installing garmin 660

[Fred W]

Doesn't move? Really? Because my GPS (alone) moves around on the RAM ball mounts when I hit big enough bumps. Especially when off-roading on the V-strom. It's part of what I like about using RAM ball mounting parts; They do some shock isolation.

But your first hand experience that the big mount hasn't caused any problems on RAM mounts is very good to know. It certainly looks more secure.

How do you prevent a thief from just loosening the RAM arm and making off with the whole mount? Are you using one of those RAM locking knobs? And what prevents a thief from unscrewing the bottom RAM ball that is screwed into the Stem Nut?

 

[carlson_mn]

I wired my relay to turn on using the factory heated grips wire. It is only active after the engine is started but stays on until the key is turned off. That way there is no draw when starting the engine, and they stay on when I hit the kill switch until I shut the key off.

On my gen1 I used the low beam switch for the same effect... but hitting the high beams would cause the GPS to warn me that it would shut off in 30 seconds... wasn't really an issue as you can choose to have it run on battery by tapping screen.

 

[Harald]

Do you ever have any trouble driving around all the time without the GPS and a hot cradle?

Nope, because I always install the sealed cover whenever the GPS is removed. This keeps the delicate pins clean and safe. I live in the Pacific Northwet where we have 366 rainy days each year (okay I might be exagerating by a couple days) so the cover is also important to keep the connector dry.

BTW, replacement covers can be had for $7.47 shipped from xtremenavigation.com in case you do something stupid like me and leave your 'Stich right chest pocket unzipped and it falls out while going down the freeway. :angry: So while awaiting my new cover, I'm using the high tech sandwich baggy cover. :yahoo:

 

[LAF]

Doesn't move? Really? Because my GPS (alone) moves around on the RAM ball mounts when I hit big enough bumps. Especially when off-roading on the V-strom. It's part of what I like about using RAM ball mounting parts; They do some shock isolation.

But your first hand experience that the big mount hasn't caused any problems on RAM mounts is very good to know. It certainly looks more secure.

How do you prevent a thief from just loosening the RAM arm and making off with the whole mount? Are you using one of those RAM locking knobs? And what prevents a thief from unscrewing the bottom RAM ball that is screwed into the Stem Nut?

Well I remove the GPS you silly wabbit.

If the bike is out of site I hit the release and throw it in the trunk with the Twisted Throttle gas cap wired tank bag.

You know what they say about locks and honest people and all that.

In all seriousness is is not a problem on the ram mount and I used red lock tight on the ball in the stem nut. A deep socket still gets it off for maintenance of the steering stem torque procedure.

Not affiliated with them but I really believe they make the best isolation mounts for GPS that I have seen. Ohh and not cheap either, but if you catch them at a bike event you can get some money off.

I guess it goes back to when I totaled my K 1200 LT in July of 10. The 660 was the only thing to survive a 65 MPH high side into the Bad Lands. It had one tiny nick in it but it and the mount survived and is working as if it never happened. Wish I could say the same about me.

 

[Fred W]

Yes, exactly.

About all that we can hope for in any of these locking mounts is to just slow down the theft a little bit (so we can catch 'em!) or to make it inconvenient and/or obvious enough that they're doing wrong that they move on to easier pickings.

If you were of a mind to want to inhibit someone from walking off with the entire mount you could make up a short steel-wire cable and have that attached to it. Then the thief would need to have (and use) a pair of big cutters to get it free, which would make it pretty obvious to anyone around what was going on. It still wouldn't stop it from happening if someone wanted it badly enough though.

I've actually bought one of those locking RAM knobs, but don't use it. It's kind of a PITA to use if you take the mount off and on very often. Other folks replace the big wing-nut with a regular nylock nut so you'd need tools to loosen the arm, but I sometimes I like to reposition, or tighten up, the GPS mount along the way for one reason or another. Having the locked cable means you don't have to worry about the wing-nut.

 

[RaYzerman19]

The unit draws very little power, so there is no fear of draining the battery unless you leave it for a day or two or three. I had issues with multiple booting during rides when I shut the key off, as it sometimes had a scrambled brain. Problem solved with having it always powered and life became much simpler not having to worry about it, restart the music, etc....... now I don't know why anyone would want it switched....... no chocolate for me Fred, thanks.

 

[Marcus]

The unit draws very little power, so there is no fear of draining the battery unless you leave it for a day or two or three. I had issues with multiple booting during rides when I shut the key off, as it sometimes had a scrambled brain. Problem solved with having it always powered and life became much simpler not having to worry about it, restart the music, etc....... now I don't know why anyone would want it switched....... no chocolate for me Fred, thanks.

Well, after reading all the replies, I wired it hot, and left the

audio out line exposed right below the unit for ear-buds. Thanks for all the help.

 

[bramfrank]

I simply plug my UM2s into the jack on the unit itself - no connectors exposed to the elements that way. Mine is wired to switched power (following lights). If you leave your unit on overnight you WILL need a boost.