HiWay Pegs - DIY

[scootman286]

Happy Holidays to you all!

I have made some HiWay pegs for my 2007 FJR A model. I need some help finding some bolts I need to bring it together and thought I should ask the crowd for any input about where to get some metric hardware.

I need an M12 x 1.25 x 70 (or longer) Countersunk Flathead screw. I found some M12 x 1.75 but obviously, that won't work.

Anybody know a good source for bolts? I have stumped a few houses already so I hope I won't have to cut one myself. I figured I could maybe get an M14 in whatever pitch and then cut it down to the M12 x 1.25 with a die.

Here are some pictures of what I have come up with, any feedback (good or bad) is always welcome.

The top bolt will require tapping the frame to accept the 1/4-28 bolt (anti-rotation and some strength)

They will mount on this bolt (front mount bolt) and be angled to align with the opening in the plastic.

 

[Silent]

Clickie for enlightenment

 

[scootman286]

Clickie for enlightenment

Thanks Silent....I am still waiting to hear back from them. The holidays have put a damper on a lot of places....but that is the second recommendation to check with them, so hopefully, they can get it for me.

 

[lnewlf]

Looks good-how would the frame hold up in a tipover??$$

 

[Shifter125]

When you find your bolts, please post installed pics. Looks great to me. Would love to have them. Nice work.

 

[scootman286]

Looks good-how would the frame hold up in a tipover??$$

Not sure. They are where you would put sliders. With the M12 and 1/4 inch bolt, they should be pretty strong, but will likely shear if the hit is hard enough.

I am having trouble finding a better location and I certainly spend more time upright....lol....so I am willing to take the chance.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Homemade Kommie Floor Boards??? Hmmmm... What'll you pinko's think of next?

Ya might just have something there scoot.

:jester:

 

[haas]

Happy Holidays to you all!
I have made some HiWay pegs for my 2007 FJR A model. I need some help finding some bolts I need to bring it together and thought I should ask the crowd for any input about where to get some metric hardware.

I need an M12 x 1.25 x 70 (or longer) Countersunk Flathead screw. I found some M12 x 1.75 but obviously, that won't work.

Anybody know a good source for bolts? I have stumped a few houses already so I hope I won't have to cut one myself. I figured I could maybe get an M14 in whatever pitch and then cut it down to the M12 x 1.25 with a die.

Here are some pictures of what I have come up with, any feedback (good or bad) is always welcome.

The top bolt will require tapping the frame to accept the 1/4-28 bolt (anti-rotation and some strength)

They will mount on this bolt (front mount bolt) and be angled to align with the opening in the plastic.

Pegs look good, but if you havn't already thought of it, deburr the crap out of them! Get on a loop sander and round over all the edges - your boots will thank you!

Take a look at Mcmaster Carr for hardware - if they don't have it, nobody makes it. I get alot from them for my machine shop. Nice job on the pegs - good idea.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

I need an M12 x 1.25 x 70 (or longer) Flathead screw to go in a Countersunk hole.

I think that's what you meant.

The top bolt hole will require tapping the frame to accept the 1/4-28 bolt (anti-rotation and some strength)

I don't know if that's a good idea. Whatever strength/rigidity it adds to your bracket comes at the expense of reduced strength in the bike's frame.

You might be able to limit the rotation by pocketing the back of your part.

Moosehead designed some really nice Highway Pegs/Sliders <Link>

 

[Gizmo]

Dude, try your local HW store, home depot, etc...If they don't have what you need, I'd be surprised if they don't have something close that you can adapt. BTW, nice design.

 

[garauld]

if they don't have it, nobody makes it.

Not really accurate. Maryland Metric can get a lot of special stuff - I get my long bolts there delivered from usually Italy, but they usually only deal by 100 pc boxes. Their service is sucky also. In a pinch, you could buy a couple short SST bolts; one FH with a 1.75 pitch and another hex head with 1.25 pitch and cut/tig weld them together with 316 filler rod to make a single bolt to suit your needs.

 

[scootman286]

Wow....mooseheads look great....I will contact him and see if he has a line on hardware.

Thanks for the suggestions, I always win, just a matter of when.......

 

[just roy]

while i like your design i don't believe you understand the function of the bolt hole you are trying to use. on one side (i think its throttle side can't remember) that bolt holds a boss to the side of the engine which the frame clamps onto. this boss will stick out varying distances due to frame tolerances and needs to be allowed to float to its position before clamping the frame on to it. not allowing this will cause stress and vibration. you need to make sure that your mount contacts the boss and not the frame so that it doesn't try to pull or push the frame out of position. i may have missed something in your design and be way off, if so disregard this post.

 

[scootman286]

while i like your design i don't believe you understand the function of the bolt hole you are trying to use. on one side (i think its throttle side can't remember) that bolt holds a boss to the side of the engine which the frame clamps onto. this boss will stick out varying distances due to frame tolerances and needs to be allowed to float to its position before clamping the frame on to it. not allowing this will cause stress and vibration. you need to make sure that your mount contacts the boss and not the frame so that it doesn't try to pull or push the frame out of position. i may have missed something in your design and be way off, if so disregard this post.

My design is just to replace the upper bolt with one longer so it can go through my bracket and then back to where it goes.

Is there an adjustment I will lose if I simply remove and replace the bolt?

I do see a pinch bolt on the right side of the bike, that needs to be loosened to remove the right side upper mount bolt, is this to allow for adjustment, etc?

Thanks for the cause to pause. that's what i am looking for....

 

[38 Ford]

Looks like lots of time spent on it but how is the peg going to fold once you install the Rubber on the peg? Have a great week Harold

 

[scootman286]

Nice responses all, thanks.....the pegs will not have rubber on them. If they are too slippery, I will cut some grooves in the rod where my shoe contacts so I can create some grip. I wanted these to be as low profile as they could be and still meet the needs.

I am still searching for the bolt and will give it until next week when everyone comes back to work fully.

I also researched the spacer on the right hand side of the bike. It seems the pinch bolt holds the spacer so if I don't loosen the spacer, there should be no problem with compromising the location of the motor. If anyone knows different, please chime in. I am simply going to remove and replace the bolt. Moosehead (Mike) has confirmed that he has no ill effects from the installation of his 'pegs/slider'....

I have started rounding them off as suggested (thanks for that, I did not think of my boots). I like they the way they are starting to look. I was not sure of the rounding, but it looks great.

I will post up once I get them done and installed. If I cannot find the bolt, I will either cut my own or use a hex head and recess it in the bracket. I really would rather have the countersunk.

Thanks again all..........

 

[Silent]

This might just be to simple, or to darn expensive, but frame sliders generally come with the longer bolts that are required to mount them. Perhaps you could go that route?

 

[Checkswrecks]

I found that the places selling tractor parts typically have bigger metric hardware. Just a guess and a Google search but try these guys: Noble Ford Tractor Inc 701 Kings Row Ste 39B San Jose, CA (408) 292-4041

Bob

 

[adaniel]

Scoots way is by far more proper, but I went with the cheap temporary route for the occasional LD stretch.

SCHD 80 PVC with some rubatex on the outside. Drilled and tapped the delrin sliders to accept a small set screw. The pvc (I believe 3/4") was almost a perfect fit for the ID of the slider with minimal play. While strong enough to support my legs plus some stretch I figured it would brake away if the worst should happen. Not perfect or as nice as the other means discussed, but easy, cheap, and provide some relief with easy removal.