Ignition key hard to remove and insert

[harper]

I love this this forum. I have had a problem inserting and removing my key in the ignition lately <insert adolescent joke here>. After reading this thread I looked at the key (why would I do that?) and saw that it was bent in two places and twisted as well. I straightened out my key <insert adolescent joke #2 here>, sprayed the key lightly with silicone spray, and it works like new. Go figure.

 

[Brodie]

Don't trust that key, get a new one made up before the straightened out one breaks off in the ignition switch. The metal has been fatigued and will eventually fail at the worse possible moment.

.

Murphy

 

[CrabbyJack]

Like in the pouring rain 90 miles from home with your rain gear in the locked sidebags. DAMHIK. And carry a spare key anyway.

 

[rfeuerriegel]

I agree, my new to me 08 came with one fatigued key. Had a new made right away. Have been using a drop of pneumatic oil in the key locks which works in this damp north west, but I think the silicone spray is a better idea.

 

[Big Sky]

Like Crabby says, always carry a spare anyway. I ride with my wife about 90 percent of the time. I get one key, she gets hers. Yes, a spare emergency backup but it is also highly convenient as she can get into the luggage (which she does four times more often than I do) without my key.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Never use WD40 unless you're going to remove it with something else. If you're going to use any lube, plan on cleaning the lock out with a solvent periodically and reapplying lube. As previously mentioned, any lube in a lock will attract dirt. I do apply a light lube on the key and then wipe it off before use.

 

[bluesurf]

Keep a piece of gorilla or other tape nearby and put it over the key hole when off the bike. This is standard practice for dual-sport bikes in the muck.

 

[DocFJR]

If it might feeze overnight, I suggest you don't leave the ignition in the locked-fork position. Unless you have lot's of time in the morning. Btdt. Motel check out; North Carolina mountains; 25 degrees; Not fun.

 

[FJR Flyer]

I've been getting intermittent Code 19s more and more frequently. Usually a blast of contact cleaner up the housing weep hole cleans the contacts and it goes away.

Not a lot of confidence left in this switch. I changed out the original for the recall at 20K miles. The switch now has 85K miles on it, so it may be due. Knew I shouldn't have put the security bolts back in.

In any case, found a new stock/OEM switch on ebay for $45. Versus $145 from the standard suppliers.

 

[Old Guy]

I found this video the other day and plan to give it a try. I have used pencil graphite in other locks with success -- just never thought of trying it in my bike

 

[gclarkx]

I bought some Silka replacement keys. 'Two Wheel Obsession' has a YouTube video on this subject. The Yamaha keys are soft and bendable. The replacement keys are much stronger.

 

[Bounce]

First thing I do with any vehicle (well, except for the new one with a chip) is to get a set of spares made. The original Yamaha keys sit, unused, awaiting the day I sell of scrap the bike.

 

[RaYzerman19]

The Canadians and the Europeans have the immobilizer so learn to take care of their locks since the chip key replacements are big bucks. You can make spares which will work the saddlebags and gas tank just fine.... Neglect of your ignition lock is not a good thing considering the amount of use it gets....

 

[ckuhns]

I found some tubes of powered graphite thqat i squirted into the switch that helped the problem. Carl