I think I know the answer, but I don't like it, so I want a 2nd-3rd-4th opinion

[RossKean]

Or remove the seat lock KEY assembly (part #13, two screws-parts #14):https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2004/FJR1300+-+FJR1300SC/SEAT/parts.html

That would do it!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think their theft resistant screws (with the pin in the middle recessed).

 

[relhok]

The seat lock removes from the back which requires removing the side panel which requires seat removal.

Get on YouTube and start watching lock-picking videos...

 

[NTXFJR]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="blassoff" data-cid="1347151" data-time="1479443579"><p>

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="NTXFJR" data-cid="1347146" data-time="1479440652"><p>You might try taking one of the side bag locks in to a lock smith. They come apart very easily and any locksmith worth his salt should be able to cut a fresh one to match the tumbler stack up.</p></blockquote>

<br />

I couldn't figure out how to pop the lock without breaking the handle. It's locked, so even drilling out the rivets on the cover doesn't help. What's the secret?</p></blockquote>

Pull the ignition switch and let them cut a new key off of it

 

[Old Guy]

It seems to me that the cylinder for the ignition has more tumblers than the ones in the tank, side cases or seat release. Solving these may not enable the starting of the bike. Somebody may (will almost certainly) correct me if I am wrong but until you can verify, don't assume that taking one of the other cylinders to a locksmith will get you going.

My key goes into the ignition almost to the plastic handle. But there's at least a quarter inch more metal showing when it's in the seat, gas cap, or pannier locks. I think you're right that using on of these cylinders to make a key wouldn't get you into the ignition.

Of course, mine's a '13.

 

[blassoff]

Yes..The bag locks/seat lock/fuel cap all have fewer pins than the ignition. So the only real option is to pull the ignition lock and have a smithy make a key.

Or drill everything and replace all the locks with new/different parts.

 

[TomInPA]

I was hoping I wouldn't have to confess to this. When I helped my brother pick up his bike in Cullman AL this summer, I somehow managed to lock my key under the seat. It was a total brain fart moment, and was getting something under the seat and absent-mindedly set the key down in there. So, clearly I was screwed.

Well it turns out, you can remove the side panels on the right and reach the cable between the lock and seat, and by pulling and manipulating that cable on a Gen I, the seat will unlock, especially if a second person put upward pressure on the driver seat. Let us never speak of this again.

 

[Old Guy]

I was hoping I wouldn't have to confess to this. When I helped my brother pick up his bike in Cullman AL this summer, I somehow managed to lock my key under the seat. It was a total brain fart moment, and was getting something under the seat and absent-mindedly set the key down in there. So, clearly I was screwed.
Well it turns out, you can remove the side panels on the right and reach the cable between the lock and seat, and by pulling and manipulating that cable on a Gen I, the seat will unlock, especially if a second person put upward pressure on the driver seat. Let us never speak of this again.

This is a perfect example of "All's well that ends well."

I've sure never done anything like that -- except the time I put my Givi key in my jacket pocket then put the jacket in the Givi and locked it.

 

[Steel_Gin]

Bust the locks off the cases and stick on a pair of hot pink Master Lock combinations......all of us nice guys would love to see how that looks at the next event you're at.

I like the screw driver method for the ignition myself, just don't leave it under the seat and put it back on......then you'd really be screwed. Blahahahahaha!! Thank you!! I'm hear around lunch time eastern most days......Try the veal!!

 

[blassoff]

I'm slowly becoming a kat burglar (teaching myself to pick locks). The saddle bags are picked and are off the bike (I'l deal with them later). I spent about 10 minutes working on the seat lock but it's not budging yet. I'll beat on it some more later in the week or over the weekend. This weekend the fairings come off and I'll start fixing the cracks, breaks, and any gnarly stuff I come across. I've got two different types of plastic repair, see which works better. Plastex or Easy Fairing Repair. Interestingly they're both made in Canada. WTF, I guess American ingenuity ain't what it used to be?

Pictures as I start working will be forthcoming, if I remember.

 

[relhok]

Gratz on your progress.

When I was re-keying my tumblers, the fuel cap had a 6th one but it served only to hold the assembly together. It didn't have screws or anything like the saddlebags. The ignition may be the same way and only really use five. I'm guessing here since the ignition is the only one I haven't had apart.

 

[eflyguy]

On the FZ1, the ignition has one more tumbler than the seat or fuel cap locks. I can't imagine the FJR being different. If you can get one off, however, the locksmith can make multiple keys with all of the last position possibilities - there's only a few.

 

[someguy]

or pay the smith $150 for an onsite visit, damage free key made in under an hour allowing you to go enjoy this bike instead of screwing around picking locks...

a bargain.

keep us posted

 

[blassoff]

or pay the smith $150 for an onsite visit, damage free key made in under an hour allowing you to go enjoy this bike instead of screwing around picking locks...

a bargain.

keep us posted

Where's the fun in that? This bike hasn't run in almost a year (and it's not like it was put away for the winter). I have a lot of work to do, getting the locks sorted is one task of many. Remove fairings, clean and repair fairings, replace missing and broken parts, change tires, remove fuel tank, drain bad gas, clean fuel tank, check fuel pump, clean throttle bodies, then I'll want to start the engine (but I gotta buy a new battery first-old one is toast).

So yea, I'll play a little more before I admit defeat and call the Smithy

 

[blassoff]

It's alive, Frankenbike is alive. I picked the seat lock and the gas cap. Scary, I'm getting good that this stuff. So the fairings are off and being prepped for repairs. The gas tank was drained and refilled with fresh gas and copious amounts of Seafoam. I installed an extra battery and plugged in a replacement ignition switch (for which I have a key). Flipped the ignition switch and hit the starter button.She coughed and sputtered. After about 20 seconds of cranking the bike came to life. She's noisy and runs like crap at idle but strong when the throttle is blipped. At this point, I think I change the plugs, get the bike hot enough to change the oil, and sync the throttle bodies. I'm not sure where the noise is coming from but it sounds like the cam chain in rattling.

Yea, gotta check the tensioner. I thought Howie said he replaced the CCT, but I gotta investigate. Also think I'm ready to pull the triple tree and take it to a smithy to re-key the ignition switch. Thereafter it gets a whole lot simplier and easier. Just scouring to find some clean used parts. Hopefully I get a little lucky

 

[RossKean]

Great stuff. Good to hear the old girl is on the mend. I read all of Howie's trials and tribulations about his original grenaded engine and he made a point that he replaced the Yamaha CCT with an APE manual CCT on the replacement motor. IF the noise is, in fact, the cam chain, the CCT can be adjusted. Alternatively, you could replace it with the current ones from Yamaha. I have not heard of any CCT failures since they came out with the "Blue Dot" version.

 

[TomInPA]

Howie put a manual chain tensioner on that bike. He posted about it many times. Just never trusted the automatic tensioner after the engine grenaded. it is actually his current avatar. Details here https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=124349