How did you cut your windshield

[khrome]

I have noticed a lot of people with shorty shields for summer. I have a taller shield on order for winter and may cut my stock down a little for summer. So I was wondering how others did thiers? Do they cut them at a glass shop or what? Did you do it yourself at home?

Thanks for all responses

khrome

 

[madmike2]

I've cut a number of "plastic" windshields. I use some of the "blue painters tape" to protect the windshield and to make it easy to scribe or trace the intended shape. If its a small trim, I have used a belt sander. If a larger cut, I've used an electric jig saw (others have used a dremel-type tool).

I leave enough extra so that I can file or sand to the "finish" size, then use increasingly finer sandpaper (ending with 400 wet sanding) on the edge, being careful to not "sand/scratch" the clear face of the 'shield. The last step I do is to chuck a polishing wheel in my drill and use some compound to burnish/polish the edge.

 

[evil_henchman]

Click on this link

 

[Coyote]

Anyone have a tracing of the Cal Scientific holes they can share?? :huh:

I think I'm ready to perform surgery :butcher:

 

[khrome]

If a larger cut, I've used an electric jig saw

Which type of blade did you use ? I will assume a fine tooth?

thanks

Khrome

 

[evil_henchman]

Anyone have a tracing of the Cal Scientific holes they can share?? :huh:
I think I'm ready to perform surgery :butcher:

I just looked at the pictures and made my own, lots of handy reference points on the shield. Just make one template and flip it over. That way it's guaranteed to be the same hole on each side. Well, as good as your hand will allow B)

 

[odot]

Which type of blade did you use ? I will assume a fine tooth?

My tooth brush is medium...wanna use it?

 

[madmike2]

If a larger cut, I've used an electric jig saw

Which type of blade did you use ? I will assume a fine tooth?

thanks

Khrome

Ah-yup....the hacksaw blade. No use in getting in a hurry. :blink:

 

[05fjrBluedevil]

I have noticed a lot of people with shorty shields for summer. I have a taller shield on order for winter and may cut my stock down a little for summer. So I was wondering how others did thiers? Do they cut them at a glass shop or what? Did you do it yourself at home?
Thanks for all responses

khrome

I used a 10 mitre saw, it has a laser guide, so it helped stay on the lines, I drew on the duct tape. After cutting it, I layed the cut part back across the shield and drew another line to get it looking close to a stock shield radious, then cut it again... over all other than i have not bothered to sand it or remove the duct tape yet it looks good and allows great air flow for summer riding.... but make sure you have your rain gear with you incase it rains because it offers little to no rain protection.....

Here is what yours might look like once you cut it...

 

[clutchless1]

If you want to cut the windshield down or just add a vent into it. Measure where you want to install the vent or mark where you would like to cut it (mark and measure it twice, cut it once) also the use of blue painters tape can help you stay within the lines you have marked.

RotoZip is the easiest way and safest way to cut into lexan or any product used for windshields. This tool has numerous types of high speed cutting bits for just about every application. The high speed of the cutting bit along with the easy to hold tool itself is the way to go if you have access to one. The key to anything like this is patience and proper measurement.

Hope this helps, C1

 

[Kevin Daly]

If you want to cut the windshield down or just add a vent into it. Measure where you want to install the vent or mark where you would like to cut it (mark and measure it twice, cut it once) also the use of blue painters tape can help you stay within the lines you have marked.
RotoZip is the easiest way and safest way to cut into lexan or any product used for windshields. This tool has numerous types of high speed cutting bits for just about every application. The high speed of the cutting bit along with the easy to hold tool itself is the way to go if you have access to one. The key to anything like this is patience and proper measurement.

Hope this helps, C1

I have used a hack saw and a table saw. in both cases I use a belt sander to finish. I would not recomend a roto zip as they then to have a pull to them and may not go where you want to go. they are also so high speed I would be concerned with melting/minor warping the plastic along the cut line.

