I need help badly.

[Brodie]

Marty

From the sound of it, your bike has yet another failed ignition switch. To have it work when you hold the switch pigtail a certain way, but fail if you let go of it, it sounds like a wire that pulled away from the solder joint. *What makes your case special is you have a recall ignition switch. If it is a verified failure, you need to get another one from Yamaha. Don't pay them a dime to fix it, it is a safety recall. The switch should have lasted the service life of your bike.

As much as I hate to say it, take it back to Yamaha so their mechanic does the work. Yamaha needs to know, from their own service personnel, that the switch failed on a stock bike. When they send you on your way with switch #5, plan to put a relay in the ignition switch circuit. There is still upwards of 50 amps running through that ignition switch, and evidently it's still not up to the task.

I have several Ignition Relay Harnesses ready to ship, or you can build your own. I posted everything you need to have to build one here. The key to having an ignition switch that will last is to keep the heavy amperage out of it. That is what a relay will do for it. I specified a 70 amp automotive style relay, more than enough capacity to handle the job.

I know it's tough to trust your bike when you have had it fail on you these many times, but it's only been the switch. Once it's fixed you can go on your merry way toward +200,000 miles.

*Remember, it's not as bad as having an incurable disease named after you...
:dribble:

Good luck, and keep us informed of your progress.

Brodie

 

[Brodie]

Since he's got an 07, could it possibly be the infamous melting grounding blocks?

Marty,

One more thing, while the mechanic has your tank off replacing the ignition switch, have them look at the grounding block hanging on off the wire harness above engine to the left and in front of the coolant pipe. Have them remove the black cap, pull the forked member out and grease it up with dielectric grease. It's another known hot spot, this will keep it in good repair.

Brodie

 

[Yamma Jamma]

Marty
From the sound of it, your bike has yet another failed ignition switch. To have it work when you hold the switch pigtail a certain way, but fail if you let go of it, it sounds like a wire that pulled away from the solder joint. *What makes your case special is you have a recall ignition switch. If it is a verified failure, you need to get another one from Yamaha. Don't pay them a dime to fix it, it is a safety recall. The switch should have lasted the service life of your bike.

As much as I hate to say it, take it back to Yamaha so their mechanic does the work. Yamaha needs to know, from their own service personnel, that the switch failed on a stock bike. When they send you on your way with switch #5, plan to put a relay in the ignition switch circuit. There is still upwards of 50 amps running through that ignition switch, and evidently it's still not up to the task.

I have several Ignition Relay Harnesses ready to ship, or you can build your own. I posted everything you need to have to build one here. The key to having an ignition switch that will last is to keep the heavy amperage out of it. That is what a relay will do for it. I specified a 70 amp automotive style relay, more than enough capacity to handle the job.

I know it's tough to trust your bike when you have had it fail on you these many times, but it's only been the switch. Once it's fixed you can go on your merry way toward +200,000 miles.

*Remember, it's not as bad as having an incurable disease named after you...
:dribble:

Good luck, and keep us informed of your progress.

Brodie

Thanks Brodie.

I've had it go dead twice in motion. Fortunately on side streets. Had it been the centerlane of a heavily travelled freeway, it could have been the same result as an incurabale disease.

 

[Yamma Jamma]

Ok folks...

I have written Yamaha and described the problem.

I have spoken with my sales mgr at the local dealership.

I have spoken with a rep in Cypress.

Yamaha is sending someone this afternoon to get the bike and take it to the dealership.

They are going to try to ascertain the problem once more.

Will keep yall posted.

Marty

 

[sylvester]

I had a code 12 error bike would not start. My local mechanic had to put in a new Solenoid.

 

[RadioHowie]

I had a code 12 error bike would not start. My local mechanic had to put in a new Solenoid.

Code 12 is Crankshaft position sensor. Did you mean "put in a new sensor" ? If not, what solenoid did they replace?

 

[Yamma Jamma]

Ok Fellas, I have come to an agreement with Yamaha. I picked up the bike today with it's fifth (5th) ignition installed by the dealer. This is the second recall ignition. The FJR has 25,658 miles as it sits in my garage.

I sent my dealer and customer support the following email:

Tim and Christian

I believe that this will be my fifth ignition on this FJR in a little over twenty five thousand miles. Personally my theory is that the bike has an systemic imbalance in the electrical system that is burning up the wiring at the ignition. The distance between the last two igntion failures was approximately 6000 miles. I will try to work with Yamaha if the bike can be inspected every two thousand miles with me present. The inspection intervals will be 2k-4k-6k-8k-10k. In agreeing to give Yamaha this opportunity to make this bike good, I am not waiving any of my rights or claims under the Texas Lemon Laws, simply trying to be reasonable. I am concerned about the risk of personal injury associated with a bike that has shut down twice while in motion. I am relying on Yamaha to be certain that they are not putting me back on a motorcycle that has a known defect or concern and/or is a calculated corporate risk that jeopardes my life and safety.

If that is agreeable and understood, please make your paperwork reflect it.

Yamaha has agreed to this. The dealers stated reason why the 4th ignition failed is:

FOUND LOOSE WIRING ON HARNESS SIDE CONNECTOR CAUSING IGNITION TO SHORT. DAMAGE TO IGNITIONS IS MOST LIKE DUE TO THE NUMBER OF IGNITIONS THAT WERE REPLACED.

Any insightful information that anyone has is appreciated. Thanks.

Jamma

 

[chrisflock]

Interesting, they say loose wiring on the HARNESS side of the connector...

So when they replaced the ignition previously, they got a little rough with the connector and that resulted in loose pins?

