hi from pa

[RossKean]

I have the VIN already actually. Do you know a place to check it online or should I go into a dealer?

That recall PDF is useful. I'll have to check the vin plate to see if it's been "punched"

It looks like if we have a two week or so period of sub 30 degree PA weather, I should grab the propane heater and go ahead and rebuild all of these spider grounds.

These heated grips aren't factory. I can see that little box that seemingly all older bikes with aftermarket heating come with. Hopefully I don't need to re-wire that too! It also has aftermarket lights. My local dealer has an 06 FJR, 50k miles, but they wanted $7000 for it! I was naively interested until the salesman tried starting it and it cranked once and not again (dead battery). I asked how long it had been sitting, he said a day.... It had another non OEM fuse box under the passenger seat, lights, a phone charger, heated gear controller... I was figuring I'd just go ahead and have to redo everything... But it couldn't even do a test ride. He charged the battery, then I got it down the street and stalled it and it again couldn't crank. The battery must have been totally shot. But, after that my friend looked on marketplace and found this 08 for $4400 listed the same morning. Going to get it Saturday, I am excited. So all is well!

About the seat. I'm not very big, so I don't *need* a crazy good seat. I've put maybe 25k on my VFR800, 400 miles / 9 hours a day was when I'd start getting uncomfortable. We'll have to see how I get along with this FJR's stock seat. It might not ever need upgrading with me on it.

Having put 300k on 2nd gen FJRs, how do you feel about the gearboxes? I've heard from my friend who went from his older automatic one to his new manual 6 speed one and he says the gearbox will be a little noisier, less smooth, and might rev a little higher on highways. Thoughts?

Don't think you can check on-line, but a Yamaha dealer should be able to help.

Read this on servicing/repairing spiders
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/my-spider-bite-story.170085/
Gearbox is practically bulletproof. The 6-speeds are a few hundred RPM lower at highway speed for a little less buzz and marginally better fuel economy, but I never had any issues and certainly nowhere close to red line at any sane speed - even in fourth. There was a recall for most of the 6-speed transmissions - replaced some gears.

A few problems reported for bent shift forks in the five speed (2nd gear mostly), but usually attributed to abuse.

An aftermarket fuseblock (switched and unswitched circuits) is the way to go for electrical accessories. Just make sure it is all wired correctly. I hate having multiple leads hanging off my battery. Check out Fuzeblock FZ1 or some of the offerings from Eastern Beaver.

FJR is fairly kind to batteries. I never use a tender (just an occasional top-off during the winter). Still running the 12 year old, 100,000 mile OEM battery in my 2011.

 

[an-guy]

Hi, are you going to keep the VFR800 when you move over to a FJR. At 75 yr old I'm thinking of easing off long rides and just ride shorter trips and thought I'd like a VFR. My 2007 FJR is the one with auto clutch with electronic shift (like a paddle shift on a sports car) I love this feature as the gear change at speed is great! Anyway if you're thinking of selling the VFR800 let me know I'd be interested. I'm just over the border near Niagara Falls Canada.

So sorry! It's already being purchased by my friend But that's awesome that you're still riding at 75. I sure hope to still be riding when I'm 75. I seriously cannot recommend the VFR enough, I'm getting this FJR because I'm well over 25k miles a year and doing long trips, and my commute is basically a 3 hour away weekly trip. So I need that luggage and winterability and touring windscreen and such and such. But that VFR will always hold a place in my heart and I really hope it stays in my friend group. I will say it was kindof heavy for what it was, but it was an awesome bike. I can't think of another sport bike I would rather have.

 

[an-guy]

Don't think you can check on-line, but a Yamaha dealer should be able to help.

Read this on servicing/repairing spiders
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/my-spider-bite-story.170085/
Gearbox is practically bulletproof. The 6-speeds are a few hundred RPM lower at highway speed for a little less buzz and marginally better fuel economy, but I never had any issues and certainly nowhere close to red line at any sane speed - even in fourth. There was a recall for most of the 6-speed transmissions - replaced some gears.

A few problems reported for bent shift forks in the five speed (2nd gear mostly), but usually attributed to abuse.

An aftermarket fuseblock (switched and unswitched circuits) is the way to go for electrical accessories. Just make sure it is all wired correctly. I hate having multiple leads hanging off my battery. Check out Fuzeblock FZ1 or some of the offerings from Eastern Beaver.

FJR is fairly kind to batteries. I never use a tender (just an occasional top-off during the winter). Still running the 12 year old, 100,000 mile OEM battery in my 2011.

