HELP!! with oil

[FJReady]

Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 is da ****. made for diesels; great for your FJR too.

Go back and read Jestals posts for more info.

 

[Scab]

Here is a collection of posts from member-dude jestal. He is considered by many to be our resident oil expert. Read the oil-related stuff.

Jestal post-things.

 

[SkooterG]

Dude! Where you been? :blink:

The more astute shopper would have read the Rotella packaging and saw that besides the diesel CJ-4 rating, it is also rated SM - the latestest rating for gasoline engines.

Yes, we use diesel oil. As mentioned above, diesel engines require an oil with a more robust additive package. Which make diesel oils outstanding oils. And excellent oils for our FJRs.

 

[artistonFJR]

Thanks guys,

I appreciate the straight fwd answers when talking about stuff that may or may not F-up the whole shooting match. I will pick up the Rotella synth. (Looks like my lawn mower will be getting some Mobil 1)

After posting here I did actually find a Rotella reference or two, but until I found a jestel post much of it seemed kinda sketchy, or smart-alecy, so the trust factor wasn't high!

Now I gotta go return the Fram and find a Pure One filter at lunch (and paint it black, of course).

Thanks

Chris

 

[keithaba]

I always thought it just meant the oil was bad-***. You know, like Vin-Diesel.

Or, you should smoke this ****, it's diesel!

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Engine oil: Type

Recommended engine oil: classification API Service SE, SF, SG or higher

Ambient temps: -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40 50 °C

• SAE 15W-40

• SAE 20W-40

• SAE 10W-40

Your choice, depending on temp range (chart in Euro/World FJR owners manual).

All 3 viscosities handle the upper range in temps – while only the lower numbered viscosities handle the colder temps.

 

[artistonFJR]

Sorry Skooter, I was so busy reading the nutritional value label I missed that one. I hate getting an oil that is high in sodium, cholesterol, or contains MSG (Chinese oils are just filthy with the stuff!) I have noticed the oils with high-fructose corn syrup make my Feej run really well for an hour or two, but then the power takes a dive and I start getting passed by mopeds...maybe I'll mix in a RedBull.

I do thank you all for the answers. This forum IS a lifeline for newbies. It would be nice if I were an expert in everything, and I know education is a self-reliant thing. So I come here to learn. I am not yet an "oil expert" so I ask, tires, same thing... but each time I ask I find some one or everyone knows more than me... and I learn a bit more about my bike.

I wish the "search" option yielded more, in some case ANY, results. Too often I type in simple words and nothing comes up. I tried "oil" yesterday and nuttin found, then two hours later there were dozens of responses, same with filters, and other items as well, so it's not like I don't look, it just sometimes doesn't work.

C

 

[Scab]

I wish the "search" option yielded more, in some case ANY, results. Too often I type in simple words and nothing comes up. I tried "oil" yesterday and nuttin found, then two hours later there were dozens of responses, same with filters, and other items as well, so it's not like I don't look, it just sometimes doesn't work.

Try using google to search the forum. Such as: whateveriamlookingfor site:fjrforum.com

 

[SPORT]

I'm using Castrol Act>Evo 4T 20W-50 oil. After buying 2 4 litre containers last fall, I've discovered the bike FJR actually runs smoother for a longer period of time. Oil still gets serviced every 3,000 miles (oil filter every 6,000 miles). But this stuff has run better than Mobil 1 full synthetic as well as other fully synthetic oils. The price is right too. $17.25 for a 4 litre container from the link. Shipping was the same whether I bought 1 or two containers ($8).

Just my $0.02 worth

 

[artistonFJR]

I gotta ask... is Rotella diesel oil or rocket fuel!!?? Holy crap, I just changed the oil and took her out for a run and I 'd swear it is a different bike by 20 horses! Unbelievable... I've changed oil in all kinds of vehicles and dirtbikes, but never felt that kind of ... of ... anything! Can't be my imagination because i don't have one. She feels like new or better compared to just an hour ago. Yow!

Rotella synth/Mobil 1 filter = smooth and fast.. i guess

Not sure if the shifting was smoother as some claim, I was too busy hanging on and grinning.

C

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

<snip>I'm using Castrol Act>Evo 4T 20W-50 oil. ... I've discovered the bike FJR actually runs smoother for a longer period of time. Oil still gets serviced every 3,000 miles (oil filter every 6,000 miles). But this stuff ... better than Mobil 1 full ... other fully synthetic oils.

In deference to 'SkooterG's wishes:

...let's keep oil out of this discussion - for whatever reason.

I'm picking-up from another thread....('ticker')

'SPORT': This does not sound like a ticker to me. I would bet you are currently running 10w-40 oil that should be replaced with Fully Synth 20W-50 oil. … the tapets 'float' when the engine is warm … Thicker oil usually lessons/resolves the issue. I'm currently running Castrol Act>Evo T4 20W-50 (fully Synthetic) and have not heard any 'ticking'. The bike currently has 8,500 miles on her

My only claim was that thinner oil has the tendancy to allow an engine to make more noise

Certain oils DO have the capability of making an engine run smoother and quieter

Really now.....!

In current Yamaha Snowmobiles, the Genesis derived 4-stroke engines (very similar to FJR -- almost the same parts) Yamaha reccos Yamalube 0/30 semi-synth. Do you think they're really noisy? Run the risk of being "tickers"?

While I don't know the actual viscosities of Castrol 20W-50, it can be assumed that it's generally more viscous than lower number viscosity oil? Two things higher viscosity oil promotes are (1.) higher oil temperature (and thus tending to raise coolant temp -- in the FJR) and (2.) robbing the engine of horsepower. I don't know how these 'old-wive's-tales' of the supposed benefits of heavy oils persist? But, there really isn't anything to support them in relation to modern engines.

