How to hard wire XM/Ipod

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Mark G

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Both my bikes have cigarette lighter receptacles, both of which make LOTS of electrical noise when powering XM or ipod. It occurs to me I might be able to kill the noise by hard wiring the plugs into the system, but the XM, for instance, reduces the 12V DC to 6 at 1000ma. I'd like to find a very simple solution to this. Any suggestions?

I've got a fused power block under the seat.

 
I used the ~$40 belkin cig adapter to wire the Ipod into the car. This may not perfectly suit your needs, as I needed the line out as well to interface into the stereo.

Anyway, I dis-assembled the unit, and removed the power wire tips that fit the cig lighter casing, and hardwired them into a fused clean power source. This way I just connect one cable, and get both power and line-out from the ipod. The belkin unit has a volume adjustment to match to whatever your sending the signal to, but once it's set, you can tuck the unit away and just leave the one lead for interfacing the ipod.

I don't get any noise this way (in the car)

 
Go here:https://tinyurl.com/v39t8

Scroll down to the "hardwire cable"

KM
+1 on the hardwire kit. No ground noise at all. I have not had the same result with the Mix-it. I've had two, one was a replacement...(excellent customer service btw) but the second mixit has the same problems. At certain rpm levels the sound quality gets scratchy and very poor. The problem does not start right away. I'll be cruising at about 70-75 for about two-three minutes before the problem sets in. I cannot get rid of it until the unit is shut-off for a short period of time. I have not checked how long it needs to clear up. I usually just shut down for the day. It does not matter if it is hard-wired or off the battery...sorry for the hi-jack.

 
Most motorcycles have pretty sloppy charging systems, compared to most cars.

Wire the power feeds to the battery or switched-circuit (and power block), and be sure to run a ground to battery. Grounding to the frame, rather than battery-connected grounding block can lead to more noise.

Also, try a commercially-available noise reduction capacitor, or circuit isolator.

 
Both my bikes have cigarette lighter receptacles, both of which make LOTS of electrical noise when powering XM or ipod.
How 'bout trying some dielectric grease on the contacts of the cig lighter plug?
I've looked at the electrical system with an oscilloscope and I can tell you that the system is very 'noisy'. Even going directly to the battery for ground may not do the job on some bikes. The quality of ground at the engine, at the battery connections and the condition of the battery will effect noise. Your battery acts as a giant capacitor which can absorb a lot of noise, some battery issues will reduce the noise absorption. In some cases it may be necessary to use in-line noise filtering. The frame is always a bad choice for audio grounding.
With the o'scope connected to engine ground, looking at switched ignition voltage, each vertical block represents 1 volt:

FJRVoltage.jpg


 
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Thanks for all the great ideas, guys. The XM-site hardwire kit is a bit spendy but is a simple solution for a simpleton like me. However, I do like the idea of disemboweling the plug adapter and hard wiring it. I've got two XM plugs so maybe I'll try that.

Odd that the XM kit puts out 5 volts; my Roady plug reduces to 6.

My power block is grounded to the battery already, so maybe this will work.

Raises another question: in discussions about power blocks, I've often seen advice to keep the block up under the fairing, rather than running it to under the seat, to avoid noise. Is there such a thing as wire shielding or shielded wire that would, well, shield noise so the block could be accessed from under the seat?

Again, thanks.

 
My Sirius worked just fine thru Autocomm Active Plus until I added Powercommander. They are both at battery (Active Plus & PC) ground per instructions and appears to be the culprit....

 
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My Sirius worked just fine thru Autocomm Active Plus until I added Powercommander. They are both at battery (Active Plus & PC) ground per instructions and appears to be the culprit....

I din't mean to hijack the thread, but can you guys direct me to a pair of headphones that will allow me to hear my MP3 player while riding my FJR?

Thanks,

BubZ

 
My Sirius worked just fine thru Autocomm Active Plus until I added Powercommander. They are both at battery (Active Plus & PC) ground per instructions and appears to be the culprit....

I din't mean to hijack the thread, but can you guys direct me to a pair of headphones that will allow me to hear my MP3 player while riding my FJR?

Thanks,

BubZ

Bub, just about any in-ear set of earphones will work, including the ones that came with your mp3 player. Is that what you're asking, or are you asking for some sort of deal like an Autocom system (www.autocomamerica.com)? The problem with just any set of cheapo earphones is they won't offer you any hearing protection.

Here's a site that offers tons of earphones, all relatively high end: https://tinyurl.com/yxt7ay

I've been testing two Westone models this week, the Westone UM1 and UM2. The foam earpieces offer good sound isolation (protection), and REALLY good sound. You can have the UM1 model made into a custom molded plug, which is by far the most comfortable solution. The UM1 sounds fantastic. The UM2 has two drivers, sounds incredible, adding a fuller, richer sound. They cannot be made into custom earpieces, though.

