I think my new 2009 FJR1300AE has the dreaded dry clutch syndrome

[mferriter]

Thank you for all the good advice.

As far as a clutch soak I read the pictorial directions and a thought occurred to me. Why not just remove the pressure plate, spread the clutch disks apart, and pour oil over them. Then reassemble the pressure plate and allow the oil to permeate the clutch material under pressure overnight. Less disassembly, same, if not better effect.

Any drawbacks you can see to this?

I keep thinking the same thing. I don't understand why "soaking" the clutch plates has much more of an effect than just coating them with oil in place. I can't imagine that the steel clutch plates actually "absorb" any oil.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Thank you for all the good advice.

As far as a clutch soak I read the pictorial directions and a thought occurred to me. Why not just remove the pressure plate, spread the clutch disks apart, and pour oil over them. Then reassemble the pressure plate and allow the oil to permeate the clutch material under pressure overnight. Less disassembly, same, if not better effect.

Any drawbacks you can see to this?

I keep thinking the same thing. I don't understand why "soaking" the clutch plates has much more of an effect than just coating them with oil in place. I can't imagine that the steel clutch plates actually "absorb" any oil.

During the clutch soak, the steel plates don't get soaked. Only the fiber friction plates. I wondered the same thing about just pouring oil over the plates in place, but think that would turn into a PITA. First, you'll have to come up with a way to get oil to the back plates, which are way back there. Second, you're gonna have to stand the bike up, hope the oil runs down into the crank case, and then change the oil to relieve the now overfilled case. Either way, you're gonna have work to do.

Honestly, I was a little apprehensive about taking the clutch apart before I did mine, but it was a VERY simple job. McAtrophy's pic by pic guide was very helpful, and I really do think it made some difference in the way my clutch and shifts feel. If you can change a tire, you can soak those clutch plates with ease. There is nothing complicated about the procedure at all. The most 'complicated' part was keeping track of what order things came out and went in. That was solved by just being precise about where stuff was put.

 

[PanAmerican]

I took the bike back to the dealer during lunch. I explained the issue and communicated my expectations of having a rideable bike.

I pick it up at 5:00

I will report what they did and how it affected the problem.

 

[HawkWing]

My New 09 AE had the same problem. When I took it in for the 600 mile break in service, I talked to the tech. When I picked it up the problem was gone. He explained to me that he increased the rpm's at which the clutch ingages by 100 rpm's and set the idle up about 100 rpm's, now it does not do this any more. Rides like a dream now.

+1 What he said.

 

[McRuss]

I took the bike back to the dealer during lunch. I explained the issue and communicated my expectations of having a rideable bike.

I pick it up at 5:00

I will report what they did and how it affected the problem.

So what did they do and what was the affect? My '09 (leftover, bought new) has never 'bucked'. I give it one bar on the heat scale and ride off as smooth as can be. But still curious.........

 

[allrider]

I've had my AE for several years now and the whole clutch soak thing is really a waste of precious riding time IMHO because it's not a cure. Don't be discouraged by it. The more you ride it,the better it will feel, and you'll have more practice with it.

Here's what I have found: If i ride her regularly, like every day or two I have no problem. If she sits for a week it will be a little grabby at first, but smooths out once I ride it around a while. Leave it a month or more and I know it will be dry and take some time.

It's also helpful to understand that the only time the fiber plates are really getting oil sloshed around on the mating surfaces is when the clutch is disengage, while in gear, while idling, and only very briefly when you change gears. So when you are letting it warm up you can help the process by having it in gear. (you might want to be sitting on it to be safe. I just read where bikes are falling over off the kickstand while idling)

It's a shame they didn't put a parking brake on these like Honda did. Leaving it in gear idling while off the bike would be a lot safer.

I think my clutch lubes up quickly because I have a series of stops and starts between leaving my house and getting around in my area. Each time I come to a stop in gear, and start out again it lubes it up some more.

Conversely, if you get on your bike and can ride it away without much more than shifting from gear to gear,, or get on the highway and ride 1000mi, you might not be making much headway getting those plates lubed.

I can only imagine a new bike would have the worst characteristics because it sat for a long time.

I wonder if the clutch on an AE has stronger springs that squeeze it harder, creating the issue? Anyone know?

BTW, AE riders need to get good using the rear brake to control their bikes as well. Lots of AE's have been dropped because of their herky jerky nature, and things like the clutch disengaging while in the middle of a U-turn doesn't help. I got mine for a song because the PO dropped it and gave up.

Best of luck with the new bike. Hope you love yours as much as I love mine sooner than later.

My prescription is more cowbell more riding.

 

[PanAmerican]

For what it's worth the problem just magically went away. One morning I was riding to work and it was gone. 800 miles later it is still gone.

 

[jaster]

My AE started jerking also. It's an 06' and it started jerking when cold around 44,000 miles. Now with 47,000 miles it does it all the time cold or hot. Forced to ride the rear brake just to get it to launch. I'm in the process of bleeding the clutch now. If I could just figure out how. My MightyVac won't pull any fluid out the port. I was able to get a little out after starting the bike and putting it into gear. My plan was to completely cycle out the old fluid, but not having any luck. Anyone done this? I'd like to know what I'm doing wrong.

 

[networkguy]

For what it's worth both my AE's have done this. I also do the two bar warm-up and on the 06 I had the system bled as that was what Yamaha told the dealer to do. It made no difference. Mine only do it the first time or two when starting from a stop and only the first time the bike is ridden for the day, never again untill it sits overnight. It doesn't occur between shifts, only when leaving from a dead stop and again, only the first time or two I bring the bike to a complete stop. If I can ride it for a few miles before needing to stop, it doesn't do it a second time. I just go easy on the throttle when pulling away the first couple of times I stop the first time the bike is run for the day. I've had no clutch wear issues with either bike. I have not done a plate soak and for me I consider it the nature of the beast. YMMV

Same with me. I got mine new with 0 miles, and it was in the shop several times for the first few months trying to fix it. Ive got a thread from a year and half ago or so on it, but the readers digest version is:

Dealership did clutch soak.

Dealership bled the lines.

Dealership replaced the clutch.

Thos 3 things helped somewhat, and now with 9k or so miles it rarely does it, just occasionally but no where near as violently as when it was new. If I were you Id take it to the dealer and have them troubleshoot. You'll need to leave it overnight so they start it up cold and test drive it.

Ive come to the conclusion after my ordeal and reading other's experiences, its the nature of the beast but will subside over time.

 

[Monty]

Try warming up your bike to 3 or 4 bars before starting out on your commute. The problem may not be your clutch. It might be the engine stuttering. Mine does.