR, as they all are reliable as a stone.
I'd go for the newest low mileage bike you find in your price range, preferably '08 or newer. Be patient as it's a buyers market and before you know it...the right bike will show up.
Happy hunting!
--G
I'd go for the newest low mileage bike you find in your price range, preferably '08 or newer. Be patient as it's a buyers market and before you know it...the right bike will show up.
Happy hunting!
--G
Hey Joe,
I will probably be there around 1 or 2 Friday. Thanks for the prospect. If you would like to meet up that would be great. I can PM my phone number to you if you're wanting to help me score a deal.
I will take all the help I can get. I have seen better offers on this forum than anything I was able to come up with on craigslist and a few local dealers. Also if someone wants to do what Fontanaman mentioned I have will have no objections. I will just question you sanity.Shucks if folks here give towelbit anymore help, somebody will buy him a 09 and sell it to him for less than what they paid for it!
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
No question. One of the prerequisites of membership of this forum is a distinct lack of sanity.
If you had any before you joined, it will rapidly disappear
RossKean
Well-known member
I've said it before and will say it again...
By all means, get the best deal you can! BUT, spend a little more to get what you want (within reason) rather than settle for something less while saving $1500!
Do a little bit of math and figure out the cost/mile difference between two bikes in your general range but $1500 apart. Assume 5 years of ownership and at 20,000 miles per year for a total of 100,000 miles. For the sake of the calculation, you should consider that there will be little residual value at the end. Start calculating with total fuel costs @ $3.50/gallon (or whatever you think the average will be over 5 years) @ 40 mpg. Insurance cost, two sets of tires/year, maintenance parts (brake pads, oil, coolant, plugs, oil + air filters), routine service allowance if you don't do it yourself (valve checks etc.), farkles, license/registration, inspections and a reasonable allowance for non-routine repairs.
Note: If you are riding less than 5,000 miles per year or you are keeping the bike less time, the result of the calculations is a little less compelling but you can add in a residual value when you sell it at the end of your period of ownership.
You will quickly find that a $1500 difference in purchase price pales into insignificance compared to the total when calculated in cost/mile for 5 years. This, of course, doesn't include road food or hotel accommodations when you start some serious touring.
A word of warning from someone who has completed this exercise. If you do the calculation, be prepared to give up riding all together but the numbers may make you feel a bit better about a higher initial cost for the bike.
In short, get what you want!
By all means, get the best deal you can! BUT, spend a little more to get what you want (within reason) rather than settle for something less while saving $1500!
Do a little bit of math and figure out the cost/mile difference between two bikes in your general range but $1500 apart. Assume 5 years of ownership and at 20,000 miles per year for a total of 100,000 miles. For the sake of the calculation, you should consider that there will be little residual value at the end. Start calculating with total fuel costs @ $3.50/gallon (or whatever you think the average will be over 5 years) @ 40 mpg. Insurance cost, two sets of tires/year, maintenance parts (brake pads, oil, coolant, plugs, oil + air filters), routine service allowance if you don't do it yourself (valve checks etc.), farkles, license/registration, inspections and a reasonable allowance for non-routine repairs.
Note: If you are riding less than 5,000 miles per year or you are keeping the bike less time, the result of the calculations is a little less compelling but you can add in a residual value when you sell it at the end of your period of ownership.
You will quickly find that a $1500 difference in purchase price pales into insignificance compared to the total when calculated in cost/mile for 5 years. This, of course, doesn't include road food or hotel accommodations when you start some serious touring.
A word of warning from someone who has completed this exercise. If you do the calculation, be prepared to give up riding all together but the numbers may make you feel a bit better about a higher initial cost for the bike.
In short, get what you want!
Fontanaman
Robin Trower
Nuts? Us here on the FJR forum nuts? A couple of years ago a forum member flew from the mid west to Phoenix, borrowed a second forum member's spare motorcycle and they road to LaPine Oregon to have a Ruben sandwich. There was about 35-40 other forum members at this event all to have a Ruben sandwich. To top it off the hotel hosting the event was 3/4 sold out within two weeks of announcing the event and this was 9 months before the event.I will take all the help I can get. I have seen better offers on this forum than anything I was able to come up with on craigslist and a few local dealers. Also if someone wants to do what Fontanaman mentioned I have will have no objections. I will just question you sanity.Shucks if folks here give towelbit anymore help, somebody will buy him a 09 and sell it to him for less than what they paid for it!
PS my two bits, in the price range noted, is a late model 08 or newer as the throttle issues were worked out of the Gen II by then. Those throttle issues in the early model Gen II's was very annoying to bordering on not safe during slow speed maneuvers. Second choice is a 05 Gen I.