Either way lets hope this takes care of it. You still might want to build a Brodie relay...

If I ever get around to getting either heated gear OR a trailer, I'll probably build up a Brodie relay while I'm installing a fuse block...

 

[Brodie]

Ok Fellas, I have come to an agreement with Yamaha. I picked up the bike today with it's fifth (5th) ignition installed by the dealer. This is the second recall ignition. The FJR has 25,658 miles as it sits in my garage.
<snip>

The dealers stated reason why the 4th ignition failed is:

FOUND LOOSE WIRING ON HARNESS SIDE CONNECTOR CAUSING IGNITION TO SHORT. DAMAGE TO IGNITIONS IS MOST LIKE DUE TO THE NUMBER OF IGNITIONS THAT WERE REPLACED.

Any insightful information that anyone has is appreciated. Thanks.

Jamma

Marty

This is very interesting, a recall ignition switch failure.

To my knowledge this is the first reported one.
I would have loved to be there when they dissected the thing.

The dealer statement is a bit vague on where the separated wire is located. There are 2 circuits switched by this device, the main power circuit (up to 50 amps), and a kill switch (signal wire). History has the main power circuit overheating and melting plastic and/or getting a solder joint hot enough to let go.

The following pictures show the wire pigtail from the recall ignition switch installed on my bike...

* switch end *

* connector end *

* internal wiper contact assemblies *

Yamaha split up the load between 2 separate sets of contacts within the switch. The red and white wires connect to the 50 amp fuse up stream - the Source. The brown wire feeds the rest of the fuse panel, hence the rest of the bike - the Load. Ignore the blue/ black and blue/yellow wires, they are part of the kill circuit.

• The white connector has both the red and white wires crimped to the same tab.
• The brown wire is on the other tab within the white connector.
• The red and white wires go to 2 separate contacts in the switch contact plate.
• The brown wire is shared by 2 contact points via a solder bridge (blob).
• This arangement uses 2 separate floating wiper assemblies within the switch itself.

This should have been enough to share the electrical load. Perhaps there was enough dirt/corrosion build up on both sets to cause a thermal runaway. According to the dealer's statement 1 or more wires detached from the contact plate.

They also said a short occurred.

I don't see how since you want the red and white wires to connect with the blue wire to enable the bike to run. The only way a short might ocurr would be if the white wire came off and shorted out the blue wires. Unlikely, because once the wire pops off it just hovers over the failed solder location. I don't see any way the wire would be bent over to touch the blue ones. My guess would be the brown wire became detached. It has 2 contacts heating up the same solder joint.



The dealer also made a speculative judgement...

"DAMAGE TO IGNITIONS IS MOST LIKE DUE TO THE NUMBER OF IGNITIONS THAT WERE REPLACED."
This is a modular design, your bike could have had 100 different switches installed in succession. The last switch has just the same chance of failure as the first one. Their judgement doesn't hold water with me.

[SIZE=12pt]My final analysis...[/SIZE]

One failed recall switch does not establish a trend. This is the first reported CONFIRMED failure. Hopefully it will be an isolated case.

The root cause for all the ignition switch failures (IMHO) is too much amperage being channeled through an outdated design exposed to the elements.

[SIZE=12pt]My recommendation...[/SIZE]

Put a relay in the ignition circuit. I think I know of a forum member who sells Ignition Relay Harnesses. If you want to build your own - Go Here for all the information you need.

Marty, I wish you well with your bike. These things are supposed to be enjoyable - not a source of headaches.

Brodie

 

[Brodie]

<snip>If I ever get around to getting either heated gear OR a trailer, I'll probably build up a Brodie relay while I'm installing a fuse block...

Chris

There have been bikes, bone stock, with ignition switch failures prior to the recall. You may want to take that into consideration.

Brodie

 

[bang-n-gearz]

Yamma Jamma-

I admire your patience.

Buck

Dls.TX

 

[Checkswrecks]

Yamma Jamma -

Clearly, with replacing 4 ignition switches, there's something unique to your bike or how you are living with it. The mention of the bike side of the connector having a problem is extremely promising from several aspects and if they fixed that, hopefully your problems are over. If there was a loose crimp on some wires or some corrosion starting in some connectors (some of the bikes have such a problem, which can be found by searching on the word corrosion), it can increase the current passing through, increasing heat, increasing failure rate. Some of the Gen I bikes got corroded connectors that led to stumbling of the ignition. Using dielectric grease in those connectors really helped.

The corrosion can come from multiple sources. Examples include living by saltwater, riding with snow/sleet runoff in areas that treat roads with salt, washing with some cleaners, and washing with a power sprayer. The salt water ones are kind of self-explanatory and the power washer can obviously drive contaminates into the connectors. (plus destroy radiators, bearing seals, and do other bad things) A lot of people don't realize how nasty some cleaners can be. For example, the early versions of Simple Green destroyed a lot of very expensive electrical connectors that really hurt readiness rates in Army helicopters. The company came out with an aviation version after that debacle.

Hopefully, finding the harness problem solved your issue and Brodie's harness can't hurt. But you may consider whether any of the rest of this might apply in your case.

Chex

 

[Yamma Jamma]

Gentlemen

Your help on this forum is awesome. Thank you.

I'm gonna try to digest this info and then take it to Yamaha.

You all are great.

Marty

Checkswrecks

My house is about 40 miles from salt water as the crow flies. I put about 6000 miles on the recall switch before I had this failure. 5400 of those were an immediate trip from Houston to Montana in early July. Salt air corrosion is not typically a problem in Houston with regard to finishes or anything else. In that 6000 miles I don't think that I took the bike to the water.

Thanks for bringing up the consideration.