SLK50
Well-known member
The isolator does double duty as a convertor. ( 5-to-4 wires )Go with the isolated unit, can't hurt and only a few bucks more.
No need for both.
The isolator does double duty as a convertor. ( 5-to-4 wires )Go with the isolated unit, can't hurt and only a few bucks more.
Ah! I see the error of my ways. The converter boxes apparently come in two flavors. The one you were looking out has merely a simple logic function to multiplex the vehicle's turn signals onto the respective brake lines. You want the other kind, the "power taillight converter", which have the isolation function integrated into them. Here are a couple examples.I don't think that's right - they have different purposes. I'm looking at the hoppy converter now; it has no provision for a separate +12V in from the battery or other (more) direct source that would be triggered like a relay or isolator would.Fljab, just to be clear. You would need "either" an isolator on your bike (if you make the trailer into 5-wire), "or" a converter box on your bike (if leaving your trailer as 4-wire). Not both. The 5-to-4 wire converter boxes also serve to isolate your bike's wiring harness, IIRC.
AHA! I see the difference - and yes, I have the wrong one! Crapola! Oh well, now that it's out of the box I'll use it along with the 4 relay setup - that fun starts today!Ah! I see the error of my ways. The converter boxes apparently come in two flavors. The one you were looking out has merely a simple logic function to multiplex the vehicle's turn signals onto the respective brake lines. You want the other kind, the "power taillight converter", which have the isolation function integrated into them. <snip>
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