Help me with my L/D winter FJR project

[Warthog34]

Thanks for the Krista pics. Very helpful. I'll be wiring mine up this weekend.

 

[TriggerT]

I still can't get the feature where the horn turns the Krista's on high to work, so if someone figure out which wire you are supposed to tie into, please let me know. I tried calling Clearwater, and i have to say they weren't all that helpful. I could have figured out "use a sensor on the wires to see which one has a current when the switch is depressed" all on my own. In my case, both wires that are attached to the horn on the clutch side of the bike will cause the lights to be on high all of the time if I tie into them with the wires that were labeled "Horn" on the Clearwater control unit.

 

[Warthog34]

I still can't get the feature where the horn turns the Krista's on high to work, so if someone figure out which wire you are supposed to tie into, please let me know. I tried calling Clearwater, and i have to say they weren't all that helpful. I could have figured out "use a sensor on the wires to see which one has a current when the switch is depressed" all on my own. In my case, both wires that are attached to the horn on the clutch side of the bike will cause the lights to be on high all of the time if I tie into them with the wires that were labeled "Horn" on the Clearwater control unit.

In getting ready to install my Krista's (I have an 04 so this may be different for you) I reviewed the wiring diagram and it looks to me like the pink wire is the ground and the brown wire is the positive. I have only explored the battery side horn and the wires are clearly different colors on that side. The instructions say to tap into the horn positive so I plan on hitting the brown wire. You could positap each wire (one at a time) and use a volt meter to which wire gets the juice when you hit the horn as you have already indicated. I've not gotten as far as you on my install but I have put a bit of time into the prep. Good luck and let me know.

I looked at the diagram again and the brown is definitely the wire coming from the switch.

With what you describe, I'm wondering if both horns activate when you hit the switch.

 

[dcarver]

Good to see you're making great progress on your road warrior..

..now then, what have you been doing for your body to ensure it's in shape for the future 'tests'?

 

[TriggerT]

..now then, what have you been doing for your body to ensure it's in shape for the future 'tests'?

I am working on it. Down about 13 pounds in the last 2.5 weeks. I traveling for work right now, and fighting a cold which makes it really tough.

 

[Warthog34]

I still can't get the feature where the horn turns the Krista's on high to work, so if someone figure out which wire you are supposed to tie into, please let me know. I tried calling Clearwater, and i have to say they weren't all that helpful. I could have figured out "use a sensor on the wires to see which one has a current when the switch is depressed" all on my own. In my case, both wires that are attached to the horn on the clutch side of the bike will cause the lights to be on high all of the time if I tie into them with the wires that were labeled "Horn" on the Clearwater control unit.

In getting ready to install my Krista's (I have an 04 so this may be different for you) I reviewed the wiring diagram and it looks to me like the pink wire is the ground and the brown wire is the positive. I have only explored the battery side horn and the wires are clearly different colors on that side. The instructions say to tap into the horn positive so I plan on hitting the brown wire. You could positap each wire (one at a time) and use a volt meter to which wire gets the juice when you hit the horn as you have already indicated. I've not gotten as far as you on my install but I have put a bit of time into the prep. Good luck and let me know.

I looked at the diagram again and the brown is definitely the wire coming from the switch.

With what you describe, I'm wondering if both horns activate when you hit the switch.

Just put the multimeter on the horns to confirm which terminal goes hot when you hit the switch and the odd thing is BOTH terminals are getting 12v all the time so I'm going to have the same issue. I don't think I'm gonna dick with it until someone posts the solution. I think Clearwater didn't do all the research on the horn thing. I'll call/email them and post back if anything positive comes out of it.

 

[wabill]

I still can't get the feature where the horn turns the Krista's on high to work, so if someone figure out which wire you are supposed to tie into, please let me know. I tried calling Clearwater, and i have to say they weren't all that helpful. I could have figured out "use a sensor on the wires to see which one has a current when the switch is depressed" all on my own. In my case, both wires that are attached to the horn on the clutch side of the bike will cause the lights to be on high all of the time if I tie into them with the wires that were labeled "Horn" on the Clearwater control unit.

In getting ready to install my Krista's (I have an 04 so this may be different for you) I reviewed the wiring diagram and it looks to me like the pink wire is the ground and the brown wire is the positive. I have only explored the battery side horn and the wires are clearly different colors on that side. The instructions say to tap into the horn positive so I plan on hitting the brown wire. You could positap each wire (one at a time) and use a volt meter to which wire gets the juice when you hit the horn as you have already indicated. I've not gotten as far as you on my install but I have put a bit of time into the prep. Good luck and let me know.

I looked at the diagram again and the brown is definitely the wire coming from the switch.

