Help Modifying Autocom 7 Headset Leads, etc.

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FJR-Richie

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Hope this isn't too confusing....

1) I don't have the Autocom adaptor to plug in earbuds (or other earphones) but want to modify them to do so - the Autocom earphones have two wires each to each earphone whereas my earbuds only appear to have one wire to each earphone- not sure why?

2) I have a Crackberry 7250 which does not have an autoanswer feature - so anytime I need to answer with the "handsfree" mic/headset plugged in requires me to "push the button" on the earbud lead. (See below).

3) As an aside, I'd like to mount dual weatherproof seven pin DIN connector sockets to receive the Autocom Headset leads. Anyone ever done this?

So what I really want to do is wire my earbuds into my Autocom headset (preferably using similar "quick connects" as the factory earphone connects) and in addition add an in-line button (mounted on the handlebars) to push to answer. Any suggested solutions?

What I think I really need to know is the detailed configuration of the 7 pin DIN connector if anyone has it. Then I could probably work something out. Thanks for your advice. If I can get this to work I'll post details and pics.

Rich

 
FJR-Richie - As you might suspect, the Autocom folks have a cord you can buy to allow you to plug in earplugs. I bought 2 from our Tulsa truck connection - as I recall they were about $40 each!!! Pricey, but work well.

 
What you want to do can easily be done, but you do need the pinouts for the autocom headset lead.

Your earbuds must have two wires running into each bud. Electricity needs a looped pathway. Unless they are grounding through your head... :blink:

In any event, keep in mind the AutoCom headset alone won't get you good results. You need the module too. Do you have it? It handles amplification and noise reduction. You would likely have a problem having people hear you through the microphone without the unit.

Once you have the unit, you can interface it to your phone with an answer button too. Two separate cables you will need to build.

-BD

 
Sorry it took me a while to get my diagram uploaded for display. Here is a combined volume control and earphone adapter for a AutoCom Pro7. The connector views are seen as if looking at the connector. Making one of these cost me about $15 with the largest part costs being the potentiometer and the plastic box. I made one with a 10 Kohm Pot but it didn't function better than the 5K.

111410956_01e6c81917_o.gif


 
Sorry no pics of my final box but it is nothing special. I went to a 'real' electronic hobby store to locate parts but I think everything except the 7 pin connectors is stocked by Radio Shack. This particular earphone design is for separate left/right mono-style wiring so you'll need to modify for a stereo plug.

I'd consider selling them but, um, the design was reverse engineered from a widget I bought. I would not have done this but the workmanship was poor and it broke after only a little use. Also, the effort required to properly make 'em is a little high. I figured I'd just share and help my fellow rocket riders. Also, there has to be a better way to attenuate the master AutoCom signal than a simple in-line pot. But it works.

I hate those 7 pin connectors. Wires are soldered to the backside in what amounts to a butt joint. The wire inserts into a short metal tube but you can't crimp it or wrap the wire around anything. All you can do is wet solder between the tube and the wire. Mechanical joint strength poor and they're a biatch to solder correctly. Oh, and the plastic disk that holds the tubes tends to melt at soldering temperatures.

 
So looks like you are running dual jacks each with its own pot?

Now I need to figure out how to modify for stereo since only three conductors.... I don't think I can just tie together black and red... any suggestions?

 
Yep, dual jacks to match the custom earphone set I got. Does seem funky compared to a single stereo connector.

I think you just need to figure out the signal lines (left & right) and the Ground or common and wire up a stereo earplug adapter appropriately (signal lines to the helmet speakers get interrupted to run through the earphones). I think you'll still need to run each signal line through a pot unless someone has a more sophisticated attenuation method. The dynamic range of attenuation is not stellar but it is enough to handle situations and riding noise variations without fumbling for my Ipod's controls.

The volume control aspect works even if you're using the standard helmet speakers. And a master control is otherwise lacking on the AutoCom, unless you count the +3 dB (or is it +6 dB?) dummy plug.

Curiously, I still need to plug in my helmet to kick in the AutoCom's automatic turn-on (using 9V battery mode). I'm not certain how that circuit works.

 
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