I'm gonna have a lot of bookmarks after this lol. Thanks for the info.

Good to know about the gearbox, and reliability. Maybe the 5th gear is taller and more akin to the 6th gear in the newer FJRs?

Yeah, honestly good that he used a fusebox in the one I looked at and it looked well made and installed, but still of course no bike should die after sitting for a day so something was definitely wrong... but I may end up putting one in mine.

I am slightly concerned about the stator/regulator lol. I exploded the stator or regulator out of my VFR800 because I had been riding in like 30~ degree weather weekly with a 45W heated blanket under my jacket lol. Plus a phone charger, maybe 15-20W. But that bike did have 59,000 miles and I heard of issues with the stator/regulator on the VFR forums. So, I am slightly concerned about how much load I can safely put on the FJR, and it will be used for the same 30 degree commute next winter... I'd like to run like 100W of heated gear and then maybe another 50W for lights/phone charger etc. Maybe a company makes a beefier system?

 

[BkerChuck]

I'm gonna have a lot of bookmarks after this lol. Thanks for the info.

Good to know about the gearbox, and reliability. Maybe the 5th gear is taller and more akin to the 6th gear in the newer FJRs?

Yeah, honestly good that he used a fusebox in the one I looked at and it looked well made and installed, but still of course no bike should die after sitting for a day so something was definitely wrong... but I may end up putting one in mine.

I am slightly concerned about the stator/regulator lol. I exploded the stator or regulator out of my VFR800 because I had been riding in like 30~ degree weather weekly with a 45W heated blanket under my jacket lol. Plus a phone charger, maybe 15-20W. But that bike did have 59,000 miles and I heard of issues with the stator/regulator on the VFR forums. So, I am slightly concerned about how much load I can safely put on the FJR, and it will be used for the same 30 degree commute next winter... I'd like to run like 100W of heated gear and then maybe another 50W for lights/phone charger etc. Maybe a company makes a beefier system?

I run a heated jacket liner, heated gloves, Clearwater Krista and Darla auxiliary lights, and a GPS doing long distance rallies. Never had an issue with either of my FJRs electrical systems. I ride year round provided the roads are clear and have ridden in single digit temps. Stress less, ride more.

 

[an-guy]

I run a heated jacket liner, heated gloves, Clearwater Krista and Darla auxiliary lights, and a GPS doing long distance rallies. Never had an issue with either of my FJRs electrical systems. I ride year round provided the roads are clear and have ridden in single digit temps. Stress less, ride more.

That's comforting to hear. Single digits? Fahrenheit? Dang. You got me beat by a lot, my coldest is 25F. I'm surprised the FJR handles temps that low. My first (400cc) bike would swing up and down and drop below idle temp when you let off the gas in the 30 degree range.

According to the comparison matrix, we should have 200W to work with. If I switch everything to LED, maybe could get that to 230W?

Either way, a voltmeter is something I should install...

 

[RossKean]

Even if you are running 100W of heated gear, it doesn't run at that wattage the whole time. Unless you have it cranked to 100%, it cycles on and off - I find on about one third of the time, depending on setting so average draw might be 33 watts. If you are over the stator threshold, the battery makes it up but you can only do that for so long. A voltmenter isn't a bad idea.

Note: Stator puts out 100% all the time, no matter what load. Excess goes to ground through the R/R (Unless you have an aftermarket series R/R which helps the stator...)

 

[BkerChuck]

That's comforting to hear. Single digits? Fahrenheit? Dang. You got me beat by a lot, my coldest is 25F. I'm surprised the FJR handles temps that low. My first (400cc) bike would swing up and down and drop below idle temp when you let off the gas in the 30 degree range.

According to the comparison matrix, we should have 200W to work with. If I switch everything to LED, maybe could get that to 230W?

Either way, a voltmeter is something I should install...

Shortly after I bought my first FJR, a 2007, I attended a Ride to Eat that was organized on this very forum. That's where I met my first Iron Butt Rally finisher and heard tales of long distance rallies and realized it sounded like my sick idea of a good time. My FJRs have both been set up for that purpose and I put a decent amount of mile on per year. Highest was 2018 when I hit just shy of 25k in one year. I ride year round. I even broke down and bought my own tire changing equipment and learned to do my own tires. Like Ross has pointed out unless you have your heated gear cranked to the max it's not drawing that all the time. I've rarely had mine past about 50-75% and have never had an issue with starting beyond my own stupidity of hitting the kill switch with all of my lights on high beam for too long during a rally where I had to take a picture at night.

