I am havin a freekin time with TB sync

[timalan]

I decided today to replace my Sparkplugs because the book said to (9k miles ago). Spark plugs looked great. I still don't understand replacing every 8k.

Anyways I decided to check TB sync while I was under there. It is of course off some. I tweek a little make them even. But at three to 4k The bike gets burrbly???? and after that the 1 and 4 cylinders go 2 marks higher but even, than the 2 and 3 which are also even. Book says Do not touch the adjust screws that link each one together. But, isn't that the only way to get both Idle and Higher RPM to match?

So to start a base line. Where do you set your sync adjust air screws to do the sync betweeen the actual Throttle Bodies at a different throttle positions. Anyone know what I am trying to say.

The bike is smoother now but only up to about 3200 (tool shows them even, but the bike is burbling) then it gets funky and then smoothes back out at 6k and up where my sync tool shows the offset between outsides and insides.

 

[madmike2]

Did you read Jestal's thread linked in the Gen II bin-O-Facts? Bin-O-Facts Link

Throttle Body Syncronization (TBS) :FJRTech's article on how to do a TBS (Throttle Body Sync) Clicky

Jestal's alternative TBS (Throttle Body Sync ) Clicky

Rickster's homemade differential manometer for TBS (Throttle Body Sync) Clicky

There is another thread that discusses adjusting the throttle linkage....I don't have it marked and I can't find it...

 

[Constant Mesh]

It's not really worth all that much to adjust the throttle valves particularly on the '06 and later models. Since the zero throttle closed position is fixed on the throttle valves you could end up with one of the valves forcing all the valves up off their normal closed resting position. The closed, resting position was adjustable on the earlier models.

Adjusting the air bypass screw needle valves at idle is really all that's necessary.

You'll hear claims that syncing the TB's will make the engine so much smoother. You'll get a very marginal change in smoothness unless the adjustment is really out of kilter.

Most of the vibration in the engine is mechanically inherent to the engine and can't be adjusted out.

 

[timalan]

It's not really worth all that much to adjust the throttle valves particularly on the '06 and later models. Since the zero throttle closed position is fixed on the throttle valves you could end up with one of the valves forcing all the valves up off their normal closed resting position. The closed, resting position was adjustable on the earlier models.
Adjusting the air bypass screw needle valves at idle is really all that's necessary.

You'll hear claims that syncing the TB's will make the engine so much smoother. You'll get a very marginal change in smoothness unless the adjustment is really out of kilter.

Most of the vibration in the engine is mechanically inherent to the engine and can't be adjusted out.

Then is there just something wrong with the bike at 3 to 4k that causes it to audibly Burble? like its starving for fuel or just Missing or something.

It isn't there up to 3 and it isn't there after 4k. Unfortunately that is about 60 to 75 MPH. And It is forcing me to drive in the 90's Just for smooth. Oh hell, I'll leave it, and tell the cops I have to ride it there to keep my hands from buzzin. :clapping:

And the outside cylinders are together and the insides are together But the insides are not close to the outsides. OFF Idle. At Idle up to about 3k they are all together. If it isn't going to make any dif. I'll just quit dickin with it.

Thanks for your help

 

[Bustanut joker]

Damn I wanna jump all over this, but I boned big time yesterday so I'll stand down.

But,

Mesh yer a tool! Inherent vibration vs vibration because of mis matched fuel ratios per cylinder, are two different animals. An differing "butterfly openings willhave an effect.

Jestal rules regarding this.

:jester:

 

[madmike2]

Then is there just something wrong with the bike at 3 to 4k that causes it to audibly Burble? like its starving for fuel or just Missing or something.
If it isn't going to make any dif. I'll just quit dickin with it.

Some of what you are describing in normal...the computer is "searching" for different readings from the sensors. That's why some use the Power Commander III in place of the stock ECU.

 

[Ramblin Man]

You "MAY", May mind you, have a problem with your throttle position sensor. If it's burbling at 3k-4k, then the TPS may be jumping around. Is it rpm speciffic or throttle position speciffic?

