Help...Please ...I stripped the oil pan receptacle

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Just take the oil pan off and take it to any machine shop. They can put a thread insert into it for you for minimal cost. If they do not know how, run from the shop and find another. It is not rocket science to repair damaged threads in aluminum.

 
Here here! And you'll have your own custom mod. Not many others will have the same sized hole as you. Be proud of that big hole and put a bigger plug in it before you make a mess all over the floor.

 
You probably don't want a different size hole in the pan. If you get it repaired you should be able to use the stock drain plug. I can think of several ways they could repair the pan pretty easy once you take it off.

I hope you don't take this as an insult, but you want to be very careful removing and replacing the pan. It is a bit more difficult to repair stripped threads for the bolts that hold the pan on.

 
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First of all, who knew there are TWO technical sections to this forum? What the hell is that about? I just discovered this section, and I don't understand the difference. This forum is not big enough for that.

Now, I would heli-coil that ***** in a New York minute. You then have Stainless steel threads that are damn near indestructible. The process takes an experienced Heli-coiler all of about 5 minutes do do when the pan is off the engine - which I recommend so you don't risk metal shavings getting into the engine when the tap the new threads.

 
Don't feel too badly, I've done the same thing to a Concours, and a Yamaha Kodiak. Gasket sealant helped on the ATV because they have two drain plugs, for the Concours I had to buy a new pan...lesson learned.

 
Maywanna...,

You got our attention and lots of good, and some not do good, suggestions. It is now incumbent on you to fess up and tell us how you resolved the problem.

Thanks,

Geezer

 
Hm, ........geezer? Might you ah...maybe...is it perchance....that you uh...did the same thing? lol

 
If you coil the pan, you can do it pan in place. Just run a gallon of drain oil through the engine before sealing it up. Through as in pour it in with the plug in place, then pull the plug. This will remove the debris.

 
If you coil the pan, you can do it pan in place. Just run a gallon of drain oil through the engine before sealing it up. Through as in pour it in with the plug in place, then pull the plug. This will remove the debris.
I think you are right, but I'm just not sure I would feel comfortable doing it. I think it would depend on how hard it is to take the pan off.

 
I think you are right, but I'm just not sure I would feel comfortable doing it. I think it would depend on how hard it is to take the pan off.
No doubt the job would be easier, and more precise, with the pan off. In fact, as well hidden as the plug is, it may be the only way. Just offering option ideas here.

 
Hm, ........geezer? Might you ah...maybe...is it perchance....that you uh...did the same thing? lol
Nope... Uh, uh,...... not me...... :D

Actually, I make my share of mistakes but this was not one of them.

 
These self-tapping oil drain bolts are supposed to be a cheap fix, and work well from what I have heard... https://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm...ocation_id=2753

I think there are multiple manuf. that make these too...
Those are for the steel welded nuts inside steel pans-they would rip the **** out of aluminum, unless you got the plug within a plug style, but those have their own issues, such as the main plug wanting to turn when removing the small, and the height of the main plug preventing drainage of the crud that collects at the bottom of the pan. Were it a stranded rider situation, I might use them, but only as a last resort, for they pretty much total the pan as far as any other repair goes.

 
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