Ride more, stress less. These bikes are almost as reliable as a hammer.

 

[an-guy]

Even if you are running 100W of heated gear, it doesn't run at that wattage the whole time. Unless you have it cranked to 100%, it cycles on and off - I find on about one third of the time, depending on setting so average draw might be 33 watts. If you are over the stator threshold, the battery makes it up but you can only do that for so long. A voltmenter isn't a bad idea.

Note: Stator puts out 100% all the time, no matter what load. Excess goes to ground through the R/R (Unless you have an aftermarket series R/R which helps the stator...)

waitwaitwaitwait. The stator, is running at 100% load, like full voltage and current, even when not loaded or fully loaded? Is that true? That would be wild. Definitely not something I knew.

Noted about the gear. You guys' testimonies puts me at ease running heated gear. I am excited to get this bike

 

[Goodman4]

I'm exited for you to get the FJR. You sound like a good fit for it. I just ran across this thread and will make a couple late comments.

The weight and balance of the FJR is something you have to be careful with as an "average height" person. I am 5-10 and as I get older sometimes the FJR catches me by surprise in parking lots if I'm not careful. I've owned my 07 for 11 years and have dropped it twice turning around. It's a right of passage, I think. Frame sliders help, but not the mirrors. You just have to plan ahead and not get off balance. I almost had a really bad turn around on a hill in West Virginia 2-up. I would have dropped it over into a ravine but somehow managed to lock my leg enough to hold it up. In normal parking lot situations it is usually better to just get out of the way and let it fall to avoid pulling something or twisting an ankle. Dropping at zero mph is more embarrassing than being a big deal.

As to the radio, my experience is with the radio on my goldwing and on a harley ultra glide rental. The ONLY time I loved the radio on the wing was riding through the park in the black hills of South Dakota because the speed was slow and it added to the ride. All other times the headphones are far better and at highway speed the radio was completely useless. People who like the radio loud on the bike, just want OTHER people to hear what they are listening to, IMHO. Earplugs are a must for me as a musician, so if I'm wanting to listen to something, I wear plug-phones, which are just wired headphones that seal out other noise and fit like earplugs so they don't hurt after long hours. I could never hear well enough with my cardo and regular earplugs, but then I found Alpine MotoSafe earplugs that allow me to hear most music and definitely spoken audio great but blocks wind noise. We bought them to hear each other 2-up but I found I can even listen to audio books on the cardo when on the slab of a long ride with them.

I digress. I hope you enjoy the FJR.

 

[an-guy]

I'm exited for you to get the FJR. You sound like a good fit for it. I just ran across this thread and will make a couple late comments.

The weight and balance of the FJR is something you have to be careful with as an "average height" person. I am 5-10 and as I get older sometimes the FJR catches me by surprise in parking lots if I'm not careful. I've owned my 07 for 11 years and have dropped it twice turning around. It's a right of passage, I think. Frame sliders help, but not the mirrors. You just have to plan ahead and not get off balance. I almost had a really bad turn around on a hill in West Virginia 2-up. I would have dropped it over into a ravine but somehow managed to lock my leg enough to hold it up. In normal parking lot situations it is usually better to just get out of the way and let it fall to avoid pulling something or twisting an ankle. Dropping at zero mph is more embarrassing than being a big deal.

As to the radio, my experience is with the radio on my goldwing and on a harley ultra glide rental. The ONLY time I loved the radio on the wing was riding through the park in the black hills of South Dakota because the speed was slow and it added to the ride. All other times the headphones are far better and at highway speed the radio was completely useless. People who like the radio loud on the bike, just want OTHER people to hear what they are listening to, IMHO. Earplugs are a must for me as a musician, so if I'm wanting to listen to something, I wear plug-phones, which are just wired headphones that seal out other noise and fit like earplugs so they don't hurt after long hours. I could never hear well enough with my cardo and regular earplugs, but then I found Alpine MotoSafe earplugs that allow me to hear most music and definitely spoken audio great but blocks wind noise. We bought them to hear each other 2-up but I found I can even listen to audio books on the cardo when on the slab of a long ride with them.

I digress. I hope you enjoy the FJR.

