Hotwired ignition, worked, no worked

[artistonFJR]

I know another F'n ignition question, but only KIND OF... see, I did the hotwire and it worked, and I started her up and I was happy. Then I realized the power was on continuously but I wanted to be able to shut it off so I inserted a toggle switch as recommended/shown (thanks HiYo).. and it worked... twice then nothing... NOTHING... so I re-spliced the red'n'brown wires like I did firstly, but got nothing. I checked all fuses including the big 30 amp green ones... all A-OK. What am I missing? Anyone know why there is no power going to the splice?

I have her torn apart in the garage... all I wanted to do was get her to the dealer to get THE IGNITION replaced... They got one in in two days and are going to replace it and re-key it, all I have to do is get it there.

WIRE GODS PLEASE HELP ME!...

I'll check back, so thank you very much, in advance.

Oh, it's an 07, if that matters.

Chris

 

[FJRay]

There is a 50 amp main fuze located in front of the batt. you may want to check it. That is where it is on the 03.

 

[Danno]

There is a 50 amp main fuze located in front of the batt. you may want to check it. That is where it is on the 03.

That is correct. The 50 amp fuse is way in front of the fuse block and a bit tricky to get to.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Artiston,

You are welcome. I am sorry to hear you had to use the kit. Did you use a heavy enough toggle for the load??

Best wishes on your successful fix.

 

[artistonFJR]

thank you to all for the responses. this place really is a lifeline.

50 amp, huh? Didn't see it but wasn't looking for it because I didn't know it was there. Is a 50 amp available at regular auto parts places or is this special ordered from somewhere far far away? Never had to buy anything more than a 30 amp...

I'll go look in a minute...

Any idea why it would blow (if that is the case) if I used a toggle... and are there bigger toggles (stupid question, but I got the biggest one Pep Boys had hanging around.) How big (amp-wise) should it be. I had/used a 15 amp.

I think I will replace the fuse if that ends up being the culprit, then just wirenutting the two wires for the trip to Yammie, unwiring, and leave the rest to them... ( I should have left good enough alone and kept it running when I first wired them up. Too much fiddlefukkin around... I'm famous for that.

Think I'll go play in the garage...

I'll hoist y'all a beer for the responses!

Chris

 

[escapefjrtist]

If you find a popped fuse go to Napa and get part # 782-2030, 50 FLF/PAL. Don't remember the cost off hand but don't recall it being too bad.

Good luck with the troubleshooting.

--G

 

[TheAxeman]

Artist, did you hot wire just the two big wires and leave the two blue wires attached to the switch? Thats what I did so now when I start it I have to flick the toggle switch but also turn the key in the ignition for it to start.

Stupid question probably but is the bike in gear with the kickstand down or is the kill switch on?

 

[Zorlac]

"How big (amp-wise) should it be. I had/used a 15 amp."

Ummm, I guess bigger than that when you're examining 30 and 50 amp fuses?

 

[NightShine]

Did the amperage fry your toggle switch open, artistonFJR?

Could a switch lead have shorted to ground and blown the 50-amp fuse?

Perhaps short the leads of the toggle switch together to get it out of the circuit. If the bike still won't start, then it's not the switch.

 

[artistonFJR]

Bike in Neutral, kickstand down, red kill switch in proper position... only change was inclusion of toggle.. and it worked briefly too.

Actually, Zorlac, when it comes to electronics I am very much like the kid in your avatar, but I do love a good mocking. (Oh crap, and it's Friday).

Axe, I actually had a good thing going with the two wires nutted together.. then added the toggle which worked as well, all with the two blue wires in their original unmolested state... haven't touched 'em. toggle on, key on, started right up... twice... then nothing, so re-wired the R&B back together as I did in the first place and nothing... now I am on to the big fuse idea. Has to wait until I get home from work, but I'l be picking up a 50 fuse on the way just to have a spare.

Nightshine, toggle might be fried... think I'll go back to the straight hotwire and just get her to Yammie.

Thanks everyone.

C

 

[ponyfool]

Is it possible your little wires came loose too?

 

[rammer9460]

Is it possable that one of the wires is "hot" all the time and the other is not. If that's the case, and you used a toggle switch that had screws and lugs on the bottom, could the switch have touched other metal to ground the hot wire and blow the fuse???

Erik.

 

[artistonFJR]

Well, the immediate crisis is over, so it would seem. I DID replace the big 5 bizillion amp fuse just north of the battery, and crossed my red'n'brown wires (and my fingers) and viola! Christmas lights all over the console, and she fired right up at the push of the button.

Undid the wires and wire nutted each one... I'll re-cross them on Tuesday and ride her to Yammie.

Thank you all for the help and the ideas... and the comments.

Chris

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Artiston,

YEAH!! Glad you found the problem. At least you can still ride it until the permanent fix is in place.

Have a Great Weekend.

 

[adaniel]

Is it possable that one of the wires is "hot" all the time and the other is not.

Yes...one ® is hot and tied directly to the battery. Some care needs to be taken when playing with the wires

 

[whitetrashoutlaw84@gmail.]

I'm stuck on the side of the road. I need to know what wires from the ignition connector plug I can strip and twist together to get the bike to start back.

 

[torch]

What year bike?

If you have a Gen1 (most likely to suffer) then join the Red with the Brown with a blue stripe and join the white with a blue stripe to the blue with a yellow stripe.