With what you describe, I'm wondering if both horns activate when you hit the switch.

Just put the multimeter on the horns to confirm which terminal goes hot when you hit the switch and the odd thing is BOTH terminals are getting 12v all the time so I'm going to have the same issue. I don't think I'm gonna dick with it until someone posts the solution. I think Clearwater didn't do all the research on the horn thing. I'll call/email them and post back if anything positive comes out of it.

I just checked the schematic and yes, both wires will appear "hot". The pink wire going to the switch is grounded when the horn switch is pushed. This is per a 2006/2007 schematic.

 

[Warthog34]

I still can't get the feature where the horn turns the Krista's on high to work, so if someone figure out which wire you are supposed to tie into, please let me know. I tried calling Clearwater, and i have to say they weren't all that helpful. I could have figured out "use a sensor on the wires to see which one has a current when the switch is depressed" all on my own. In my case, both wires that are attached to the horn on the clutch side of the bike will cause the lights to be on high all of the time if I tie into them with the wires that were labeled "Horn" on the Clearwater control unit.

I emailed Glenn at Clearwater and the solution is a relay that he can provide. I'm posting below both my inquiry to Clearwater and Glenn's response. He emailed me back right away which I appreciated.

My email to Clearwater:

Hi there,

There are a couple of FJR owners going back and forth on the FJR forum about not being able to get the "instant on with horn" functionality to work on their bikes. I too am having the same issue. The problem is BOTH terminals on the horns are hot with 12v each. When the switch is activated the voltage drops on the pink wire (which according to the Yamaha wiring diagram, should be the ground) and both horn units activate as they should. The short of it is, the functionality does not work when the provided instructions are followed and I am asking for additional assistance and suggestion as to how to get this functionality to work. I really like the idea of the feature and I'd like, even more, to be able to actually use it.

Thanks in advance for providing a solution.

Glenn's response:

Hi Mike

Yes you are correct. The FJR uses a ground signal to activate the

horn. I can supply a relay to make this work. The relay simply inverts

the neg signal and sends 12v + to our controller. Did not know this

was so popular!

I will get back to you on Mon. No worries, we can help you.

Glenn

 

[TriggerT]

Thanks for following up with Clearwater on this.

Not going to have time to work on the bike this weekend. I received the Rifle windshield and the Garmin 2720 GPS earlier this week. Items from N-Line are on the way, so hopefully I can make some time next weekend to get things put on.

 

[Gramps]

Hey Tim it's been great fun to follow your journey on getting your bike set up. Now if there's another Hooterville get together remember you're obligated to ride in the back of the pack with us slower old farts....I guess petey might be the exception to that category. Hope to ride with you again sometime this year.

 

[TriggerT]

Thanks Gramps. Slower is on the agenda for this coming season. Between the crash, and my insurance almost dropping me because of the number of speeding tickets I have had, I think it is time to start keeping it within 5 or 10 the majority of the time.

 

[TriggerT]

A minor update.

I was able to get the fuel sending unit out of the tank yesterday morning. Actually, once you know to look for the release tab on the assembly that is on the side of the fuel sending unit, it comes out of the tank pretty easily.

The BADnews is that the tank from the bike has a pretty good coating of rust on the inside. I have ordered a kit from POR-15 to address the issue of the rust, and I am hoping to have the rust taken care of, and the bulkhead fitting installed by the end of this coming weekend.

I also received notice that the items I ordered from N-Line are on the way, so I will have a pretty good number of items to install this coming weekend.

 

[Warthog34]

Thanks for following up with Clearwater on this.

Not going to have time to work on the bike this weekend. I received the Rifle windshield and the Garmin 2720 GPS earlier this week. Items from N-Line are on the way, so hopefully I can make some time next weekend to get things put on.

Glenn responded right away as he said he would. Below:

Hi Mike,

Our original High/Low relay was just that. It was a relay that controlled our circuit to switch our lights to full high. It did this by "by-passing" the dimmer control.

We used an input from the high beam on your bike (pos or ground) to open a relay that disconnected our dimmer control. This worked great on either pos control or

neg control headlight high beams. It also worked great with horns.

About 8 months ago, we updated our dimmer control microcontroller so that we could eliminate the relay. Customers sometimes did not want the added circuits and

added wiring on their bikes. SO, we thought eliminating the relay would be a good thing. Except that our high beam or horn activation circuit needs a POS input. FJR

bikes (and a few others) of course use a GROUNDED circuit for the horn.

To use the HORN to activate our high beam trigger, you must add a relay. Any standard 12 volt "Bosch" type relay will work. I am including a schematic (wiring diagram) for you

to use with your horn input. Basically, you will use the grounded output from the horn button to activate a 12 volt relay. This relay will switch a 12volt + signal to our dimmer control.

