Installing Audiovox Cruise Control

[ionbeam]

The Grey wire controls the backlighting of the switch, and the switch will not illuminate if the Grey wire is left disconnected. You must connect all other wires from the switch, or the cruise control will not operate.

You can connect the Grey wire from the switch to any ignition switched wire.

 

[I'mAllIn]

Thanks to all that contribue to this board, with special mention to Warchild, Radman, Skyway & Garauld for the invaluable info and farkles. The AVCC install was straight forward, except for the minor changes (listed above) to accomodate the '06. I went for a nice 100 mile test ride and the CC works flawlessly. I installed it with only (1) vacuum diode into the #4 cylinder and no additional vacuum tank (fuel filter, PVC tube, etc, etc) and it works great. A little edgy at low speed, but smooth as butta as highway speed,which is when I use CC.

Any questions, let me know! Thanks again Radman.........!

 

[flienlow]

Bad news...Mine no workie!!

Symptoms:

Everything lights up. But when going down the road, I turn it on, and then set it. It seems to take for about 1 second, then the speed starts to decay. If I hit resume, it will hit for a split second and then stop. I have verified power, and I do have suction to the unit. I completely bypassed my check valve and it still does not work.

I can also here the servo unit clicking when the bike is on the stand and I activate the unit, that is either good or bad.

I wired my unit up much the same as Imallin, except I ran the grey cable from the control module back to the Red lead off the servo unit. Both red and grey leads are connected to the blue wire on the bikes rear break unit.

The only thing I can think of is that I have a bad vampire tap on the blue, or yellow cable. but took pliers and squeezed again to no avail.

Any ideas guys?

Note- Removing the spring off the tang was not a great decision. I have a minor throttle sticking issue. I cant tell if it is the throttle meister or not. When the bike is not running, it seems to snap back fine, but when the bike is running, it seems to stick a bit.

Imallin- Thank you very much for the help today!

 

[I'mAllIn]

If everything lights up and no blown fuse, then I'd say a bad vacuum connection, or possibly a kink in the vacuum line. I'll assume you did not use the black & gray (wrapped together) wires from the servo unit. Those are not needed. Perharps for whatever reason, you need more than one vacuum connection.

Good luck....!

 

[ionbeam]

I wired my unit up much the same as Imallin, except I ran the grey cable from the control module back to the Red lead off the servo unit. Both red and grey leads are connected to the blue wire on the bikes rear break unit.

Servo wire goes to FJR Wire

Red ....................brown brake wire

Purple.................yellow brake wire

Blue wire............Grey/Red at coil

Brown................Switched ignition power

Wire #2 (Grey) from the 10 pin servo connector should be left open.

Leave the Control Pad Grey wire connected to ignition switched power.

The AVCC will not work with the bike on the center stand, there is insufficient loading on the rear wheel causing the AVCC to sense an error condition

You can use the Finger Test for vacuum at the Servo if you don't have a vacuum gauge.

 

[flienlow]

"The brake light harness must be different on the '06. I couldn't get anything out of the brown plug on the right side of the bike. So I cut open the harness going to the tail light assembly and tapped in there.

Red wire from the servo goes with the blue wire from the bike harness and purple wire from the servo goes with the yellow wire from the bike harness." -This way worked for Imallin, and is the way I have mine hooked up.

"Brown................Switched ignition power" Are you talking about the grey and brown wire that are bundled together in the black wrapping? Instuctions said those arent used? :huh:

Correction, those were gray and black wires that were bundled together, and not used.

The brown wire goes to the control pad. I would assume that it gets its 12v. source from the red wire, or the grey wire correct? ( dont think that's my problem.)

 

[flienlow]

:evilsmiley02: :evilsmiley03: :evilgrin: :evil2: :evil: :diablo: :crazy: :axesmiley: :angry03: :grrr: :trinibob: :madsmiley: :angry2: :assassin:

I am so frustrated right now, that I have completely run out of adjectives! It still does not work!

