How to trailer an FJR

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FatNakedGuy

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Today I purchased the PowerTye Trailer Kit along with a 10pak of E-track fitting 2" O'rings, and will be using this stuff to tie down my bike in a 24" rental truck with e-track rails (we're moving across country).

I have a giant gun safe that I had planned on putting in the nose of the truck but the guys at PowerTye recommend that the bike actually go to the front of the truck so that the front tire is up against the wall to act as a chock. I forgot to bring up the fact that I had the safe and planned on putting it up front. That left me wondering how I should actually pack the truck.

Would I be able to place the 1500lb safe at the front of the truck, tye it in with e-track orings and straps, and then butt the front tire of the bike up against the safe?

Also, it looks as though I might have to remove the plastic in order to get the tye-downs around the base of the triple-tree clamp. Does anyone have instructions on how to remove the plastic? (I am familiar with removing the lower larger sections but have never removed the upper areas near the battery, etc).

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! I attempted to use the search function here but failed miserably.

Thanks!

Rick

 
I see no reason why you couldn't put the safe in then use it as a chock for the bike. Just make sure the safe isn't going to move while driving.

 
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Today I purchased the PowerTye Trailer Kit along with a 10pak of E-track fitting 2" O'rings, and will be using this stuff to tie down my bike in a 24" rental truck with e-track rails (we're moving across country).
I have a giant gun safe that I had planned on putting in the nose of the truck but the guys at PowerTye recommend that the bike actually go to the front of the truck so that the front tire is up against the wall to act as a chock. I forgot to bring up the fact that I had the safe and planned on putting it up front. That left me wondering how I should actually pack the truck.

Would I be able to place the 1500lb safe at the front of the truck, tye it in with e-track orings and straps, and then butt the front tire of the bike up against the safe?

Also, it looks as though I might have to remove the plastic in order to get the tye-downs around the base of the triple-tree clamp. Does anyone have instructions on how to remove the plastic? (I am familiar with removing the lower larger sections but have never removed the upper areas near the battery, etc).

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! I attempted to use the search function here but failed miserably.

Thanks!

Rick
Hey Rick,

do a search for "Canyon Dancers" on the board. The tie down subject has come up a lot and the CD's are recommended by others all the time !! B)

 
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Hey Rick,

I just had the pleasure of towing my scooter 700 miles to Northern California. I used the Canyon Dancer strap which cost me 30 bucks at Cycle Gear. I'm sure you could find it cheaper, but I was in a pinch and needed it right away.

I tie-down dirt bikes in the back of my truck all the time and initially tied my FJR down the same way...nose into the front of the trailer with a tie-down from each bar down to the d-rings. It didn't really work out that well for me. The bike moved around alot more than a dirt bike (obviously it's much heavier) and didn't stay positioned that well.

What I found to be the best combination of tricks was the following:

1. Turn the front wheel to the right and lock the bars (with the key) so the bars can't turn. If you have the bike tied down with the wheel straight and the bars turn, it instantly puts slack in your tie-downs.

2. I opted to lean the bike over on the sidestand. I know that placed some stress on the side stand, but I figured a side stand replacement would be cheaper than having the bike fall over and bounce around for a few hundred miles.

3. I added two d-rings behind the bike and used soft ties from the subframe to attach tie-downs off of the back of the bike giving four points of contact.

4. I left the bike in gear to help keep the back end from hopping around.

I made the 710 mile journey without any problems.

I hope this helps. Good luck,

Mike

 
Does putting the bike in bike in gear add a whole bunch of weight???
No, but it seems to help keep the back end from skipping from side to side. Same with my dirt bike when its in the trailer. If I leave it in neutral the back end hops from side to side. If I leave it in gear it doesn't skip around as much... :huh:

 
However you do it remember to take a roll of duct tape and tape the open end of ALL the hooks you use. If the bike sways during driving (it will) it can loosen a tie down enough to cause it to have slack and unhook itself. When it unhooks it is no longer there and when the bike sways back the other way it falls down. Always tape the hooks when trailering or hauling like that.

If the truck has a wooden floor then just tack down a couple of pieces of 2X4 on either side of the front and the rear tire. This will keep the bike from moving around on the tires due to side loads or bouncing.

 
The powertye kit hooks come with clips instead of just S hooks. They dont come off when clipped on. Well worth the money. As for the canyon dancers, they can do damage to cast bars and to the stuff on the bars if not careful. Most use them just to steady the front end not used to tie the bike down.

 
I use a "Bike Pro" chock that locks the front wheel in after you roll up onto it. Use 2 std. straps to steady the handlebars and use the strap supplied to hold down the front wheel and you are good to go. Using the strap on the front wheel compresses the tire, not the forks, reducing stress on the bars/tripleclamp. I found that adding a strap over the back wheel (using 2 d-rings sunk into the floor of the trailer) keep the back from hopping around.

To date I have put several thousand miles on, hauling my bikes like this and had no issues.

 
I use a "Bike Pro" chock that locks the front wheel in after you roll up onto it. Use 2 std. straps to steady the handlebars and use the strap supplied to hold down the front wheel and you are good to go. Using the strap on the front wheel compresses the tire, not the forks, reducing stress on the bars/tripleclamp. I found that adding a strap over the back wheel (using 2 d-rings sunk into the floor of the trailer) keep the back from hopping around. To date I have put several thousand miles on, hauling my bikes like this and had no issues.
That sounds like the best all around way to haul a street bike. Unfortuately for me my haul was last minute, in a rented UHaul trailer with aluminum flooring. My options were a little limited on how much I could modify the trailer.

 
Bounce from the original post it sounds like he's trucking it not trailering it. When I first read the the bike/safe thing I immediately thought there would be too much tongue weight then realized itsin a truck.

When I've trucked or trailered mine I use a soft tie around the bottom triple clamp/fork leg down to d rings. then a canyon dancer pulled snug but not tight for upper bike stability then tied off the back using the passenger pegs for rear end stability.

Never had a problem.

Glenn

 
Re Trailer in a bag. Looked at their web page and also would be interested if anyone on forum is familiar with product. Waiting to hear from from dealer in Phoenix as to cost. Will be spending some time in Boise in the spring looking for a house for my daughter and need to get FJR and Avalon Limited there at same time. Portability looks great in terms of limited garage space.

 
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Funny you should mention it. Got a flat on the road today. Couldn't find anyone equipted to haul a bike. Finally got the wife to come get me. Neighbor hooked up my enclosed trailer and she got there in 35 min. I rode it into the trailer and put the frt. wheel into the chock. Then I used my tie downs off the saddlebag mounts . With the frt. tire in the chock and the back secured we made it home. Now I have to live with replacing a new {1000 mile} tire on the rear.

 
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