Very simple.

A relay with wires will be sent to you too. No Charge. FJR owners can order a prewired relay from us for $10. That will include shipping. .

Thanks for the comments and input. You may post this response on the FJR forum.

Best regards,

Glenn

 

[Warthog34]

I received the necessary relay from Clearwater yesterday. It came prewired and with the necessary hardware as well as a card from their head installer with a perfectly rendered hand drawn wiring diagram. Awesome customer service from these folks. The relay wired in as described and in 25 minutes I had the Krista's coming to instant full with a touch of the horn button. Very pleased.

 

[TriggerT]

Most of the day yesterday was spent working on the gas tank.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=135791&st=40

The rust in the tank problem should now be fixed, and the tank is drilled for the fuel cell bulkhead fitting. I was surprised that I can easily get my standard 3/8" ratchet in the tank, since several other members said they had to get a ratchet with a pivot. Maybe it will be an issue when I actually got to install the fitting?

I also took a few minutes to fit on the N-Line dash to see it it will work with the Rifle windshield. I need to check if it works with the shield in the up position, but it looks like there wont be any problems since it clears with a decent amount of room to spare in the down position.

 

[TriggerT]

Thanks to the dog waking me up at 3:00 am this morning, I got out to the shop early and got some work done. (The dog is getting old and can't hold it like she used to).

The sealer to keep the tank from rusting again had dried for almost a full week, so it was time to put the bulkhead fitting in, and get the tank back on the bike. I decided to route the line for the fuel cell down the right side of the bike. here is the bulkhead fitting installed:

I was able to get the fitting installed without resorting to anything other than a standard 3/8" ratchet. I bought the quick couplers from Sampson ,and they seem to work really well. Here is the tank mounted on the bike, and the quick coupler sticking out just a little form under the tank.

And a picture of the line going back to the fuel cell:

I put enough gas in both the tank, and the fuel cell to make sure nothing was leaking, and everything seems to be working. I had enough gas in the cell that when I opening the transfer valve, I could just barely hear fuel moving into the main tank. I put the seat on, and that part of the job was done.

I then needed to get the N-Line dash completely installed, and all of the accessories I am planning on keeping on the dash.

So I will cut to the chase. Here are the pictures as she is now, ready to go for a test ride tomorrow.

Front with Clearwater's and HID's on low:

With Clearwater's and HID's on high:

And the final touch:

So far, the list of things I have done to the bike since I bought it are:

>Installed Penske rear shock.

>Installed G2 throttle tube.

>Installed BMW grips.

>Installed hand-guards.

>Installed Pazzo levers.

>Installed heavy bar ends.

>Installed HID front light conversion.

>Changed final drive oil.

>Greased drive shaft splines.

>Installed "Darkside" rear brake caliper brace.

>Installed PAIR covers.

>Installed Vista cruise.

>Changed fork oil, and adjusted settings.

>Installed Super-Brace.

>Changed to Iridium sparks plugs.

>Changed air filter.

>Installed Audio-Vox cruise control.

>Installed fender extender.

>Installed dash mounted Gerbing heat control.

>Installed Cee-Bailey's head light guards.

>Installed 90 degree valve stems.

>New PR2 front and Darkside car tire rear.

>Installed Brodie ground wire harness.

>Installed handle bar risers.

>Installed reflective decals on side bags and Givi E52.

>Installed Givi E52 with Addmore light kit.

>Installed speed bleeders on brakes and clutch.

>Bled brakes and clutch.

>Greased center and side stands.

>Changed anit-freeze.

>Installed Datel volt meter.

>Performed TBS.

>Installed motovation sliders.

>Installed Clearwater Krista LED lights.

>Changed engine oil and filter.

>Installed Rifle windshield and tuning blocks.

>Installed ZUMO 550 on stem mount.

>Installed N-Line dash shelf.

>Installed Garmin 2720 on dash shelf.

>Installed V1 radar detector with visual alert.

>Installed XM antenna on dash shelf.

>Installed TAT fuel cell.

>Treated gas tank for rust, and sealed it.

>Disconnected windshield auto retract.

>Added Russell seat.

>Installed Fuze block.

I still need to get the fuel cell cover I have on order from Lind-T, put the Skyway hydration system on when I need it, and put the rest of the tank bag system with the rally book on when I need it. I think that about covers it.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

:thumbsup:

 

[LowAndSilent]

:dribble:

That is looking damned good! Great job on the prep work.

 

[Gramps]

Wow!!

 

[Quixote]

That's sweet, I've got a long way to go.