What I have done:

Me and a buddy tore the bike apart again this moring. To my delight I found a bad connection on the green wire of the control pad. Verified connection, put the bike all back together....NOTHING!!

Verified ALL connections on every wire back to the Servo unit.Everything has power that needs power when it needs it. Yes, verified blue wire to coil connection, and that it was connected to the grey wire W/ red stripe. Verified no power to brake on purple wire when brake is off, has power when either brake is pushed/pulled. Bought a new CC this morning and replaced the entire unit. added another vaccum line to cylinder 1. (vacuum connections to 1 and 4.) bypassed my custom reservior. Checked the check valve. flow is towards engine. Bypassed the check valve. All of this and still it does not friggin work!!

What is happening.

Ride down the road at 50mph.

Turn on CC. (It turns on)

Press Set and let off throttle. (Speed immedately decays)

Hit resume. (throttle hits for a second and then stops..speed decays)

I am at a loss guys.? It has to be a vacumm issue, no?

I used 3/16" vacuum line. I removed the tiny plugs on top of the throttle bodies, and pluged in to them. I do have a pulsing suction, and bike revs hi when open, and idles back down when I plug with my finger. I sm using

https://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...+One+Way+Vacuum

for a check valve. looking at the pictue of the universal check valve, I have the 2 connections on left, 1 goes to CC, other goes to reservoir canister. The right side connection goes to engine. Valve is mounted about 6" away from Servo

I believe we have a done a top notch install. nothing has been hacked. What could I be missing guys?

 

[FJRJeff]

:evilsmiley02: :evilsmiley03: :evilgrin: :evil2: :evil: :diablo: :crazy: :axesmiley: :angry03: :grrr: :trinibob: :madsmiley: :angry2: :assassin:
I am so frustrated right now, that I have completely run out of adjectives! It still does not work!

What I have done:

Me and a buddy tore the bike apart again this moring. To my delight I found a bad connection on the green wire of the control pad. Verified connection, put the bike all back together....NOTHING!!

Verified ALL connections on every wire back to the Servo unit.Everything has power that needs power when it needs it. Yes, verified blue wire to coil connection, and that it was connected to the grey wire W/ red stripe. Verified no power to brake on purple wire when brake is off, has power when either brake is pushed/pulled. Bought a new CC this morning and replaced the entire unit. added another vaccum line to cylinder 1. (vacuum connections to 1 and 4.) bypassed my custom reservior. Checked the check valve. flow is towards engine. Bypassed the check valve. All of this and still it does not friggin work!!

What is happening.

Ride down the road at 50mph.

Turn on CC. (It turns on)

Press Set and let off throttle. (Speed immedately decays)

Hit resume. (throttle hits for a second and then stops..speed decays)

I am at a loss guys.? It has to be a vacumm issue, no?

I used 3/16" vacuum line. I removed the tiny plugs on top of the throttle bodies, and pluged in to them. I do have a pulsing suction, and bike revs hi when open, and idles back down when I plug with my finger. I sm using

https://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...+One+Way+Vacuum

for a check valve. looking at the pictue of the universal check valve, I have the 2 connections on left, 1 goes to CC, other goes to reservoir canister. The right side connection goes to engine. Valve is mounted about 6" away from Servo

I believe we have a done a top notch install. nothing has been hacked. What could I be missing guys?

Did you step through the troubleshooting in the Audiovox manual, where you look in the back of the servo unit and push buttons/step on pedals to see if the tiny LED in there lights up? This is what helped me pinpoint a bad wire tap on my install - I actually opened the tap back up and saw that it had not cut the insulation on the wire. Once I got that, the thing came up and worked...

Jeff

 

[flienlow]

Did you step through the troubleshooting in the Audiovox manual, where you look in the back of the servo unit and push buttons/step on pedals to see if the tiny LED in there lights up? This is what helped me pinpoint a bad wire tap on my install - I actually opened the tap back up and saw that it had not cut the insulation on the wire. Once I got that, the thing came up and worked...

Jeff

Didnt notice anything on the troubleshoot info that stated to look at led's in back of the unit. but thank for the info, I will go take a look.

