They are :- 13 (Intake Air Pressure), 15 (Throttle Position sensor), 21 (Water Temperature Sensor), and 41 (Lean Angle Sensor). I used the instructions that I had gleaned from other posts to clear these codes - I got through to the "diA6" screen
13, 15 and 21 will not prevent starting. 41 will prevent starting, so that has to be cleared at minimum. However, the two tip-over sensor codes WILL allow a restart on cycling the key switch even though the code is still stored in memory provided the bike is restored to the upright position and wiring repaired. So I suspect you may still have an issue with the switch or wiring.
OK, then pressed SELECT till I got 62 in the upper screen. Then I switched ignition off, then on.
You need to toggle the emergency kill switch on the right handlebar, not the key switch. The codes are stored in the ECU and could just be from powering up the ECU while you were in the process of rebuilding. If they return after clearing, then there is still a problem with those circuits.
I then bought a LAS from a 2003 FJR, but it has a different female plug connector. So I had to design and 3D print an adaptor to go from my male connector to the 2003 female connector. I have now way at the moment to check whether this adaptor is doing the job correctly.
To clarify: An Aussie 2003 or a North American 2003? According to the respective wiring diagrams I have, an Aussie 2001 LAS should have the same connector as a 2003 NA model: Grey, 3 pins. Red/white to ECU pin 8, Yellow/Green to ECU 26 and Black/Blue to ECU 33. Part No. 5JW-82576-00.
However, Yamaha made changes starting in the Aussie 2003/NA 2004 model year. The ECU connector pinout was different (at least on the NA version) and the LAS was changed to Part No. 5PS-82576-01. This was used throughout the Gen II and well into the Gen III models. The wire colours changed slightly: Blue to ECU pin 13, Yellow/Green to ECU pin 26 and Black/Blue to ECU pin 33. From the schematic the connector
looks the same, but that's just an artist's rendering so it could be a different connector. From the order of the wires it appears that the only change was the R/W wire colour became Blue, but there's no internal wiring shown.
Both service manuals indicate the only way to test the switch is by monitoring the value using the on-board diagnostic. Upright, the voltage shown should be 0.4 to 1.4v. It varies as the bike tilts and the ECU trips at between 3.8 to 4.2v. So it sounds like a potentiometer. Probably supplied with 5v from the ECU on one of the wires (R/W would be my guess) with the other two being the return signal. If any wire is broken or shorted the ECU does not get an expected value and sets a code 41. If the wiring is OK but sensor tips sufficiently, one of the sensor wire voltages rises, the other drops and the ECU sets a code 30.
So my problem is that I cannot get the error codes out of the system, and the engine will not start. Can someone please explain how a dummy like me can actually follow precise instructions on how to delete the codes. Are the smaller numbers in the bottom of the screen the ones I need to take notice of? Do I use 61 or 62 to clear the codes.
Please help.
Regards,
Alan
As noted, use 62. The smaller numbers in the trip meter space display values according to the associated sensor. This is were you will see the voltage from the LAS, for example. If you are looking at the throttle position sensor, the value will change as you twist the throttle. Etc.
