I want to contribute to the forum but my 2014 fjr just wont break.

[Danny G]

At 65,000 miles I am thinking of a new FJR. The only real problem I have had with the 14 was a tps sensor at 20 something thousand miles.The cost of the repair was about 100 dollars me doing the repair. It just keeps running better every ride. After settling on a Bill Meyer seat, vstream wind screen, MV risers, yoshimura exhaust and about ten or more sets of tires it just gets better.  The question is , would it be wrong to own two.

 

[SkooterG]

Every FJR owner should own at least two!  The more the merrier I say.

 

[Danny G]

It is Christmas

 

[mcatrophy]

It's fine to change it. I'm on my fourth since 2006. So far, It's not hurt me, so I can assure you that it is perfectly safe. 

And, of course, your accessories will transfer, your clutch will be lighter (as will your headlights). The only issue is you will have to change gear slightly more often. 

Go for it. 

 

[mophead]

At 65,000 miles I am thinking of a new FJR. The only real problem I have had with the 14 was a tps sensor at 20 something thousand miles.The cost of the repair was about 100 dollars me doing the repair. It just keeps running better every ride. After settling on a Bill Meyer seat, vstream wind screen, MV risers, yoshimura exhaust and about ten or more sets of tires it just gets better.  The question is , would it be wrong to own two.

Here you go.  Just a little north of you.

2008 Yamaha FJR1300 6,495 miles - motorcycles/scooters - by owner -... (craigslist.org)

 

[Trailrider57]

At 65,000 miles I am thinking of a new FJR. The only real problem I have had with the 14 was a tps sensor at 20 something thousand miles.The cost of the repair was about 100 dollars me doing the repair. It just keeps running better every ride. After settling on a Bill Meyer seat, vstream wind screen, MV risers, yoshimura exhaust and about ten or more sets of tires it just gets better.  The question is , would it be wrong to own two.

Regarding your 2014 and the tps.  Mine has 18K and just off idle while letting out the clutch it will stutter.  Sometimes worse than other times and more so after its been ridden for a while.  It's bad enough that left turns in traffic don't give me a lot of confidence but if I over-rev it isn't a problem.  I've run Seafoam through it 2-3 times thinking bad gas but get no real change.  Plugs and throttle body sync haven't helped either.  There are no codes that I know of but I'm pretty poor as a mechanic.  What were the symptoms and what did you do to lead to that diagnosis?

 

[Danny G]

Sounds like what happen to mine. At first I thought it was a miss, but as you say it was off idle I would feel it. You are talking stutter with clutch fully engaged right? I went through the on board computer diags and the problem did not show up turning the throttle and scaling through  the numerical graph. I could also feel mine off an on throttle at any speed. It was not consistent though. I posted on this forum about this several years ago. Should still be there. It was easy to replace and the dealer was no help and told me I needed to sync the throttle body's .  Was glad I didn't pay them to troubleshoot the bike. It was night and day after the tps replacement.

 

[Danny G]

I reread your post. What you describe  sound more like a clutch problem. If so find a better oil.

 

[infrared]

Regarding your 2014 and the tps.  Mine has 18K and just off idle while letting out the clutch it will stutter.   There are no codes that I know of but I'm pretty poor as a mechanic. 

Trailrider,

Hate to say, but sometimes you need the tooling, these days.  A digital readout on some things (like a TPS) really won't tell the tale.  The (digital) OBD is not that great on reading the TPS workings.  You can disconnect the leads to the TPS and see the true readouts on a multimeter, but you would not want the common digital or swinging-needle multimeter.  Now you can get a digital multimeter with an analog bar readout, which will show an intermittent (stuttering) reading from a component.  Whatever you may get as your multimeter, you want the analog bar with the digits, pushbutton operation (not a rotary switch), and plug-in test leads (the common banana plugs) to the meter, not hardwired leads that may break.  This gadget is not one I have used, but it is a good representation of the features you will want.

https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-True-RMS-Auto-Ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07VLL8ND1/

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