I also change out my homemade vacuum canister, and place a Napa fuel filter in line and also changed out the vacuum check valve for a different one. Little change, now when I press Set the bike will lerch, also when I press resume it will learch. but this is just for a second. I will go take a look at the led's.

Thanks jeff.

 

[flienlow]

Opened the back cover of servo. Turned key on and started bike. Turned on CC.

Blinking Led.

Rear brake-solid LED

Font Brake- solid LED

Pressed SET- solid LED

Pressed Resume-solid LED

I also unmounted the CC as it is under the seat and the cable takes a 90 degree angle comming out of the left side of the bike. I laid the unit in more of a straight line to see if the cable was binding. Test ride= same results.

I am now at a complete loss.

 

[Shane]

Did you step through the troubleshooting in the Audiovox manual, where you look in the back of the servo unit and push buttons/step on pedals to see if the tiny LED in there lights up? This is what helped me pinpoint a bad wire tap on my install - I actually opened the tap back up and saw that it had not cut the insulation on the wire. Once I got that, the thing came up and worked...

Jeff

Didnt notice anything on the troubleshoot info that stated to look at led's in back of the unit. but thank for the info, I will go take a look.

I also change out my homemade vacuum canister, and place a Napa fuel filter in line and also changed out the vacuum check valve for a different one. Little change, now when I press Set the bike will lerch, also when I press resume it will learch. but this is just for a second. I will go take a look at the led's.

Thanks jeff.

@flienlow,

You've discovered the part of the install that some get to blissfully breeze through, while others get no love.

Just a few thoughts based on several installs and some troubleshooting, these may or may not be relevant..........

The little black "jumper" inside the servo unit: Toss it.

Dip switches 1,4,7: on. All others = off

If you can feel the unit clicking when you hit the set button, it is engaging.

The red LED in the servo unit should blink when powered on, and should blink faster as RPM increases.

The red LED's blink will momentarily be interrupted as the unit is engaging, (accompanied by a click noise/feeling) then resume blinking.

Do you have any modifications to your brakelight? Backoff etc...? This is a common source for issues.

The grey wire from the control pad can be merged with the orange/red wire that gets connected to switched power.

The black wire from the servo should be grounded to an available bolt under the seat or other convenient known ground location. The other black ground wire should be grounded at the battery or other known ground location.

The 2 wires (black and grey) from the servo unit that are bound together are not used. If you cut them, just make sure to insulate them from each other and from other points of contact.

The blue wire is easier to run to the ECM, and unless the wires have changed for the '06, it is the large orange wire on the left end of the ECM that you want. This connection has proven to be very reliable for the tach signal.

It sounds like your unit is engaging on demand, but disengaging almost immediately. Check your connections at the brake light wire(s). Make sure the wire insulation has been pierced.

Keep at it, you'll get it.

Shane

 

[flienlow]

The red LED in the servo unit should blink when powered on, and should blink faster as RPM increases.
The red LED's blink will momentarily be interrupted as the unit is engaging, (accompanied by a click noise/feeling) then resume blinking.

Do you have any modifications to your brakelight? Backoff etc...? This is a common source for issues.

The blue wire is easier to run to the ECM, and unless the wires have changed for the '06, it is the large orange wire on the left end of the ECM that you want. This connection has proven to be very reliable for the tach signal.

I am good on everything except the above which I will check.

No mods to the brake lights they are stock. I wired the same as Imallin. and they seem to test correctly.

ECM? I am not sure what that is or where its located.

The coil-

Since the coil is a male spade, and the grey/red wire is a female. I decided not to splice the wire. I did this because I started to remove the farring to gain access to it, and that seemed to be a nightmare in waiting. (who designs those friggin things? My god!) Anyway, what I did, was go to the auto parts store and bought a spade adapter that was 2 males to 1 female. I plugged the new adapter on the coil, and then the grey/red wire on to 1 of the male legs, then removed the stock male spade fitting off the blue wire, and installed a female spade connector on it, then to the second male spade fitting on the new adapter (sorry for stating the obvious here, just want to be crystal clear.)