 

[clutchless1]

If you want to cut the windshield down or just add a vent into it. Measure where you want to install the vent or mark where you would like to cut it (mark and measure it twice, cut it once) also the use of blue painters tape can help you stay within the lines you have marked.
RotoZip is the easiest way and safest way to cut into lexan or any product used for windshields. This tool has numerous types of high speed cutting bits for just about every application. The high speed of the cutting bit along with the easy to hold tool itself is the way to go if you have access to one. The key to anything like this is patience and proper measurement.

Hope this helps, C1

I have used a hack saw and a table saw. in both cases I use a belt sander to finish. I would not recomend a roto zip as they then to have a pull to them and may not go where you want to go. they are also so high speed I would be concerned with melting/minor warping the plastic along the cut line.

Kevin, I can appreciate your concern about using the RotoZip, this tool can be intimidating with the high speed cutting it produces, plus the fact not everyone has one. A while back I saw someone cut into a windshield and install a vent on a Goldwing, the process was quick, efficient and most of all. Done! Since then I myself have used this same proven method several times myself without any problems. I didn't get the "pull" of the RZ (wood yes, plastic, no) or "windshield warping" caused by the RZ you refer to when making any of the cutting I've done, all I got was a nice cut. I'm sure the hacksaw method works well for you and I'm quite sure you got the results you were looking for. As you have learned of the many uses of the hacksaw, I too have learned many uses of the uses of the RZ. Who cares what method or tool is used to get the job done as long as it looks nice in the end.

A very important fact in life is, it doesn't matter how you get there, as long as you get there in style! C1

 

[khrome]

I am really enjoying these responses. Keep them coming. :clapping:

khrome

 

[Claymore]

Having cut down a few of these, I can second the original reply that finer grades of sandpaper on the rough cut results in a very professional finish.

On a rubber sanding block, start with 80, then 100, 120. 150, 200, 250, 400.... :thumbsup:

 

[Checkswrecks]

I've done a number of windshields on bikes and in airplanes. First, I fold a piece of poster cardboard and make a half-template of the shape I want. Open the template and it's mirror imaged for both sides.

Second, I use the blue tape anywhere near where the cutter and it's base will slide. As I cut, I'll stop now and then to add tape behind the cutter to support the uncut portion ahead of me. It is really aggravating & expensive to have a crack or break happen when you're an inch or so from the end of the cut.

Personally, I just use an electric jig-saw with a metal-cutting blade, leaving about an eighth inch to finish with a belt sander. Always sand length-wise to the edge of the plastic, not across the edge. That's all I normally do and they come out great, especially if you finish with some fine-grit sandpaper. How fine is up to you and you can polish the edge if you want to spend the time. A guy showed me that the really slick way to get a glass-clear edge like in a museum display-case is to pass a non-oxygen flame along the edge.

The rotozip or a dremel both work great and I use either for holes or cut-outs at a speed that is less than full-tilt, where the speed does more cutting and less heat generation. One trick to the Rotozip is to c-clamp a template of stiff card-board or aluminum stock to the windshield first and let the tool follow that. Without a template or using both hands and being careful about control, it really is easy to rotozip a nice cut where you didn't intend to have one.

Be warned that with the coefficient of expansion that plastic has, heat will lead to stress and cracks, and you can do this with either the side of the jig-saw blade or the rotozip at ultrahigh speed. If you see melting, you're not cutting so change technique! If the edge has melted, sand away that area so it doesn't crack later.

The best way to practice is to cut a piece of acrylic or lexan (match your windshield material) from Home Depot or Lowes window department.

Bob

 

[LDRydr]

Tap Plastics will cut motorcycle windshields. Just cost me $40 at the Portland, OR store to trim down the stock one on my Harley. They also polish it all out, came back nice and clean. Store locations on their website: https://www.tapplastics.com/

Dennis

 

[ELP_JC]

Does anybody know what material is our windscreen made of? Is it Lexan of Plexiglass, or something else? Thx.

By the way, it's not as prone to scratches as the one on my BMW, but it does scratch very easily. My best so far was the one on my GL1800 wing. It looked better when I sold it than the FJRs after the first clean. And I use Plexus and ultrasoft cloth. Later.

JC