 

[Zorlac]

Since the plugs were first on the agenda, are they cinched down all the way?

 

[DailyCommuter]

Have you checked to make sure that you didn't dammage any of the four little rubber caps that you hook the guage to? Maybe you have an air leak down there, I know when I do the TBS I have to use needle nose or something to get them off. I tore one pulling it off and just replaced them all just in case. Very cheap.

 

[timalan]

It runs the same before and after plugs.

I check pretty closely the rubber caps for damage from pulling them off.

I would say RPM specific on the centerstand from 3 to 4 k

On the Highway from 3 to 4 K different throttle positions? right? same burble.

Bustanut joker: I am going to do the other sync way. When I bought the bike and I did a throttle body sync at 800 miles. It was WAY the hell off. I have already messed with the butterfly sync way back then, but didn't know about the load issue. I believe it will help.

The bike has had the little miss thing the whole time. It just seems worse now. And I am considering a PCIII to get rid of it. IF it will get rid of it.

 

[bergs]

You'll hear claims that syncing the TB's will make the engine so much smoother. You'll get a very marginal change in smoothness unless the adjustment is really out of kilter.

You regain a small amount of bottom end as well....not as in "increases bottom end", rather it restores what was lost as the TB's slowly fall out of balance.

More about this sync:

Every single sync I've ever done was like this--> Set engine speed to 2K to 3K rpms, sync intakes 1&2 then 3&4 then sync both to each other and done.

The book for this bike states a different procedure? Outsides then in or something?

Also, timalan , you may have an intake leak somewhere. Someone else suggested possible damage to the intake boot nipples (can I say "nipples"?).

It's kinda messy but what you can do is button the intake up (air box, etc) and *lightly* spray some WD-40 around each intake, one at a time with the engine ideling. Listen for a rise in RPM's each time you do this and you'll at least be able to locate the cylinder the leak, if any, is located. Clean up is easy, soap and water cleans the 40 off.

Just my .02

 

[Bustanut joker]

nipples (can I say "nipples"?).

Sure ya can, just keep 'em outa yer mouth.

:jester:

 

[timalan]

You'll hear claims that syncing the TB's will make the engine so much smoother. You'll get a very marginal change in smoothness unless the adjustment is really out of kilter.

More about this sync:

Every single sync I've ever done was like this--> Set engine speed to 2K to 3K rpms, sync intakes 1&2 then 3&4 then sync both to each other and done.

The book for this bike states a different procedure? Outsides then in or something?

Just my .02

Nope book says using 3 as reference adjust all others to three using air adjust screws.... then it says

"CAUTION:

Do Not use the throttle valve adjusting screws to adjust the throttle body synchronization"

I just KNOW That they are all at 26cm hg @ idle. Above 4k rpm they go 34cm on cyls 1 and 4. And just a hair above 30 on 2 and 3 cylinders. and they hold there as I slowly rev up. Between 3 and 4k rpm it bounces all over the freekin place. I am going to try resync as done with injectors unpluged. Then I may opt for a pcIII. As I read a little more. And I think the burble is just a mapping problem with the stock ECU????

I also did Barbarian mod +4 on all 4 and it smoothed out the bottom end throttle response. maybe +7 would help this problem @ 3 to 4K?

Plugs looked great at 17000 miles so I don't think +4 makes it run tooo rich or anything.

Again thanks for the help.

If I buy a PCIII do I have to do dyno stuff. The local shop that sells it, only sells it with custom maps for your bike set up on their dyno. I think they said 900 bucks. That I won't do.

 

[madmike2]

From Google: PC III maps site:fjrforum.com

 

[bergs]

About the PCIII:

If you go for it, you should do a custom map to compliment your existing mods, IMO....unless you're stock or if there are shared maps here or somewhere.... If stock, you should be able to download a generic map from PC's website.

900 installed and with tuning is ridiculous. That should be able to be done under 5.......then again, I don't own a tuning shop.

Small hi-jack:

If I need to melt sugar, just add heat? I'm trying to make flan and I have to melt sugar as part of the process...

melt sugar = only heat?