Thanks! And yeah... when I took my friend's FJR to Tennessee, I definitely felt it was heavier than my VFR. But... it feels like the weight is lower down. My concern is just moving it around more than dropping it honestly. Especially backing up, that I did struggle with and need help once or twice so I will need to be more planned about how I park and stuff I will say I've dropped my VFR probably 10 times. The slider took it all, and it's still beautiful, but I was definitely the guy who dropped my bike the most. Always just in parking lots, putting it on the CS, that kind of stuff. Thankfully no fairings ever touched the ground. But because of that, I'm sure it'll get dropped, I'll be purchasing engine and sidebag guards.

Good to know about the radio. I figured a Cardo would sound better, but yeah they don't sound good that's for sure lol. Sounds like someone holding earbuds right above your ears. I'd like to someday modify a helmet and see if I can put over ear headphone drivers in the sides of the helmet lol.

 

[Mikesgts1000]

So sorry! It's already being purchased by my friend But that's awesome that you're still riding at 75. I sure hope to still be riding when I'm 75. I seriously cannot recommend the VFR enough, I'm getting this FJR because I'm well over 25k miles a year and doing long trips, and my commute is basically a 3 hour away weekly trip. So I need that luggage and winterability and touring windscreen and such and such. But that VFR will always hold a place in my heart and I really hope it stays in my friend group. I will say it was kindof heavy for what it was, but it was an awesome bike. I can't think of another sport bike I would rather have.

I'm sure you'll enjoy the FJR it's a great bike for long haul rides and I find without the side boxes on it's not too bad around town and short distance hops.

 

[Mikesgts1000]

Thanks! And yeah... when I took my friend's FJR to Tennessee, I definitely felt it was heavier than my VFR. But... it feels like the weight is lower down. My concern is just moving it around more than dropping it honestly. Especially backing up, that I did struggle with and need help once or twice so I will need to be more planned about how I park and stuff I will say I've dropped my VFR probably 10 times. The slider took it all, and it's still beautiful, but I was definitely the guy who dropped my bike the most. Always just in parking lots, putting it on the CS, that kind of stuff. Thankfully no fairings ever touched the ground. But because of that, I'm sure it'll get dropped, I'll be purchasing engine and sidebag guards.

Good to know about the radio. I figured a Cardo would sound better, but yeah they don't sound good that's for sure lol. Sounds like someone holding earbuds right above your ears. I'd like to someday modify a helmet and see if I can put over ear headphone drivers in the sides of the helmet lol.

Hi, I use Bosch noise canceling ear pods with my Apple phone playing tunes or GPS instructions. I find it good to remove wind noise and fit good under the full faced helmet, only down side is they are expensive!

 

[an-guy]

I got it!!!

Me and three friends went up Friday night two up on my friends FJR. Got to a camp ground in north PA at like 1AM, slept, then woke up and went up to Rochester to get it.

We got there, bike looks great. Fires right up, and my mechanic friend (who owns the other FJR) goes for a test ride, rear brake petal goes straight down. Lol. "Just inspected last week".

Front tire has like 15 PSI lol. My friend negotiates him down to 4100, and we're on our way...to Niagara Falls Spend an afternoon there then get back to the camp site and ride home the next day

Bike did great. No rear brakes but we bled them a little and got them to come back a little but I have a new rear master cylinder on the way. It had some foam grip covers that drove me nuts, cut them off. The grips aren't glued down, I plan on fixing that today and taking another crack at bleeding the brakes. And it needs some aftermarket stuff rewired.

The fixit list is long, the mod list is longer I will have many questions... Here's three I have so far.

How to adjust idle speed? It idles at like 800 rpm and could be easy to stall
How to tighten throttle cable? Has like 1/4 turn of play
Sometimes when going very easy on throttle, it gets choppy. What's that about?

The answers are probably in these forums, but I haven't had the time to go digging yet.

Overall, I've been loving this bike so much. It is much easier to handle than expected and is a lot of fun and has quite a bit of grunt. And the turning radius is significantly sharper than my VFR

Thanks all!

 

[rbentnail]

Several answers you are looking for are in the owners manual

 

[BkerChuck]

If the bike didn't come with the owner's manual Yamaha offers them on their website as a free download. I recommend downloading it to your phone or a tablet where you can easily access it when needed.

When bleeding the rear brakes you need to remember they're linked ABS. Bleed the lower screw on the right side front caliper first then the rear caliper. Those are tied together and the rear pedal operates both of them. There is also a procedure to actuate the ABS module and that's important. You want to move fluid through the ABS block or after some time the spool valves in that block will freeze up and you no longer have ABS. Your brakes will still work and it is safe enough to ride just no ABS function. I fought with my 2007 on that.

