I have an 06 fjrAE that when i put it in first gear will engage the clutch vilantly and will stall. it fills like the clutch is not disingaging and code SH 16 displays on dash. It will not start again untill i pull the gear lever forward by hand. Any ideas of what the problem is?
Help please
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Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
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mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Code SH__16 says either the clutch or the gear-change operation isn't functioning properly.
From the manual:
(Click on image for larger view)
The symptoms don't quite make sense to me, the MCU does a test of clutch movement when the ignition is turned on, so if the clutch can't operate you would expect this to throw a code immediately. And yet you can get it into gear, even if it then throws a code and stops the engine.
So, some testing.
The clutch actuator self-test: put the kill switch to the kill position, now turn on the ignition. The clutch should operate, this can be heard as a brief double clunk from the clutch area.
I have a video taken with the clutch cover off, shows two cycles of ignition on and off:
Click on the image below for the video. Note that my server may struggle, you might find it better to download the file and play it locally.
You should be able to hear that sound (albeit more muffled 'cos you have the cover on).
Another test, can you change into 1st gear without the engine running (side stand up, ignition on, click the gear-change lever). Is it now in gear? Was an error code thrown?
If it is in gear, try disengaging the clutch by putting the ignition on and pull the brake lever. After about a second, you should hear the clutch actuator operate. Release the brake, you should now be able to push the bike.
These tests should narrow the problem down a bit.
Last edited by a moderator:
I tryed that tonight opened the clutch cover up and no clutch movement at allCode SH__16 says either the clutch or the gear-change operation isn't functioning properly.
From the manual:
(Click on image for larger view)
The symptoms don't quite make sense to me, the MCU does a test of clutch movement when the ignition is turned on, so if the clutch can't operate you would expect this to throw a code immediately. And yet you can get it into gear, even if it then throws a code and stops the engine.
So, some testing.
The clutch actuator self-test: put the kill switch to the kill position, now turn on the ignition. The clutch should operate, this can be heard as a brief double clunk from the clutch area.
I have a video taken with the clutch cover off, shows two cycles of ignition on and off:
Click on the image below for the video. Note that my server may struggle, you might find it better to download the file and play it locally.
You should be able to hear that sound (albeit more muffled 'cos you have the cover on).
Another test, can you change into 1st gear without the engine running (side stand up, ignition on, click the gear-change lever). Is it now in gear? Was an error code thrown?
If it is in gear, try disengaging the clutch by putting the ignition on and pull the brake lever. After about a second, you should hear the clutch actuator operate. Release the brake, you should now be able to push the bike.
These tests should narrow the problem down a bit.
RossKean
Well-known member
I dont think so it shifts into gear so the shift accuator works but the clutch accuator does not disengage the clutch thats why it stalls the engine
Yikes. Fancy, high tech problems mean a flat bed ride to a servicing dealership at my house.
I'd spend more in things I broke and swapping random parts in trying to find a fix than I would having a warrantied job done.
I'd spend more in things I broke and swapping random parts in trying to find a fix than I would having a warrantied job done.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
I thought the key-on test checks for mechanical movement of the clutch, maybe it's just of the actuator. Can you hear any clunks when you turn the ignition on?
Maybe there's a problem with the mechanical linkage or the hydraulics. Check the clutch hydraulics is ok (bleed it at least, if the fluid looks awful, change it).
Because the MCU appears to think the actuator is ok on the original key turn-on test, I'd expect the electrical side is ok, but it's worth checking anyway.
If the clutch actuator is foobar'd, it'll be expensive.
No clutch movement at all. I will have to check the hydraulics and see whats going on there
At least every other year: Flush brake and clutch flui
bluesdog
Well-known member
DOT 4 is used in both brake and clutch hydraulic systems.
Highly recommend purchase of a factory service manual, but I believe the owner's manual also specifies DOT 4.
Highly recommend purchase of a factory service manual, but I believe the owner's manual also specifies DOT 4.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
No, it is ok to use DOT 4, NOT "better." Don't use DOT 3, or DOT 5. The systems isn't set up for it. Use standard DOT 4 and be happy.
bluesdog
Well-known member
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
RossKean
Well-known member
You could likely use DOT 3 without any issue (lower boiling point specification but compatible)
DOT 4 is what is recommended by YAMAHA.
DO NOT use DOT 5. It has a silicone base and is NOT compatible with the residual fluid in the system (and possibly seals)
I think (not sure) that DOT 5.1 could be used but why chance it?
Its brake fluid, not rocket science. The system works as intended with DOT 4 and won't work any better with anything else. Since you wouldn't save any money or gain any performance edge with another fluid, don't consider anything other than DOT 4. Use a fresh (unopened) bottle from a reputable manufacturer. The brand probably doesn't even matter since all is made to the DOT specification, but I personally shy away from off brands or store brands.
DOT 4 is what is recommended by YAMAHA.
DO NOT use DOT 5. It has a silicone base and is NOT compatible with the residual fluid in the system (and possibly seals)
I think (not sure) that DOT 5.1 could be used but why chance it?
Its brake fluid, not rocket science. The system works as intended with DOT 4 and won't work any better with anything else. Since you wouldn't save any money or gain any performance edge with another fluid, don't consider anything other than DOT 4. Use a fresh (unopened) bottle from a reputable manufacturer. The brand probably doesn't even matter since all is made to the DOT specification, but I personally shy away from off brands or store brands.
Well i found what the problem is. The clutch accuator motor is foubared but lucky for me i found one on free bay for $140. I sure am not looking forward to replacing it it looks like an ugly job oh well its better than paying somebody else to do it.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Let us know how you get on changing it. I'm not aware of anyone else having done it.
I suspect you're going to find it very difficult, the workshop manual only describes removing it with the engine out. That's not to say you must have the engine out, but ...
If you need to bleed the hydraulics, this is a nasty job as well.
Good luck.
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