How long to install an Audio Vox CC

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

greg97224

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
195
Reaction score
0
Location
Oregon City, OR
I know the Audio Vox has been hashed here over and over, I was trying to get an idea, how long it takes a competent wrench to install one. The guy who installed my PC III and some other farkles has never installed one. I am sure he can do a great job, but I am just trying to get an idea as to how long it should take.

 
I believe that I saw that Smitty could do the deed in as little as ~1.5 hrs.

If you just walk into the garage and open the box with absolutely no pre-planning, have no parts on hand other than the kit, no game plan, no sealed control pad, no painted brackets (if needed for your install) expect around 24 hrs (three 8 hr days.)

If you have the parts on hand, have a game plan, any prep that can be done ahead of time is completed, you would be looking at 6-8 hours. It matters where you plan to mount parts, it can take a while to locate the servo & vacuum accumulator for a Gen II install or a Gen I with ABS. If you are skilled and confident or aren't making it a piece of art the time will be less.

These times are just to provide scale, there are too many variables to give any exact install times.

Have a game plan (can't be said enough). Have the bits 'n pieces on hand. Get documentation, READ the documentation, have documentation at the job site, ready for use. It helps me to lay out all the parts on the floor or on a table so I can see how the system will approximately look when installed. This will also help you envision how things will be routed through the frame. It will also bring up the first level of oversight errors, giving you time to correct/buy/fabricate before you begin. Set the dip switches and remove the jumper from the servo. Before I start the job I like to have most of the tools and parts laid out and ready to go. I have a monster folding table that I setup next to my bike and get everything from the kit organized and available there.

I'm sure I missed a lot, and reserve the right to edit this post :)

Edit #1 -- The whole job hinges around having the throttle tab drilled. I would recommend this as Job One. If you have a problem with this or can't get it done, nothing else matters and any other efforts would be wasted.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Calling Wld72....Calling Wild72.

I think he spent nearly 10 hours installing it, but he also had an issue with it, the brake modulator, alarm and the ABS light. So I think he spent more time chasing Grimlins than actually installing the C.C.

 
Where I spent an inordinate amount of time wasn't in the "labor" of the install but in the

accumulation of all the little parts neccessary for the install. Such as: diodes and y-connectors

for the vacuum lines, Posi-taps for the electrical connections, spade connectors for the jumper

at the coil, mushroom head screw and locknuts for the cable attachment, heat shrink for the wiring harness, impact driver to remove the fuel rail, etc.

Installation probably took me a total of about 12 hours spread out over several days ( I would

work about 1-1/2 hours at a time, until I'd encounter another situation that required a part I didn't

have ). All told, if I had all the parts I needed at arms reach I may have been able to do the install

in about 8 hours for the first time allowing for some trial and error fitting. I could probably do it

again in about half that time.

In hindsight, I spent way too much time trying to figure out a way to install a vacuum reservoir

and in the end didn't use one; I tapped into all four TB ports instead. I also did not use the

Posi-taps electing to solder all electrical connections instead, IMO time well spent.

My advice, take your time, don't rush or improvise, and above all be conscientious of your work.

Good luck!

 
+1 on soldered connections and better yet, heat-shrink tubing covering them, not just tape. MUCH more weatherproof.

Long drill bit makes drilling the tang easier, as you don't have to take stuff apart to get it out of the way.

Location of the servo on newer bikes is the biggest issue. One tap and a reservoir (automotive fuel filter makes a good reservoir) is good enough for vacuum.

Locating the control pad, or deciding to use and mount switches instead is the other variable.

You'll need a voltmeter to double check your brake light wires.

I've installed a lot of these, but only 2 on FJRs, both were non-ABS so the servo was easy, under the seat behind the airbox on the right side. My throttle was already drilled when I bought the bike, and Mike (Patriot) brought a long drill bit when he rode over to get his done. We took all day on his, including the occasional meal break, but he had EVERYTHING and then some ready, parts-wise. We also changed plugs and did a TBS. And we ate. And then went out to eat. Did I mention there was food?

