HELP STRANDED

[mfletch69]

I AM STRANDED & NEED TO KNOW HOW TO HOT WIRE IGNITION SWITCH WHICH CRAPPED OUT. CALL ME 850-974-8706 MICHAEL

 

[Patriot]

I AM STRANDED & NEED TO KNOW HOW TO HOT WIRE IGNITION SWITCH WHICH CRAPPED OUT. CALL ME 850-974-9706 MICHAEL

voicemail full...hours have passed...assume he has been helped

 

[mfletch69]

I am still stranded can you please try to call me again

 

[mfletch69]

WRONG PHONE NUMBER SHOULD BE 850-974-8706

 

[escapefjrtist]

Spoke to Michael. Providing it's the ignition switch, he should be up and running in a few minutes.

--G

 

[Patriot]

I ate and visted niceville all day yesterday touring eglin AFB.

I carry around an ignition switch jumper on the bike.

Would be happy to help, but got back home to Nawlins' midnight.

Hope ya back on the road.

Dont sweat the bump in the road...and stressed posting wrong phone #.

 

[HIGHLANDER]

I just called him also , he did the bypass and still no start, told him where the main fuse is and it's good. He's already had the recall harness installed so the spider must be good.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Not sure if this will help... here is a link to the Bypass method:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=25185&st=0&p=295172entry295172

 

[Burnspot]

Did he double check his battery connections? Just making sure...as EOM taught us even the simplest of things can be overlooked.

Hopefully, he's on the road shortly.

 

[mfletch69]

Thanks for the assistance guys. My soon to be ex fjr is still dead but at least we were able to get a room at the Snowshoe inn. I had done 6000 miles on it in the last month with no problems.. All recalls done. Idling on the side of the road checking sumo and it just goes black. I checked battery and it had power... Checked terminal connections and they were tight. All fuses good including main. Decided to try the hot-wire. Wire nuttedtwo thin wires together and three thick wires together...nothing.

This is the third and last strike for this bike. Will have to get it towed to elkins

Maybe a C14...?

 

[Patriot]

I just called him also , he did the bypass and still no start, told him where the main fuse is and it's good. He's already had the recall harness installed so the spider must be good.

juat a reminder, as I understand it, the switch failure is a bike TOTAL Electrical failiure...no dash lights, no nothing, But since the next check was the main fuse, I guess that's what happened...not just a non start situation.

Yes, check the battery connections...

EDIT: DISREGARD...ALL THIS ALREADY DONE PER PREV POST

 

[Patriot]

Thanks for the assistance guys. My soon to be ex fjr is still dead but at least we were able to get a room at the Snowshoe inn. I had done 6000 miles on it in the last month with no problems.. All recalls done. Idling on the side of the road checking sumo and it just goes black. I checked battery and it had power... Checked terminal connections and they were tight. All fuses good including main. Decided to try the hot-wire. Wire nuttedtwo thin wires together and three thick wires together...nothing.

This is the third and last strike for this bike. Will have to get it towed to elkins

Maybe a C14...?

geeze, Im so sorry...wonder if an AE gremlin(s) which another or two have reported

bikes are supposed to be fun and reliable

extended warranty?

maybe consider purchasing an equivilent convential FJR and move your farkles over

good luck...I wish I was nearby with trailer

 

[wfooshee]

I don't know what this "2 thin wires and 3 thick ones" stuff is. The ignition switch is a simple double-pole single-throw switch, meaning it connects two separate pairs of wires together. To bypass it, manually connecting the wires, you connect the red to the brown/blue, and the blue/green to the black/red. That's it. The first pair power up the switched systems, and the second pair carries the sidestand ground to the ECU.

When you say fuses are good, looking at them isn't good enough. They can look fine and be blown. You must check with an ohmmeter for continuity.

 

[BwanaDik]

I don't know what this "2 thin wires and 3 thick ones" stuff is. The ignition switch is a simple double-pole single-throw switch, meaning it connects two separate pairs of wires together. To bypass it, manually connecting the wires, you connect the red to the brown/blue, and the blue/green to the black/red. That's it. The first pair power up the switched systems, and the second pair carries the sidestand ground to the ECU.

When you say fuses are good, looking at them isn't good enough. They can look fine and be blown. You must check with an ohmmeter for continuity.

+1

And this is exactly what happened to my roomates truck. He basicly replaced the electrical system, piece by piece, only to discover the fuse link had come adrift at the base where you couldn't see it.

And I'd be stunned if it had anything to do with the AE system. I've never heard of it affecting anything else on the bike. It's not connected to any of the main power systems.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Too bad Michael couldn't get it running. Unless you carry a DVM with you or it's really obvious, troubleshooting electrical issues is a shot in the dark!

From the archives, below is a pic [from DailyCommuter] of the switch before recall and the mothership adding the extra contact / wire.

--G

 

[mfletch69]

in the repalcement ignition switch there are 5 wires. not 4. White, Red & brown wires and then two blue wire that are thinner than the other 3.

 

[wfooshee]

I didn't know about the fifth wire on the post-recall switch, no clue what it's for unless it just shares a load, I don't have a diagram showing it. The colors I gave are the wires on the other side of the connector that goes to the switch, but I actually don't know where that connector is.

But . . . . if something's wrong with that connector then no juice is actually getting to the switch, and jumpering the switch is doing nothing. It's like turning on a switch on a power cord that's unplugged.

If you've jumpered the wires you say you've jumpered, then the switch is bypassed. If the bike still doesn't work, then the switch was not the problem. Without a volt-ohm meter you're not gonna track it down.

Follow the wires and find that connector, jumper the wires on the other side of the connector.

 

[lnewlf]

The ignition switch harness connector to the main harness is under the tank. Unplug there and check for juice on the big wires-one should be hot-forget which. Also on my FJR which was 10 months used when I got it I found the main connector to the ECM barely plugged in and the locking tab broken off[don't know who Fked that up]..check that,it's under the left sidecover- that might cause a completly dead situation.

 

[RED]

I feel your pain. Mine has been dead for over a week. Everything works, the bike just won't fire. It's still in the shop and scheduled to have the "spider" ground recall fix tomorrow. Maybe that will solve the problem.