Hobby - Gun Stock Refinishing a few examples

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John,

Nice work there! You have a talent for bringing back the older stuff. It is amazing the character of some of the older stocks that is covered up by years of neglect, oil, grime, etc. I have done a couple of M1 Garand stocks with Linseed oil. Not shiny, but back to the original state for a service rifle. My latest endeavor has been a custom stock for my 600 and 1,000 yard long range prone rifle. I bought a laminated stock rough inletted for the Remington action which is fitted with a match grade stainless medium Palma taper barrel. I finished the inletting and free floated the barrel channel, then pillar bedded the action into the stock with Devcon steel compound. Then came the shaping of the stock cheekpiece and grip area to fit my hand properly. I then finished it with about 7 coats of True Oil. Not finished to a high gloss because you want a more satin finish that provides better grip when sling shooting. Here are some pics.

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JOhn, What are you using for the finish? I have a stock for my Garand that I got through DCM (formerly CMP) that needs a nice finish as it's bare from them. I had to do the finish sanding on the inletting to get the hardware to fit (inlet undersized for a tighter final fit) but I've balked on how to finish it.

 
JOhn, What are you using for the finish? I have a stock for my Garand that I got through DCM (formerly CMP) that needs a nice finish as it's bare from them. I had to do the finish sanding on the inletting to get the hardware to fit (inlet undersized for a tighter final fit) but I've balked on how to finish it.
I prefer the Matte or Satin finish I get out of using Natural Tung Oil.

It is a raw product and not the same as the typical Tung Oils one finds at the big box stores.

I first sand the stock with #220 then #320 paper, blow it clean then saturate the whole stock with a 50/50 mixture of the Tung oil and Mineral Spirits. I keep the whole stock wet for 30 minutes, this seals the wood and is the only protection the inletting receives.

I then let it dry for about an hour, rub off any excess and daub out any puddles that may have accumulated in the inletting. Let dry 12 hours and recoat the exterior and keep it wet for 30 minutes.

Same process, rub dry with an old tee shirt after an hour and let dry overnight.

Next step is to fill the grain. I do that by taking full strength Tung Oil and #220 grit wet/dry paper. Put some oil on the stock and sand it into a slurry using the paper over a sanding block. Leave the slurry on the surface and let dry overnight. Wipe dried slurry residue off across the grain. Repeat.

Shift to #320 paper and repeat process twice.

Shift to #400 paper and repeat twice.

Shift to #800 paper and repeat twice.

Shift to #1200 paper and repeat twice.

Use straight mineral spirits and #0000 steel wool to clean off any remaining residue.

Scrub out any checkering with a brass wire brush and mineral spirits.

Let dry 24 hours.

Apply and rub in a coat of Tung Oil. Rub until just tacky then polish off with a nylon stocking. Let dry 12-24 hours.

Repeat two more times.

let dry about 3 days after third coat.

Polish with a fine rubbing or polishing compound that does not contain silicone.

Buff with Muslin Dish Towel.

Repeat.

Sometimes I'll add another coat of tung oil and then repolish. Its a feel thing at this point.

 
06FJRed those look real nice.

I have done a few jobs with Truoil but have found it to be negatively affected by sweat, sun tan lotion, bug repellent and rain.

It is also too glossy for my taste.

The Natural Tung Oil is less glossy and considerably more water resistant. No problems with sweat, bug repellent etc. to date.

 
06FJRed those look real nice. I have done a few jobs with Truoil but have found it to be negatively affected by sweat, sun tan lotion, bug repellent and rain. It is also too glossy for my taste. The Natural Tung Oil is less glossy and considerably more water resistant. No problems with sweat, bug repellent etc. to date.
And I take it the Tung Oil resists most gun/barrel cleaners? Anything to watch out for there?

 
Tung Oil stands up pretty well to barrel cleaners if not much gets on it and it is wiped off quickly.

Most of what I do are shotguns which are usually disassembled for cleaning so it is not usually an issue.

Some of the really hot rifle barrel cleaners will literally take chrome off a trailer hitch.

 
I always tear down on wooden-stocked firearms to keep that from happening. With some hardware (like on a Garrand) there are metal fixtures you keep on the wood but you also don't uses bore cleaners on those bits; just a light wipe of oil.

 
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