 
How is it risky? I found it quite easy to remove and felt it was less risky to drill with less stuff nearby. Just be sure to use an impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) to loosen the 2 screws holding the fuel rail so you don't damage the screw heads.
I took the airbox off, more work in prep but it made the drilling and cable attachment simple.

 
How is it risky? I found it quite easy to remove and felt it was less risky to drill with less stuff nearby. Just be sure to use an impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) to loosen the 2 screws holding the fuel rail so you don't damage the screw heads.
+1 it wasn't hard at all, and I felt alot better about jamming a sharp spinning object down in there when I could actually see and get a straight shot at the throttle tang. I used a cordless impact drill thingy, and the screws popped right out.

 
Calling Wld72....Calling Wild72.


I think he spent nearly 10 hours installing it, but he also had an issue with it, the brake modulator, alarm and the ABS light. So I think he spent more time chasing Grimlins than actually installing the C.C.
The installation really wasn't that bad, it was all the other crap that seemed to go along with it that caused my frustration. Since I had read about every available thread on this and many other forums, I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as changing a bulb, but it was within my capabilities.

Moounting the servo above the engine behind the coolant crossover pipe was fairly straightforward on my 07AE. I even remembered to put DIP switch #7 to Off as others had suggested. Drilling the tang was also uneventful, however my first frustrations arose when trying to attach the servo cable. I had great difficulty utilizing the supplied clamp, and even some of the alternative methods offered, before I finally reached a point where the throttle mechanism was not binding on anything.

I used the supplied control panel for now, although will ultimately use either Brundog or dbx's method of discrete toggle switches on the left grip. In the meantime, a couple of self tapping screws and some epoxy fitted the panel directly above my handshift button. Connceting the remaining wiring proved easy, and after testing for voltages at the servo, I buttoned her back up and prepared for the first test. Could not get the CC to engage. Further testing found over 8V on the purple brake light wire, which should have been at zero volts. Turns out it was my Back-Off Wig-Wag modulator causing the problem, so I bypassed that and went for a test ride.

Cruise control worked, but had difficulty maintaining set speed. Since I had only tapped the vaccuum off of #3 test port, I stopped in at the hardware store and bought the supplies to build a vaccuum canister, which resolved the problem, and the cruise now works flawlessly. But I want my brake light modulator back!!!.

Tried hooking up a relay, using the coil to fool the CC into beleiving there is 0V on the purple wire, but it seems brake light modulators don't want to play well with the CCS-100. (I have another trick to try this weekend, which will hopefully make them friends!).

The rest of the weekend was spent adding a fuseblock and tidying up the wiring for all the other electrical add-ons that I have accumulated, but I reckon without the problems, I could have had the CC installed in 8 - 10 hours.

 
How is it risky? I found it quite easy to remove and felt it was less risky to drill with less stuff nearby. Just be sure to use an impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) to loosen the 2 screws holding the fuel rail so you don't damage the screw heads.
+1 it wasn't hard at all, and I felt alot better about jamming a sharp spinning object down in there when I could actually see and get a straight shot at the throttle tang. I used a cordless impact drill thingy, and the screws popped right out.
Whatever works for ya, but if you look at my pic it's pretty visible and accessible the way I came at it with the drill bit.I try not to take stuff off to add stuff whenever possible, I've read too many stories about people's farkle adventures that have gone awry because they mucked something up that didn't need to be touched.

JMHO

 
Last edited by a moderator:
How long to install an Audio Vox CC?
Well, just over two years, so far...I'll post up when it's complete!

Do ya think it would cure my right-hand numbness?
If ya'd quit jerkin off an actually install the darn thing I think the combination would most likely cure the numbness.. ;) :lol:

:jester:
geez, saw it comin' a mile away... :rolleyes:
Not a good idea watching that type of activity is it? I know I wouldn't admit to seeing some guy do that..

:****:

:jester:

 
Top