I did test the blue wire for continuity, and it was good. There has been no engine starting issues, so I feel the blue wire is good to go.

Any thoughts?

BTW Guys, thanks a millon for helping me here, I owe all you guys a beer!

 

[Shane]

"The brake light harness must be different on the '06. I couldn't get anything out of the brown plug on the right side of the bike. So I cut open the harness going to the tail light assembly and tapped in there.

Red wire from the servo goes with the blue wire from the bike harness and purple wire from the servo goes with the yellow wire from the bike harness." -This way worked for Imallin, and is the way I have mine hooked up.

"Brown................Switched ignition power" Are you talking about the grey and brown wire that are bundled together in the black wrapping? Instuctions said those arent used? :huh:

Correction, those were gray and black wires that were bundled together, and not used.

The brown wire goes to the control pad. I would assume that it gets its 12v. source from the red wire, or the grey wire correct? ( dont think that's my problem.)

@flienlow,

What do you mean when you say you "couldn't get anything out of the brown plug on the right side of the bike"?

There should be only two wires leaving that plug, right about where your right anklebone hits the frame, brown and yellow, unless they've changed color for '06. Those are what you want to tap into. Remember, the Minnesota Vikings are Purple and Yellow, and the red and brown ones go together too.

The symptoms sound like a faulty/incorrect brakelight connection.

Shane

 

[flienlow]

Shane-

"couldn't get anything out of the brown plug on the right side of the bike"?- This is from Imallin who started this post. When he tested the wires he couldnt get anything out of them. He is the one that used the blue and yellow wire off the brake harnes on the tail section. That brown wire was extremely difficut to get to to splice into, so I opted to do it IMallin's way. The purple wire off the servo goes to yellow, and the red off servo goes to blue. The blue wire does have a constant swithed 12v, and the yellow wire has 12v when either brakes are deployed.

I would agree that your are right on the faulty wiring, but this worked for imallin on his '06, and we have tested several times, and it reacts as it should(volts when needed and when not) there is a brown wire in the tail section, but when tested didnt work (turn signals perhaps)

Not saying your wrong and Im right by any means, just that it was an easier way to go, and worked flawless for Steve.

Justin

 

[I'mAllIn]

Check all your connections again. As someone previously mentioned, make sure that the Black & Gray (together) wires that you cut are insulated from each other. Your coil connection is good or else your bike wouldn't run. Check throttle linkage clamp to make sure you're not pinching the servo throttle cable. Ditch the (3) way vacuum valve and filter and try with a (1) way valve and no additional vacuum reservoir. Mount the vacuum valve as close to the engine as practically possible (I have a 2" piece of hose at the cylinder, then the valve, then hose to the servo). Use small zip ties to seal vacuum hoses at all connections. Make sure your vacuum hose isn't pinched and has smooth bends. Ditto for throttle cable. The brown plug on the right side is somehow on the rear brake circuit, but I could not verify its use. My connections do the same thing and are easy to access......worked for me!

Also verify your ground connections. You should have (2), one from the servo and one from the control pad. Using a test light, clamp one end to the + terminal of your battery and the other end where you hooked for your ground connection. You must have good ground to complete the circuit. Although based on your description, I would guess that your problem is vacuum or linkage related.

Finally..........what speed did you test the CC at? I first did right out of my driveway at about 30mph and it definetely was learching, and I thought it was bad. I continued on, got to highway speed, tried again and it worked flawlessy. Tried again at low speed and it worked fine, although a little rough at lower speeds, presumably since I did not use any additional vacuum reservoir. That's no biggie for me as I only use CC on the big slab. Did you somehow insulate the contacts in the control pad when water-proofing it?

 

[ionbeam]

Opened the back cover of servo. Turned key on and started bike. Turned on CC. Blinking Led.

Blinking LED = not good. LEDs should be steady when on.

+1 on the ground connections. The majority of AVCC problems have been resolved at the ground wire.

