HF tire help needed.

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PJ4863

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Changing my first tire on the HF setup. How do you get the center bar to thread through the Tire? If you've got 10 min of your time, PM me your number!

 
I used 5/8" round steel stock and just dropped it in the hole that the bar that comes with was supposed to go in.

I also leave that whole arm that goes up and around right off.

Do yourself a favor and get some MojoBlocks

OR

make your own out of some plastic stock.

Here's a thread ... https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/155099-harbor-freight-motorcycle-tire-adapter-changes/

lots of info from lots of smart people (not me..) ... but the pictures i posted are lost.. sorry

Edit.. What are the chances PhilJet09 and I post up same time?... what he said...

 
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I did get the mojo bar and blocks. I have a short ratchet strap too. I was wondering what people did for that center bar, especially since the center holes didmt line up exactly. First try for me, wasn't bad. Took me about 45 min going slow and double checking. Also, today was cloudy, couldn't preheat the tire

 
I have the first gen tire changer with mojo blocks and things don't line up perfectly, but good enough to get the small diameter rod down through the bearings. I really don't know what the new version requires. I've never used the big, overhead arm thing.

 
I think I'm going to just source a 5/8th rod from homey depot. The overhead arm just got in The way more than it helped.

 
I bought all-thread rod from a Waltco Tools nearby because it was a lot cheaper than Home Depot.. I also vote mojolever. No need for the original vertical rod or upper bar. I just now spent a good hour wrestling a Pilot Road 2 onto my rear rim. There were no bad words. I mean it.

Not too many, anyway.

 
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I bought the Mojolever and the blocks. Great addition.

For the rod, I bought a length of 3/4" cold rolled steel rod, cut off one piece that was the length needed to just clear the funky top arm. I found a plastic pipe bushing that fit inside the arms hole and bored it out to 3/4" so the rod would fit through it. I drilled out the locking screw hole and tapped it so the upper arm lock screw works on the 3/4" rod. I had the rod threaded so it screws into the HF receptacle at the bottom.

With the Mojolever and the rod Car tires have been easy peasy for the Darksider that have availed themselves of my machine. Standard rears are no problem either. I had the remaining 3/4" rod turned down to fit my KLR's wheel bearings.

 
I was changing this Bridgestone T30 GT 155/90 tire today, and bent the HF stand and pulled out a floor anchor. Stiff stubborn tires! A 5/8 or 3/4 rod will fit through the bearings. I keep the reinforcing brace because, although it gets in the way, it avoids getting things off-center.

WXT7S6G.jpg


 
T30 GT Evos are *******s. I might try the RS3 next time around, but if I don't it will be another T30. If I do stick with the Bridgestone, I'm taking the wheels and tires to my dealer and letting them change them. Not fighting with T30s anymore.

 
Not to hijack my own thread... but 2 of the car tire places in town will mount a motorcycle tire on the appropriate rim for 10$, no balancing. Almost kept doing it that way. I'd pay that not to struggle.

 
I do my own tires use a car tire machine at work. Very hard to break the bead!!!! with hand tools.

Can't imagine using anything else. Must be very hard. I've done off road tube types no floor but not that hard.

Balance them with a Marc Parnes balancer.

I'm doing doing one on Friday. T-30 190 remove back to 180 stock. Great tire but don't last.

 
Removed 190 today what a PITA even with a machine. Don't know how you do it on a stand type....

Tore the bead removing it. Tough. T30 Evo GT.

I'll balance it tonight. Like to get it perfect.

9 day weekend for me. Vacation that is.

 
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