Here come the questions: Rear Brake

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MajBach

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I understand the rear brake pedal is linked to the front (but the front lever is not linked to the rear?). I find my brake pedal takes an unusually high amount of force to do anything - even compared to a non linked system. Is there a way of increasing braking force to pedal effort?

MajBach

 
Check your pads they may be glazed and not bitting, also when was the last time you flushed the brake fluids?

 
Check your pads they may be glazed and not bitting, also when was the last time you flushed the brake fluids?
I've done neither. Bike has 6000 miles.Is bleeding the back brakes difficult or much different from the front?
Bleeding the rear is simple BUT you have to remember that the master cylinder activates slaves on the right front as well as on the rear!! Normally bleed the front first and then the rear. Make sure you don't let the reservoir go dry - air sucked into this linked ABS is a major pain to clear out.

Ross

 
I find my brake pedal takes an unusually high amount of force to do anything
It should not come across as hard to do, check your pivot points on the pedal, maybe its torqued to much, no lubrication etc... or see if some kind of debris is causing a binding point. On mine I have to be careful not to rest my foot on the pedal to much or I'll be draggin the brakes!

 
Check your pads they may be glazed and not bitting, also when was the last time you flushed the brake fluids?
I've done neither. Bike has 6000 miles.Is bleeding the back brakes difficult or much different from the front?
Bleeding the rear is simple BUT you have to remember that the master cylinder activates slaves on the right front as well as on the rear!! Normally bleed the front first and then the rear. Make sure you don't let the reservoir go dry - air sucked into this linked ABS is a major pain to clear out.

Ross
Does that not mean the front brake lever works the back to? When I put the bike on the centre stand and spin the rear wheel then hit the front brake, it does not brake the rear.

 
I understand the rear brake pedal is linked to the front (but the front lever is not linked to the rear?). I find my brake pedal takes an unusually high amount of force to do anything - even compared to a non linked system. Is there a way of increasing braking force to pedal effort?

MajBach
Firstly, the brakes are definitely linked both ways (I've checked the specs). On my almost new '09, I find the brake pedal pressure required to be very light ... compared to my previous bike, a 1999 Virago 1100 and I had no criticism of the Virago's brakes. So it may be a perception thing ... depending on what bike you had before. But, if it worries or bothers you, then I'd get it checked ou. Brakes are kinda important after all!

 
Check your pads they may be glazed and not bitting, also when was the last time you flushed the brake fluids?
I've done neither. Bike has 6000 miles.Is bleeding the back brakes difficult or much different from the front?
Bleeding the rear is simple BUT you have to remember that the master cylinder activates slaves on the right front as well as on the rear!! Normally bleed the front first and then the rear. Make sure you don't let the reservoir go dry - air sucked into this linked ABS is a major pain to clear out.

Ross
Does that not mean the front brake lever works the back to? When I put the bike on the centre stand and spin the rear wheel then hit the front brake, it does not brake the rear.
The rear brake works the front (right, one of two pad sets) as well as the rear caliper. The front lever does not actuate the rear brake (as far as I know). The previous post suggests otherwise???

Ross

 
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Does that not mean the front brake lever works the back to? When I put the bike on the centre stand and spin the rear wheel then hit the front brake, it does not brake the rear.
The rear brake works the front (right, one of two pad sets) as well as the rear caliper. The front lever does not actuate the rear brake (as far as I know). The previous post suggests otherwise???

Ross
That makes sense to me. I must have misinterpreted the reference to the master cylinder functionality.

Thanks

 
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I understand the rear brake pedal is linked to the front (but the front lever is not linked to the rear?). I find my brake pedal takes an unusually high amount of force to do anything - even compared to a non linked system. Is there a way of increasing braking force to pedal effort?

MajBach
Firstly, the brakes are definitely linked both ways (I've checked the specs). On my almost new '09, I find the brake pedal pressure required to be very light ... compared to my previous bike, a 1999 Virago 1100 and I had no criticism of the Virago's brakes. So it may be a perception thing ... depending on what bike you had before. But, if it worries or bothers you, then I'd get it checked ou. Brakes are kinda important after all!
Sorry Rheal...You are absolutely wrong about this. The rear brake pedal is linked to the front and that is it. The front lever ONLY activates the front.