The only FJR owners manual (that I know of -- limited knowledge, for sure) that recco's heavier oil exclusively (Yamalube 20/40) was the U.S. one. Maybe Cypress cut a deal with Citgo (the reported bottler)? I don't know -- but, you can't get it anymore.

And, that's a good thing (imo).

 

[fjr]

In summer Elf 100% synthetic Base 100% PAO 10W-60 JASO MA

Winter I use their 10W-50 Syn.

 

[shredder]

Blast!

After changin the oil in my fejer to ten forty Valvoline specific and riding twenty five hundo in a week,,, I suddenly feel the need to try out soma that Ginsu Rotella Rocket Fuel!!!!

 

[Scab]

I don't know how these 'old-wive's-tales' of the supposed benefits of heavy oils persist?

From the 'old' days. Back when we thought oil pressure, as read on the guage, was better if it was higher. That ole 20w50 Castrol gave us the best reading on the guage.

Don't know what the hell it was doing in the engine, but that guage reading made us feel good.

 

[Subcritical]

Mobil Delvac 1300 HD 15w-40.

 

[YukonG]

My dealer also told me that Yamaha now recommends the Yamalube 20W-50 (since there is no longer 20W-40).

From all the posts I've read, it would seem they would be recommending the Yamalube 10W-40.

Does anyone know why there is this discrepancy?

 

[El Toro]

If the bike actually needed 20W40 to start with, then replacing that choice with 20W50 will harm nothing. All the 50 vs. 40 will do is give the oil an extra bit of viscosity at higher temperatures because the fall off of viscosity will be slower with the 50 weight.

Most modern bikes are OK with a 10W starting designation. 10W will have a lower viscosity at the starting conditions and this will allow oil to get to the top end and into the crank journals more quickly.

Since I couldn't find any 20W40 from anyone when I did my first service, I used BMW's 10W40 dino oil which I have in my stocks at home. Since that time I've acquired enough of the 20W40 Yamalube to take me to 40,000 miles, and I'll readdress the issue then if I still have the bike. I picked up enough of the funny final drive lube to take me to 40,000 miles too, so I'm pretty much set.

Barring a specific formal service bulletin from Yamaha, I would think that any good API Service SG, SH, SJ, or JASA service MA oil would be just fine.

 

[02zx9r]

Finally, I think I have the right place to bring this up... I have been hearing "Rotella this" and "Rotella that" and when I finally find it (WalMart) it turns out to be a diesel oil... I stepped back slowly and decided to search the forum again to see if ANYONE has ever mentioned it was actually diesel oil... Is this right? Seriously, is this the same Rotella you use? Diesel oil?
I picked up the Mobil 1 synth because I know that is good to go, but seriously, are you talking diesel oils when you talk Delo-Rotella-etc? It was 15-40, which is closer to being appropriate (ie Yamalube 20-40)

*I know some of you want to pile on, so I have braced myself against the computer desk to help absorb the impacts*

The PeePeeTickler gets fresh blood tomorrow, (Mobil 1 synthetic, unless I get an answer that gives me more confidence that diesel oil is a better choice), so any honest help would be repaid in the afterlife!

C

The Rotella line is a HDEO (heavy durty engine oil) that people just associate with diesels, so it has come to be known as "diesel oil". I have used hdeo's in my honda crf250r and kawasaki ninja zx9r with no problems. Lots of motorcyclists use rotella, chevron delo 400 le 15w40, mobil delvac 1300 super 15w40, whichever one floats your boat. Rotella used to be cheaper at the walmart but now the delvac is the cheaper of the three. Castrol tection 15w40 is supossed to be a good one to but I have no experience with it.

 

[norcal]

I want to relate an experience I just had. I have an 05 with 29k mi. Have used Shell Rotella 20-40wt non-syn for 25k mi. At 24k mi. a low rpm bogging or lack of take off power developed, and a little later a stalling on warm up idle. Couldn't diagnose it myself, and one morning the bike wouldn't start, though it had gas and spark. Trailered it to the dealer, he found the compression was low, around 120 psi + or -. Took the engine out and found the exhaust valves had spots of carbon deposites on the seating lands-hence the bad compression. The throttle body tunnels and the intake air side of the butterflies were coated with soot. I scraped some off the butterflies with my fingernail, and it was about 1/32 inch thick. The only place the soot could come from, as the mechanic told me, was the crankcase breather hose, which enters the intake air between the filter and the throttle body.

The soot deposit material had caused carbon in the head and on the exhaust valves, and the problem. The mechanic asked me what oil I used, I told him, and he said to use motorcycle specific oil. 1,575$ later I'll be taking his advice. I understand many bikes use Rotella with no problem. I live in Redding, Ca, a very hot climate. Whether the temps here and the use of the non-syn Rotella contributed to the problem I don't know. There must be some reason my bike had this soot build up while others don't.

Adios, Jim

 

[El Toro]

There must be some reason my bike had this soot build up while others don't.

It could be related to another NEPRT favorite subject, i.e. gasoline. I've recommended Top Tier Gas as promoted by GM, Toyota, BMW, and a host of other auto manufacturers because those gasoline suppliers have formally committed to specific levels of detergent that are greater than the government minimums. When the government put specs on detergent, some of the formerly good guys took advantage of the wimpy standard and backed off.

Some Top Tier Gas suppliers are Shell, Chevron, Texaco...

check out the list for yourself. https://www.toptiergas.com/

TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is the premier standard for gasoline performance. Six of the world's top automakers, BMW, General Motors, Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen and Audi recognize that the current EPA minimum detergent requirements do not go far enough to ensure optimal engine performance.

Although I've always recognized the importance of detergent, I was unaware of this specific list of suppliers until BMW shared it with me when I purchased one of their bikes.