El Toro Joe
FYYFF
The jerky throttle thing on the 06 was not an issue for everyone, definitely something you could overcome/get used to. I put over 50k miles on my 06 without any issues. I did put a G2 throttle tube on, only because I got it for a great deal on ebay. I would not let that be a deal breaker.
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Having rebuilt some old bikes I have gotten cheap, I've learned sometimes it's best to spend the extra money if you can for the better bike. The cost of parts, time, and sometimes stress adds up quick. That $1500 is often gone when you buy all new tires, bearings, lube, brakes, and whatever else it may need.
I feel that may be something I can get used to, but you can only try to find out. Having owned a street triple, z1000, and 426 supercross, jerky bikes with loads of torque have kinda been my thing.
RossKean
Well-known member
My '07 is a bit jerky but I have gotten used to it. Originally, it had a power commander on it which helped smooth it out a bit but I paid for it in significantly poorer fuel mileage. I ended out removing the PC after I had the bike for a year or so.
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Don't let the herky-jerky throttle on '06 & '07 models scare you away. If you come across a screaming deal on one, take it. Once you're used to the response , it's easily overcome with a practiced hand and well adjusted throttle cables. Some '07s though, seem to be much worse than others.
I rode my '06 55K (with no intention on selling) before I stumbled upon a too-good-to-be-true deal on a '09. Jumped on it and as they say...the rest is history.
--G
I rode my '06 55K (with no intention on selling) before I stumbled upon a too-good-to-be-true deal on a '09. Jumped on it and as they say...the rest is history.
--G
It's still winter and there will be later model FJR's coming to market at prices you can handle. Go for an 08 or later. Also look for low mileage and no damage. Be patient, something good will come along. Keep the powder dry!!
infrared
Well-known member
- Joined
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Towelbit,
My $.02 . . . Since dollars count there, I'd say go with a good 2008. That's what I bought, but newer would be good, as well. You should have a fair selection available there before Spring. It would help if you are willing to ride it or haul one home with a trailer or truck, maybe 100~200 miles. Any older versions can let you in for some "early" design flaws, although most of those issues can be tamed, anyway. Any newer units will probably just cost more money. The Yamaha mothership (1-800-962-7926) can tell you if all recalls are done, for any year bike by VIN. They can also give you the mileage readings, for when the recalls were done, so you would be less likely to be fooled by false "low-mileage" claims. CarFax and similar history checks are not foolproof, but any help is better than no help. You should favor the bike that comes with good maintenance records, and receipts for any upgrades. Your state DMV may have a downloadable Bill of Sale form to help you hit all the bases.
There are good buys out there. Most newspapers have searchable want ads, and may even send you an email when a new ad matches your needs. Craigslist, Cycle Trader, and other local bike selling papers do on-line ad searches, also, but for all of them, it will be Buyer Beware. Avoid any tricky financing deals; just walk away if it is not cash on the barrelhead, with a clean title, being sold by the bike owner. Do not give anybody money so they can go pay off their bike loan, because it may be a scam. Check the ID cards of the seller, the name on the title, VIN numbers, et c.
Good hunting!
Infrared
My $.02 . . . Since dollars count there, I'd say go with a good 2008. That's what I bought, but newer would be good, as well. You should have a fair selection available there before Spring. It would help if you are willing to ride it or haul one home with a trailer or truck, maybe 100~200 miles. Any older versions can let you in for some "early" design flaws, although most of those issues can be tamed, anyway. Any newer units will probably just cost more money. The Yamaha mothership (1-800-962-7926) can tell you if all recalls are done, for any year bike by VIN. They can also give you the mileage readings, for when the recalls were done, so you would be less likely to be fooled by false "low-mileage" claims. CarFax and similar history checks are not foolproof, but any help is better than no help. You should favor the bike that comes with good maintenance records, and receipts for any upgrades. Your state DMV may have a downloadable Bill of Sale form to help you hit all the bases.
There are good buys out there. Most newspapers have searchable want ads, and may even send you an email when a new ad matches your needs. Craigslist, Cycle Trader, and other local bike selling papers do on-line ad searches, also, but for all of them, it will be Buyer Beware. Avoid any tricky financing deals; just walk away if it is not cash on the barrelhead, with a clean title, being sold by the bike owner. Do not give anybody money so they can go pay off their bike loan, because it may be a scam. Check the ID cards of the seller, the name on the title, VIN numbers, et c.
Good hunting!
Infrared
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vtwinn
Well-known member
If you would do a fly and ride , here is one near me in NC,
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/mcd/4836824334.html
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/mcd/4836824334.html
Blind Squirrel
Well-known member
If you buy a bike with ABS insist on testing the ABS. Many of us have had the ABS unit fail. Replacing it will set you back ~$2K.
Also, if you get a bike with 25+K on it plan on doing something about the suspension.
Also, if you get a bike with 25+K on it plan on doing something about the suspension.
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