MajB, if I were you, I'd take the lever apart to ensure it is lubed and not obstructed and then I would PM Cougar8000 for some SpeedBleeders and bleed the entire system, including the clutch. Your rear brake should work very well on this bike, and it should not be hard to activate the ABS when you jam it. Something's amiss, but the FJR's brakes are easy to work on if you don't empty the lines and get them full of air.

 
Love to get involved in this but beer is calling from 15 miles away..

Chimp dik is right though, amazingly so! The front brake lever is independent of the rear.

donkey eater must have read it somewhere.

 
I understand the rear brake pedal is linked to the front (but the front lever is not linked to the rear?). I find my brake pedal takes an unusually high amount of force to do anything - even compared to a non linked system. Is there a way of increasing braking force to pedal effort?

MajBach
Firstly, the brakes are definitely linked both ways (I've checked the specs). On my almost new '09, I find the brake pedal pressure required to be very light ... compared to my previous bike, a 1999 Virago 1100 and I had no criticism of the Virago's brakes. So it may be a perception thing ... depending on what bike you had before. But, if it worries or bothers you, then I'd get it checked ou. Brakes are kinda important after all!
Sorry Rheal...You are absolutely wrong about this. The rear brake pedal is linked to the front and that is it. The front lever ONLY activates the front.

MajB, if I were you, I'd take the lever apart to ensure it is lubed and not obstructed and then I would PM Cougar8000 for some SpeedBleeders and bleed the entire system, including the clutch. Your rear brake should work very well on this bike, and it should not be hard to activate the ABS when you jam it. Something's amiss, but the FJR's brakes are easy to work on if you don't empty the lines and get them full of air.
It's a brand new bike...

Just bleed the rear. The rear bleed on the front is the lower right. Do it first then the rear.

 
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I understand the rear brake pedal is linked to the front (but the front lever is not linked to the rear?). I find my brake pedal takes an unusually high amount of force to do anything - even compared to a non linked system. Is there a way of increasing braking force to pedal effort?

MajBach
Firstly, the brakes are definitely linked both ways (I've checked the specs). On my almost new '09, I find the brake pedal pressure required to be very light ... compared to my previous bike, a 1999 Virago 1100 and I had no criticism of the Virago's brakes. So it may be a perception thing ... depending on what bike you had before. But, if it worries or bothers you, then I'd get it checked ou. Brakes are kinda important after all!
Sorry Rheal...You are absolutely wrong about this. The rear brake pedal is linked to the front and that is it. The front lever ONLY activates the front.

MajB, if I were you, I'd take the lever apart to ensure it is lubed and not obstructed and then I would PM Cougar8000 for some SpeedBleeders and bleed the entire system, including the clutch. Your rear brake should work very well on this bike, and it should not be hard to activate the ABS when you jam it. Something's amiss, but the FJR's brakes are easy to work on if you don't empty the lines and get them full of air.
Thanks for the advice. Please explain: Speedbleeders?

In Rheal's defence, I had a sales guy read to me from a brochure (when I asked him about linked brakes) and it implied that the front lever imparted force on the rear disc. Obviously in real life this doesnt seem to be the case.

 
It may not be anything at all. It's a heavy bike, and using the rear by itself, just to see how it feels, isn't going to have a whole lot of effect. As for the link, the rear is linked to one of the front piston pairs (of the 4 pairs), and only after a certain pressure threshold is reached. Initially, rear is rear only, then the link kicks in if you step a little harder.

No link front to rear.

It's easy to track which is the linked up front, as its hose comes from a different place than the other two hoses. Front calipers are 4 pistons each, fixed caliper opposing pistons in pairs. 3 pairs work from the front lever, one pair works from the rear. Rear caliper is a basic single-piston sliding caliper, just like the front wheel of your 1984 Civic.

So for bleeding, there is a bleed screw on the left caliper, fed from the front brake lever, a bleed screw on the right caliper also fed from the front, and a bleed screw on the right caliper fed from the rear brake. The rear caliper has one bleed screw. Bleed the rears as right front lower first, then rear, then bleed the fronts with left first, then upper right.

 
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