installing cam chain tensioner

[v65]

I am wrapping up the 26k valve check (one was out of spec, #3 left exhaust was loose), and am trying to install the cam chain tensioner. I put it back in the block, and then read the directions to see how far to tighten it. Oops, probably should have read those first.

As it is getting late, can someone elaborate on the manual? It says make sure the tensioner rod releases, and that's it. Apparently mine is not releasing, because I am having to manually adjust the tension by hand. Should I have done something before putting the tensioner back in the block?

 

[madmike2]

Welllll, you might try Google: replace cam chain tensioner site:fjrforum.com

I know that FJRay changed his and did quite a write-up on the procedure but you'd have to wade through the posts on my link to find it. I'm sure the information is there.....

 

[dcarver]

I am ashamed I don't have first hand info on how to do this..

I took it to a local dealer and had them replace the tensioner on my 60k 06 manual shift model.

Very glad I did...

No more nasty noise at idle..

..ask Ionbeam about details, blown motor, zero clearance valves and all...

I personally think that later, as more Gen II bikes accumulate mileage, we will see more top end catastrophic failure due to tensioner failures. Just my opinion, of course..

Time will tell.

 

[v65]

Welllll, you might try Google:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Thanks Mike!, I did try that. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I had read his post:

It is so simple...

I really don't want to pull that thing out again to figure out how simple it is. Simple it may be, but getting it out, not so much.

 

[v65]

After reading the manual with fresh eyes I think I got it. With the tensioner still in the block I turned it all the way clockwise and pulled the screwdriver out; the tensioner released and put tension on the chain.

 

[ionbeam]

Well, yesterday I finally got around to pulling out some of the *&%#@ pieces that did in my engine to look at what really went wrong, including the cam chain tensioner.

Turning the cam chain tensioner CLOCKWISE pulls the plunger in. If the plunger isn't fully pulled in, it will release again when you take the screwdriver out. If the plunger is turned all the way in (clockwise), turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE (British = Anti-Clockwise) to release the plunger. I highly recommend that no matter what, you finish by turning the screw in the cam chain tensioner COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

I just put the tensioner back together again and can confirm with it sitting in my hand right now --> CW pulls the plunger in (away from the chain slipper, releasing pressure), and turning the screw CCW releases the plunger putting tension on the chain slipper and adding pressure to the cam chain.

All CW and CCW directions are from viewing the screwdriver hole, while looking toward the front of the bike.

My cam chain tensioner plunger bit the dust with the plunger extended over half it's length to a bit more than 5/8". Completely retracted the plunger is 3/8" from base to face. Fully extended the plunger is 1.25 inches from base to face of the plunger.

More details to come, but the spring in my cam chain tensioner is very strong for the first third of the plunger travel, there is almost no pressure at all for the last third of the travel.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Well, yesterday I finally got around to pulling out some of the *&%#@ pieces that did in my engine to look at what really went wrong, including the cam chain tensioner. My cam chain tensioner plunger bit the dust with the plunger extended over half it's length to a bit more than 5/8". Completely retracted the plunger is 3/8" from base to face. Fully extended the plunger is 1.25 inches from base to face of the plunger.

More details to come, but the spring in my cam chain tensioner is very strong for the first third of the plunger travel, there is almost no pressure at all for the last third of the travel.

Awaiting those details; as you may surmise? along with many others (I suspect). After many decades of observing the life & times of o.h.c. engines I'm curious how a failed cam chain tensioner can be the culprit.

Here are a few things I've seen: cam chains so loose that they've worn a groove all the way thru to the outside -- bike still running and being ridden; cam chain so noisy it's believed (by a dealer, even) that the engine's shot -- all it needed to be quiet was a burr taken off the tensioner shaft; rollers and guides all worn and tensioner adjustment used-up -- engine still running (but noisy). Speaking of: the noise of an un-tensioned, un-controlled, cam chain is horrible (nuts and bolts rattling in a tin-can) -- too noisy for me to ride.

I've also seen broken roller style cam chains (never a Morse Hy-Vo type) and have seen the cam chain drive sprocket on the crankshaft lose its teeth (no/poor hardening) -- result was similar to yours.

I've also 'doctored' weak tensioners by beefing-up the springs and (early-on) converted troublesome 'automatic' tensioners back to 'manual'.

I have every confidence that your investigatory efforts will be complete and quite 'telling'; and will be interested in your findings.

Too, I commend your reserve thru this ordeal.

 

[v65]

Well due to working on this late at night I had the "opportunity" to take it out again. Now that I see how it works, I see no reason to take the tensioner out to remove the cams. With the motor in the frame removing/putting back the tensioner is a pain in the buttocks, definitely the hardest part of the job for me. It looks to me to be unneccessary, turning cw, ccw can be done with the tensioner in the motor. :angry: