Help needed with an big issue?

[xzalion]

Ok here is the story. I own a 2002 fjr 1300. My headlights bulbs are the standard ones & they simple are really poor in visible. So i got myself "halgoon bulbs super white" With the idea it will be better. They are ... But back 2 weeks ago my bike starting to give electronic issues.

The 2002 fjr is the bike were you must press the button to set the lights on or off etc. so when i press my lights on it's fine, but when i ride & want to lift my screen up all stuff freeze up.

Ok here is what i tried to fix this issue.

Look at battery*

Replace new bulbs with old*

Remove 1 bulb & test*

Trace wire*

(None worked)

But what is very strange is, when my lights are off i can with easy lift my screen up & down. but when i set my lights on it freeze. Although if my park lights are on the screen also lifts up. but the conclusion appear when my lights are on! All this **** happend when i replace my old poor bulbs with super white ones. Damn i am so pissed ...

The main thing is i think an wire are burned somewhere & i can't simple track it.

We came up with another solution. (Relays) We are going to cut off the main wire & route them directly to the relay. & after this to the battery. With high hopes we think this are the issue. Hope it works. My bike is going in on monday to try fixing this issue. If we win! I will also make an PDF file with all the resource we use to fix this. Let's just hope we are going to fix it LOL

Does anybody experience this issue before? If so what was the casue from your side?

Keep well

Dewaldt

 

[Afast03nNJ]

Either you knocked a connector loose or have a grounding issue. Either not caused by the bulbs, but rather the process of replacing them. Take the front apart a bit and look at every electrical connector. Make sure they are clean and tight. Also check all the grounding points for any corrosion.

 

[palerider]

Ok here is the story. I own a 2002 fjr 1300. My headlights bulbs are the standard ones & they simple are really poor in visible. So i got myself "halgoon bulbs super white" With the idea it will be better. They are ... But back 2 weeks ago my bike starting to give electronic issues.

The 2002 fjr is the bike were you must press the button to set the lights on or off etc. so when i press my lights on it's fine, but when i ride & want to lift my screen up all stuff freeze up.

Ok here is what i tried to fix this issue.

Look at battery*

Replace new bulbs with old*

Remove 1 bulb & test*

Trace wire*

(None worked)

But what is very strange is, when my lights are off i can with easy lift my screen up & down. but when i set my lights on it freeze. Although if my park lights are on the screen also lifts up. but the conclusion appear when my lights are on! All this **** happend when i replace my old poor bulbs with super white ones. Damn i am so pissed ...

The main thing is i think an wire are burned somewhere & i can't simple track it.

We came up with another solution. (Relays) We are going to cut off the main wire & route them directly to the relay. & after this to the battery. With high hopes we think this are the issue. Hope it works. My bike is going in on monday to try fixing this issue. If we win! I will also make an PDF file with all the resource we use to fix this. Let's just hope we are going to fix it LOL

Does anybody experience this issue before? If so what was the casue from your side?

Keep well

Dewaldt

Does the bike behave normally if you put the old bulbs back in?

 

[03HiYoSilver]

X,

In case you need it, here is where the Relays are located:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=31021

Hope you don't need it and good luck on your fix.

 

[ionbeam]

To sort this out you really need to have a volt meter, do you have one or access to one? A Digital Multimeter would be much better for this job than a needle type because we need the better voltage resolution. Initially, it would be necessary to remove dash panel A to get access to the battery. Depending on what we find there, it may be necessary to remove the rest of the dash panels and the left side faring to get access to the Voltage Regulator.

This might be a ground problem, but I think it is more likely to be a voltage supply problem. It may be a tired stator, problem with the ignition switch or a connection problem between the voltage regulator and the battery terminal.

Based on way too little information, a few guesses are -- the voltage at the R/R +12 volt output is good. The voltage at the battery is lower than the output of the R/R (which it should not be) and the voltage on the switched electrical system (after the key switch) is significantly lower than the battery voltage.

I don't think the brighter bulbs were the root cause, though they may have caused the underlying problem to express itself. I don't think you should focus on the headlights or windshield drive right now, but look at the overall health of the entire electrical system. If the main electrical system looks good then we can start to move into sub-systems.

 

[xzalion]

Ok here is the story. I own a 2002 fjr 1300. My headlights bulbs are the standard ones & they simple are really poor in visible. So i got myself "halgoon bulbs super white" With the idea it will be better. They are ... But back 2 weeks ago my bike starting to give electronic issues.

The 2002 fjr is the bike were you must press the button to set the lights on or off etc. so when i press my lights on it's fine, but when i ride & want to lift my screen up all stuff freeze up.

Ok here is what i tried to fix this issue.

Look at battery*

Replace new bulbs with old*

Remove 1 bulb & test*

Trace wire*

(None worked)

But what is very strange is, when my lights are off i can with easy lift my screen up & down. but when i set my lights on it freeze. Although if my park lights are on the screen also lifts up. but the conclusion appear when my lights are on! All this **** happend when i replace my old poor bulbs with super white ones. Damn i am so pissed ...

The main thing is i think an wire are burned somewhere & i can't simple track it.

We came up with another solution. (Relays) We are going to cut off the main wire & route them directly to the relay. & after this to the battery. With high hopes we think this are the issue. Hope it works. My bike is going in on monday to try fixing this issue. If we win! I will also make an PDF file with all the resource we use to fix this. Let's just hope we are going to fix it LOL

Does anybody experience this issue before? If so what was the casue from your side?

Keep well

Dewaldt

Does the bike behave normally if you put the old bulbs back in?

No.

 

[xzalion]

Either you knocked a connector loose or have a grounding issue. Either not caused by the bulbs, but rather the process of replacing them. Take the front apart a bit and look at every electrical connector. Make sure they are clean and tight. Also check all the grounding points for any corrosion.

Striped the entire front end & i look at all connectors. I have an big feeling i must replace the entire harnas

 

[xzalion]

X,

In case you need it, here is where the Relays are located:

https://www.fjrforum....showtopic=31021

Hope you don't need it and good luck on your fix.

Thanks, will look it up

 

[xzalion]

To sort this out you really need to have a volt meter, do you have one or access to one? A Digital Multimeter would be much better for this job than a needle type because we need the better voltage resolution. Initially, it would be necessary to remove dash panel A to get access to the battery. Depending on what we find there, it may be necessary to remove the rest of the dash panels and the left side faring to get access to the Voltage Regulator.

This might be a ground problem, but I think it is more likely to be a voltage supply problem. It may be a tired stator, problem with the ignition switch or a connection problem between the voltage regulator and the battery terminal.

Based on way too little information, a few guesses are -- the voltage at the R/R +12 volt output is good. The voltage at the battery is lower than the output of the R/R (which it should not be) and the voltage on the switched electrical system (after the key switch) is significantly lower than the battery voltage.

I don't think the brighter bulbs were the root cause, though they may have caused the underlying problem to express itself. I don't think you should focus on the headlights or windshield drive right now, but look at the overall health of the entire electrical system. If the main electrical system looks good then we can start to move into sub-systems.

Hey.

This is really great info mate, I will start to strip the entire bike down & look deep into each category to fix this. **** this pisses me off, i love my riding & now i must fix my bike.

 

[ionbeam]

First checks:

Start the engine, wait about a minute and measure the voltage across the battery terminals, do not measure from the chassis to battery + 12 volt, measure right across the terminals. Let us know what it is.

With the engine idling, and with the black meter lead on the battery minus terminal, measure +12 volts on any ignition switched item, preferably something up front like running lights, the voltage at the fuel pump or even at the front brake switch <--- probably the easiest to get to. The Brown wire on the brake lever should be +12 volts with the engine running. Let us know what it is.

Now, put the meter back across the battery terminals, with the engine idling try to move the windshield. Watch the meter and record the results.

Do this same thing again, only this time measure the voltage at the front brake switch. Record and let us know.

The results of these voltages will point the direction for the next steps.

===========================================================

Edited to add:

Measuring the voltage at the battery with the engine running will tell us the health of the primary electrical system, including Stator, main wiring harness, main fuse, terminal junctions at the starter relay and the battery.

Measuring the voltage at the brake switch will tell us the health of the secondary electrical system, including the ignition switch and fuse block.

Operating the windshield while watching the voltage at the brake switch will show if the windshield motor is dragging down the ignition switched electrical system.

Operating the windshield while watching the voltage at the battery will show if the windshield motor is dragging down the primary electrical system.

If these voltages look good then the troubleshooting moves on to the sub-systems in the nose of the bike. If these voltages look bad we need to determine if the windshield drive unit is defective, what is wrong with the primary charging and battery circuit or what is wrong with the ignition switched circuit.

 

[xzalion]

First checks:

Start the engine, wait about a minute and measure the voltage across the battery terminals, do not measure from the chassis to battery + 12 volt, measure right across the terminals. Let us know what it is.

With the engine idling, and with the black meter lead on the battery minus terminal, measure +12 volts on any ignition switched item, preferably something up front like running lights, the voltage at the fuel pump or even at the front brake switch <--- probably the easiest to get to. The Brown wire on the brake lever should be +12 volts with the engine running. Let us know what it is.

Now, put the meter back across the battery terminals, with the engine idling try to move the windshield. Watch the meter and record the results.

Do this same thing again, only this time measure the voltage at the front brake switch. Record and let us know.

The results of these voltages will point the direction for the next steps.

I will let you know @ monday or tuesday with the results.

 

[Dudewado]

"ionbeam zeros in on the problem with excellent and professional advice"

I love your posts, Allen.

You are a priceless asset to the forum.

Thanks for all that you do to help the the unfortunate that don't know an electron from a queerton.

(Queerton: electron that blows fuses.)

 

[xzalion]

"ionbeam zeros in on the problem with excellent and professional advice"

I love your posts, Allen.

You are a priceless asset to the forum.

Thanks for all that you do to help the the unfortunate that don't know an electron from a queerton.

(Queerton: electron that blows fuses.)

Check all the fuse also. none are blown etc. It's more complicated than you think, There is 2 thing. The headlight 1 relay & headlight 2 relay. if not. I think it can also be the screen motor. but shall see the out come.

 

[ionbeam]

I'm approaching your problem from a structured troubleshooting plan. I know that your problems have their symptoms in a different area than where I'm asking you to start the troubleshooting. We need to know that some fundamental systems are working correctly first. Finding a low voltage at a relay means nothing unless we first know that the main electrical system that feeds it is working. Plus, we need one place that we know is good from which to base our other measurements. I understand you messed with the lights and now the windshield drive will not play nice with the headlights and we will get to that, but the root cause may not be where the symptoms show up. If it is indeed in the lighting or windshield drive system we will get there quickly and not have to guess, but we will know with certainty what the root problem is. I have looked at the schematic and the common circuits; checking the basic electrical system is the best place to start because it may actually be the root cause.

 

[Dudewado]

"ionbeam zeros in on the problem with excellent and professional advice"

I love your posts, Allen.

You are a priceless asset to the forum.

Thanks for all that you do to help the the unfortunate that don't know an electron from a queerton.

(Queerton: electron that blows fuses.)

Check all the fuse also. none are blown etc. It's more complicated than you think, There is 2 thing. The headlight 1 relay & headlight 2 relay. if not. I think it can also be the screen motor. but shall see the out come.

LOL, not directed at you.

Just an old electrician joke.

I'm an electrician and do pretty good at troubleshooting, but unlike ionbeam, I do better when I can do hands-on.

He is excellent at trouble-shooting at a distance; I am not.

I work(ed)in an industrial environment; and when troubleshooting, it's always a question of how to go about it and where to start.

It's always tempting to go by instinct, and sometimes you get lucky.

For instance, with your problem, it started when you changed the bulbs, and instinct tells you to look there first.

ionbeams advice to break the circuit down in segments, starting with reading the voltage on the battery, then narrowing down segments from there is the logical way to go. It's frustrating to disassemble something, then find out the problem is on the other end. Don't ask me how many times I've done that at 3 A.M.

My mentor always told me to check "input, decision, output".

With your problem the first input is good voltage from the charging system/battery to the relay through the wiring and connectors, then the relay activating ("decision") etc.

I hope it turns out to be an easy fix for you.

EDIT: Allen outposted me.

 

[xzalion]

Hey.

If i am correct i posted 3 weeks ago regarding a technical issue with my 2002 FJR 1300.

here is a past story.

My bikes headlights was really poor. I changes those with a stronger bulb. like 100/90, where to old ones was like 40/55.

My bike started to behave badly, When i "press" the button to move my screen up & down, my bikes headlights pull dead & on the clock the high beam shows etc, However when i put my head lights off, i can move free up & down with my screen. The 2002 FJR is one of those bikes you till have to press the buttons to turn on the light etc, But what is very strange is ... When i shut down my ignition the stuff stills shows on the clock, like my high beam.

But once i press any button on my bike it appear off. How de hell does that work? & what is also very strange is, @ the Wind Shield Drive Unit @ the small motor of it, It makes a strange bsssssssssssss noise :glare: if i turn off my ignition.

Here is what i did.

Set back my old bulbs

Check all the Fuses - ( All are okay)

Replace old battery with new.

Replace / Headlight relay 1 & Headlight relay high & low.

However, none did work! So i got an auto electrician to help to track this issue. Strip the entire wire system, & we track to issue to the "Wind Shield drive Unit" I was so happy, Bought a new "Wind Shield Drive Unit' & i replace it, ****, The results where to same, back to 1 again :angry2:

Don't know if the Ignition is damage etc or what els, It can't be the "ECU" otherwise none will work or is it not?

I phone an yamaha dealer, & they said, it sounds like a short somewere on the bike, Does anybody know were is this short? Been looking my *** of & could not find anything at all.

Please help ... help ... help

 

[ionbeam]

You have done a lot of expensive and extensive 'shotgun' troubleshooting. In a previous post we asked for 4 small, free, bits of information. You have done as you said you were going to and changed everything without a clue if they were really bad; give us some information and we can help you get to the root cause.

 

[Ignacio]

In a previous post we asked for 4 small, free, bits of information. You have done as you said you were going to and changed everything without a clue if they were really bad; give us some information and we can help you get to the root cause.

If i am correct i posted 3 weeks ago regarding a technical issue with my 2002 FJR 1300.

here is a past story......

Please help ... help ... help

That seems to be a recurring theme with the OP. Thanks for the link ionbeam. Merging threads to consolidate and hopefully help the poster.

Hey, xzalion! ionbeam KNOWS what he speaks. Help HIM to help YOU! Help US to help YOU! Please quit making new threads on a subject that you've already gotten very helpful advice.

 

[xzalion]

Ok, I'll sort it out, give me time to get all details required, once i have that, i'll post "here" again