Adjust throttle cables and idle speed before worrying about any choppiness. Proper adjustments might alleviate most if not all of those issues.

You mentioned being near Chambersburg, PA? PM me if you need help as I'm only about an hour from you. If schedule allows I could always ride over and lend a hand.

 

[fastpappy]

Congrats on your new ride. Enjoy!

 

[rbentnail]

If the bike didn't come with the owner's manual Yamaha offers them on their website as a free download. I recommend downloading it to your phone or a tablet where you can easily access it when needed.

Yep. Free pdf download https://library.ymcapps.net/library/om/app/index.html?baseCode=6150&langId=02

 

[an-guy]

If the bike didn't come with the owner's manual Yamaha offers them on their website as a free download. I recommend downloading it to your phone or a tablet where you can easily access it when needed.

When bleeding the rear brakes you need to remember they're linked ABS. Bleed the lower screw on the right side front caliper first then the rear caliper. Those are tied together and the rear pedal operates both of them. There is also a procedure to actuate the ABS module and that's important. You want to move fluid through the ABS block or after some time the spool valves in that block will freeze up and you no longer have ABS. Your brakes will still work and it is safe enough to ride just no ABS function. I fought with my 2007 on that.

Adjust throttle cables and idle speed before worrying about any choppiness. Proper adjustments might alleviate most if not all of those issues.

You mentioned being near Chambersburg, PA? PM me if you need help as I'm only about an hour from you. If schedule allows I could always ride over and lend a hand.

Noted about ABS! I didn't think about that. I knew about the combined rear brake, but not about the ABS. I'll have to do some digging to know how to actuate the ABS module when it comes time to possibly replace that rear master cylinder.

Throttle play appears to be in spec now. The bike had some foam grip covers and they were making it horrible to control. I don't know how anyone uses them honestly.

The idle speed does still need adjustment. My understanding from other forum posts is it's on the back of the throttle body which can be accessed under the tank. A throttle body sync may be necessary too. I did download the user manual, which was unfortunately not included. I will say it's more detailed than most user manuals. But I'm not sure if I'm just looking in the wrong place but I can't find any actual help of how to do procedures. Everything is just "this is what it should be, if it's not, have your Yamaha dealer fix it"....yeah...NO!

I've searched up and down and even done a "CTRL+F" search for the word throttle and cannot find it. It's my impression that it's not here.

I appreciate your offer to help out! I'll probably take like 7 cracks at issues myself first but it's good that there is somebody experienced with FJRs close by.

I have gotten some good progress going so far. I changed the oil and coolant yesterday. The coolant looked and smelled like some form of bootleg Dr. Pepper and coffee mixed together... I left the taste test up to some bush in my yard, we'll see if it dies or not. Anyways I flushed it and got some regular blue automotive coolant in. I changed the oil and used Shell Rotella 15-40 T4. I know, I know, weird choice. My mechanic/good friend let me know that 15-40 works with most motorcycles, and the shell T4 and T6 stuff is actually rated for wet clutches while being like 1/3rd the cost of motorcycle oil.

We'll see how it does. So far it does actually shift a lot smoother, which is embarrassing, god knows what for oil was in it previously.

Next up I want some creature comforts. A phone mount and for the accessories to be rewired in a nicer way to start, then I want to tackle idle speed and possibly a TB sync/spark plugs (or pay my mechanic to do it, I don't know how to sync throttle bodies!)

 

[BkerChuck]

Noted about ABS! I didn't think about that. I knew about the combined rear brake, but not about the ABS. I'll have to do some digging to know how to actuate the ABS module when it comes time to possibly replace that rear master cylinder.

Throttle play appears to be in spec now. The bike had some foam grip covers and they were making it horrible to control. I don't know how anyone uses them honestly.

The idle speed does still need adjustment. My understanding from other forum posts is it's on the back of the throttle body which can be accessed under the tank. A throttle body sync may be necessary too. I did download the user manual, which was unfortunately not included. I will say it's more detailed than most user manuals. But I'm not sure if I'm just looking in the wrong place but I can't find any actual help of how to do procedures. Everything is just "this is what it should be, if it's not, have your Yamaha dealer fix it"....yeah...NO!
View attachment 5075
I've searched up and down and even done a "CTRL+F" search for the word throttle and cannot find it. It's my impression that it's not here.