Setting speed with a sudden sag, in the past has been caused by 1) ground problem 2) black & grey wires touching 3) failure to see the tach signal (in your case sounds like you have that one covered)

I'mAllIn, I initially installed my AVCC with 4 vacuum check valves and a vacuum canister. Worked great, a little rough at high rpm/low speed stuff. Last year while I was doing a lot of things under the tank I decided to remove all but 1 check valve. Going from 4 to 1 check valves (while retaining the reservoir) I noticed significant degradation in operation. Very slow to set speed, very rough low speed operation, speed sags and sluggish response. Next time the tank goes up, the 3 check valves go back in. Dunno if you would notice much going from 1 to 4 check valves but I sure noticed Bad Things going from 4 to 1.

 

[I'mAllIn]

ionbeam,

I'll also add (3) more check valves and connections next time tank is off. I thought that part of the install would be a PITA, but it's really straight forward. Not sure that it's really needed, but I'll do it anyway.

Other than the low speed lurching (which again is no biggie for me) the CC is slow to "resume" speed after hitting the brakes. While going 80mph, I tapped the brakes and let the bike slow to 50mph, then hit "resume" and had time to read War and Peace before reaching 80mph. Again, that's not really a big deal for me, just twist the throttle to resume speed, hit "set" and off into the sunset.

 

[flienlow]

Ionbeam-

Per shane "The red LED in the servo unit should blink when powered on, and should blink faster as RPM increases."

I will check out all of Shane's suggestions, before moving on. Now then, the black and grey wires from the servo. I did not cut (or use) these wires, as the farkel suggested, I ran them though housing. It was a waste and I prolly should have just cut the damn things off. Hence, they should not be touching.

Ground wires:

Servo ground is on nut where rider seat clicks in. Control pad is grounded to the battery. Is that my problem?

 

[flienlow]

Imallin-

I now think this is electrical. It cant be a linkage prob. We check very throughly. Our CC's are in the same spot, and wired the same way. I know the Control pad works because we verified back to servo.

Not dip switches either.

After reading what everyone has said, it can only be a:

Ground- Can CC control pad ground be connected to battery ground?

Vacuum issue- (I highly doubt it though. I changed out my check valve, ran with and without canister and even tried directly to CC unit. No changes at all. I think if it were a vacuum issue, things would change when you changed the setup.

Cable Routing- Our is the same, I even adjusted the unit to not have a 90degree corner from under seat. No change.

Brake wires? Cant be. Exactly like yours, power when need and when not, and the red has a constant swithed 12v.

Coil wire? Verified continunity to servo, and bike starts and runs flawless?

Everything I change does not effect the unit. It reacts in the same way no matter what I do.

Now the question is:

Why would 1 ground being connected to the battery, and the other ground being connected to the chassis, which is connected to the battery cause any problems?

 

[Shane]

Shane-"couldn't get anything out of the brown plug on the right side of the bike"?- This is from Imallin who started this post. When he tested the wires he couldnt get anything out of them. He is the one that used the blue and yellow wire off the brake harnes on the tail section. That brown wire was extremely difficut to get to to splice into, so I opted to do it IMallin's way. The purple wire off the servo goes to yellow, and the red off servo goes to blue. The blue wire does have a constant swithed 12v, and the yellow wire has 12v when either brakes are deployed.

I would agree that your are right on the faulty wiring, but this worked for imallin on his '06, and we have tested several times, and it reacts as it should(volts when needed and when not) there is a brown wire in the tail section, but when tested didnt work (turn signals perhaps)

Not saying your wrong and Im right by any means, just that it was an easier way to go, and worked flawless for Steve.

Justin

How's it going Justin?

I'm not going to poo-poo the connection between red and blue for one of the brake light connections, but your indication that when tested, the blue wire has a constant switched 12v makes me doubt its viability for this use. The idea is that there should be no power at all happening in that particular circiut except when the brake is applied. This curcuit closing and making 12v is what tells the unit to disengage.

To get at the brown wire, just cut the plastic insulation and tug on the wire a little, there's plenty of length to work with.

Shane