I also have a pair of Etymotic er4P earphones, but cannot recommend them for helmet use. They sound great, but on a recent trip I had to quit using them late the second day due to painful ear canal irritation that didn't go away for several days. This model has a hard piece that extends out beyond the ear, and gets whacked by the helmet. Lots of riders use the company's er6i model.

If what you're looking for is in-helmet SPEAKERS, you'll need a system like an Autocom. You can also check a site called Electrical Connection, they may have a device that will drive their speakers.

HTH.

 
Thanks for the reply Mark. My problem is that even with a full face helmet I have to turn the volume wide open and then don't hear any bass. Once I stop or slow below 35 mph the sound level is deafening. I want a set that offers enough outside noise isolation that I can hear the music full spectrum without having to turn the volume to ear damaging levels.

When I wear my regular ear plugs noise isn't a problem, so I'm thinking there must be something you guys are using that alleviates this problem.

I wear either a Scorpion EX700 or a Shoei RF800. Both or which are really good lids.

Any insight would be appreciated.

BubZ

 
My problem is that even with a full face helmet I have to turn the volume wide open and then don't hear any bass. Once I stop or slow below 35 mph the sound level is deafening.
I solved that problem by soldering in some quality headphone speakers to my Autocom wiring harness.
 
Thanks for the reply Mark. My problem is that even with a full face helmet I have to turn the volume wide open and then don't hear any bass. Once I stop or slow below 35 mph the sound level is deafening. I want a set that offers enough outside noise isolation that I can hear the music full spectrum without having to turn the volume to ear damaging levels.
When I wear my regular ear plugs noise isn't a problem, so I'm thinking there must be something you guys are using that alleviates this problem.

I wear either a Scorpion EX700 or a Shoei RF800. Both or which are really good lids.

Any insight would be appreciated.

BubZ

I wear a pair of these:

https://tinyurl.com/aa2zc

They not only cut ambient noise, I can listen to my XM without having to turn it way up...even at 3 digit speeds I can hear music clearly.

(do note here , that I also raise my CeeBaily +4x+4 windscreen up to cut down wind noise, but even around town with it lowered, I hear fine)

KM

 
I use custom fit earbuds....$185.00 for all day comfort & low volume levels. For short trips the ER6-I earbuds work with awesome sound and almost no outside noise...

 
Thanks for the reply Mark. My problem is that even with a full face helmet I have to turn the volume wide open and then don't hear any bass. Once I stop or slow below 35 mph the sound level is deafening. I want a set that offers enough outside noise isolation that I can hear the music full spectrum without having to turn the volume to ear damaging levels.
When I wear my regular ear plugs noise isn't a problem, so I'm thinking there must be something you guys are using that alleviates this problem.

I wear either a Scorpion EX700 or a Shoei RF800. Both or which are really good lids.

Any insight would be appreciated.

BubZ
All you need is the right tip. I use $30 Skullcandy's with these tips. They have all the bass of the high dollar stuff. Also some helmets are a lot noiseier (?) than others. A Windjammer helps a lot.

Late edit: I've been meaning to try a set of these. I ordered the tips only (cheap ******* that I am) but they don't fit on my Skullcandy's.

 
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Thanks for the reply Mark. My problem is that even with a full face helmet I have to turn the volume wide open and then don't hear any bass. Once I stop or slow below 35 mph the sound level is deafening. I want a set that offers enough outside noise isolation that I can hear the music full spectrum without having to turn the volume to ear damaging levels.
When I wear my regular ear plugs noise isn't a problem, so I'm thinking there must be something you guys are using that alleviates this problem.

I wear either a Scorpion EX700 or a Shoei RF800. Both or which are really good lids.

Any insight would be appreciated.

BubZ
Bub, let's go to square one. Exactly what are you using to listen to music? Not the mp3 player the sound producer.

Are you using just the mp3 player, or do you have an Autocom or similar setup.

 
Thanks for all the replies fellows. I am looking into all of the posted ear phones.

Mark, I'm using some Phillips ear phones that have different rubber tips that you can use. They were a little pricey but still don't isolate the outside noise as well as regual ear plugs. I did notice that some of the plugs the other fellows have posted use a 3 layer ear insert that looks like my ear plugs. The Phillips plugs I have just use a round rubber plug that is actually hard to get into the ear. I also just use an MP3 player, no extra hardware.

So, that's what I presently have. I don't mind spending the money for something that works, but I would hate to pay $150 for something and it not really get the job done.

That's why I appreciate all the help!

Thanks,

BubZ

 
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