I appreciate your offer to help out! I'll probably take like 7 cracks at issues myself first but it's good that there is somebody experienced with FJRs close by.

I have gotten some good progress going so far. I changed the oil and coolant yesterday. The coolant looked and smelled like some form of bootleg Dr. Pepper and coffee mixed together... I left the taste test up to some bush in my yard, we'll see if it dies or not. Anyways I flushed it and got some regular blue automotive coolant in. I changed the oil and used Shell Rotella 15-40 T4. I know, I know, weird choice. My mechanic/good friend let me know that 15-40 works with most motorcycles, and the shell T4 and T6 stuff is actually rated for wet clutches while being like 1/3rd the cost of motorcycle oil.

We'll see how it does. So far it does actually shift a lot smoother, which is embarrassing, god knows what for oil was in it previously.

Next up I want some creature comforts. A phone mount and for the accessories to be rewired in a nicer way to start, then I want to tackle idle speed and possibly a TB sync/spark plugs (or pay my mechanic to do it, I don't know how to sync throttle bodies!)

I've run grip puppies on my grips for years. Added thickness and foam to dampen vibration help me a lot. LOL.

Owner's manual doesn't show how to do a TBS, that's covered in the service manual because they don't expect the average owner to do it themselves. Most FJR owners are not average. I have vacuum gauges and can help with that if needed, it's really not that hard. Shell Rotella T-6 is what I used in my 2007 and several IBR riders run it for the increased possible oil change interval it can allow. I know one owner who sent oil samples of it to Blackstone Labs for testing and he was told he could easily go 11k miles between changes. Personally, I can't do that, but it might just be a mental block. T-6 is the full synthetic and has been one of the oils of choice here. Spark plugs are simple and there's no reason you can't do them yourself unless you are really mechanically deficient. Again, I'm willing to help if our schedules work out.

Accessory wiring is often best done with an auxiliary fuse block like the FZ-1 or similar. I have one under my pillion seat and most of my stuff wired from there.

 

[an-guy]

I've run grip puppies on my grips for years. Added thickness and foam to dampen vibration help me a lot. LOL.

Owner's manual doesn't show how to do a TBS, that's covered in the service manual because they don't expect the average owner to do it themselves. Most FJR owners are not average. I have vacuum gauges and can help with that if needed, it's really not that hard. Shell Rotella T-6 is what I used in my 2007 and several IBR riders run it for the increased possible oil change interval it can allow. I know one owner who sent oil samples of it to Blackstone Labs for testing and he was told he could easily go 11k miles between changes. Personally, I can't do that, but it might just be a mental block. T-6 is the full synthetic and has been one of the oils of choice here. Spark plugs are simple and there's no reason you can't do them yourself unless you are really mechanically deficient. Again, I'm willing to help if our schedules work out.

Accessory wiring is often best done with an auxiliary fuse block like the FZ-1 or similar. I have one under my pillion seat and most of my stuff wired from there.

Really? Huh. Maybe it's a thing with our bodies. They made my thumbs hurt. Dampening the vibration makes a lot of sense.

Yeah, I didn't expect really much of that information to be in the owners manual, but everyone was telling me it was in the owners manual. I get the whole RTFM thing, but it's....not in the manual, in a polite way

That's crazy about Rotella T6! I don't even run my truck past 5K, 11k on a high revving bike with a wet clutch is crazy. I will still stick to maybe the 5k range, but it's better than the 2-3K of my VFR I think I'll get T6 next time, since it seems a little more suitable and freaking 24$ a bottle, why not. Way better than 50$ for 4 QTs.

I'm not sure how I'll tackle plugs and TBS. Plugs I can do, TBS not. My mechanic friend is currently doing the same thing on his 22 FJR so I might have him do it. I do appreciate the offer though, I might take you up on it still. I'm in town most weekends, during the week, I'm up in Bloomsburg PA. One of the reasons why I bought the bike lol

Yeah, I'm either going to be lazy and just reconnect everything to the battery in a much neater way and redo some splices the previous owner or whoever did. Or I'm gonna go the fusebox route. Fusebox route is my preference. Not sure about location, under pillion has plenty of room but I'd have to run a lot of wire back and forth for the grips/phone chargers/lights etc. But I will say that the other 06 FJR I saw at Twigg Cycles in Hagerstown had a metal decent looking fuse box under the pillion seat. But....that bike also would not start after sitting for a day and could hardly stay running. List price was 7200. It had 51k miles. I'll say I'm glad I didn't purchase that bike