Installing turnbuckle style lowering links

[Dj Brady]

or will I need to do a little math to get a 1" drop?

meaning.... will adjusting the links 1" give me a 1" drop or will there be a ratio given the cantilever style?

 

[SilveradoSlick]

It's not 1:1 but I don't know what it is. Mine should arrive in a day or two so I'll let you know.

 

[Fred W]

It's about 2:1. Shortening the links by 5/8" reportedly raises the *** end about 1 1/2".

Be sure the links are stout laterally. There are reports of the stock links being sheared off if the pivot bearings get get a little crusty, and the stock 'bones are pretty darned robust.

 

[Dj Brady]

It's about 2:1. Shortening the links by 5/8" reportedly raises the *** end about 1 1/2".

Be sure the links are stout laterally. There are reports of the stock links being sheared off if the pivot bearings get get a little crusty, and the stock 'bones are pretty darned robust.

Cool, thanks for the info. I can't wait to get these on and get everything in place so I can actually touch without having to do the ballerina toestand maneuver.

 

[rogdeb]

I installed the "Soupy's" turnbuckle links last year. Shortening by 1/2" raised the rear end 1", and those suckers are stout !

 

[Dj Brady]

I installed the "Soupy's" turnbuckle links last year. Shortening by 1/2" raised the rear end 1", and those suckers are stout !

Awesome news. I bought mine from soupy's performance ebay store last night.

 

[Jon]

I lowered my bike by first modifying the seat pan (but not the foam). That got me about 3/4" closer to the ground. I then lower the rear suspension with a set of Kouba lowering links. I got the ones that lower the bike 7/8” (part # FJR2). I then lowered the front forks 1/2" (the most you can). I have a 29" inseam and now can easily walk the bike around.

Be aware that if you lower the suspension the side and center stands are not going to work. The side stand will leave the bike almost upright. Getting the bike on the center stand will take super-human effort. Some people carry around a short piece of 2x4. They role the rear tire up on it and then put the bike on the center stand. I chose to shorten the center stand 1" and slightly bend the center stand. As a result, the bike will now safely rest on the side stand and I can easily get it up on the center stand.

I created a set of directions, with photos, for all of these mods and will gladly email them to you if you want. Email if you want them.

Jon

[email protected]

 

[Fred W]

Jon,

Your bike lowering mods .pdf files are still being hosted on my account here:

Stage 1 - Seat

Stage 2 - Suspension

Stage 3 - Side and Center Stands

 

[Dj Brady]

Thanks for the info everyone!

I got the links installed yesterday and in their "shipped" form, the bike already feels a lot better. It's down about 1/2" in the back and the sidestand still works right now. I need to slip the triples to even the steering geometry and I'll get the sidestand reworked.

I do have another question. With the turnbuckle links, how does one adjust them? Do I have to loosen and adjust both sides at the exact same time? I can't imagine being able to adjust one side and then the other w/out putting a strain on the shock linkage in some twisting manner.. maybe it's got enough flex/slack in the system that it won't hurt it to adjust one side a few turns and then catch the other side up?

When I say that, I don't mean only adjusting one side and locking it down... I know most of you all understand that, but I know there's always one on every forum that will misunderstand what I'm saying and read the riot act..

 

[Fred W]

I don't know for certain as I've never had these in my hands. I think to a certain extent you may be delving into fairly uncharted waters.

But, I would imagine that there would be some small amount of slack in the linkage system so that you could make small incremental adjustments side to side. I don't think I'd want to go a full turn at a time, for the reasons you mentioned (twisting the linkage). Once you loosen the lock nuts on one of the turnbuckles, you should be able to get a feel for just how much slack is available before it really starts torquing on the linkage. Once you know that you'd just alternate between the two dogbones making that amount of adjustment until they are evenly adjusted where you want them. It may only be 1/4 turn, or maybe 1/8 turn at a time? But you'd get there eventually and it would beat having to disconnect the ends.

 

[rogdeb]

Thanks for the info everyone!

I got the links installed yesterday and in their "shipped" form, the bike already feels a lot better. It's down about 1/2" in the back and the sidestand still works right now. I need to slip the triples to even the steering geometry and I'll get the sidestand reworked.

I do have another question. With the turnbuckle links, how does one adjust them? Do I have to loosen and adjust both sides at the exact same time? I can't imagine being able to adjust one side and then the other w/out putting a strain on the shock linkage in some twisting manner.. maybe it's got enough flex/slack in the system that it won't hurt it to adjust one side a few turns and then catch the other side up?

When I say that, I don't mean only adjusting one side and locking it down... I know most of you all understand that, but I know there's always one on every forum that will misunderstand what I'm saying and read the riot act..

I loosened the 4 lock-nuts (2 on each side) then wrenched both turnbuckles at the same time, using the flat surfaces of the turnbuckle as my guide. Real easy.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

I would measure the 'dog bones' (center-to-center would be the engineer's choice -- but 'over-all' should suffice?) length to be sure no "off-set" is being induced into the suspension linkage -- and causing binding and (presumably?) restricted movement (and, maybe?, increased/early bearing wear.

The stock 'dog bones' are exactly the same length -- in fact, they're axactly the same...

 

[Dj Brady]

I would measure the 'dog bones' (center-to-center would be the engineer's choice -- but 'over-all' should suffice?) length to be sure no "off-set" is being induced into the suspension linkage -- and causing binding and (presumably?) restricted movement (and, maybe?, increased/early bearing wear.

The stock 'dog bones' are exactly the same length -- in fact, they're axactly the same...

They came "pre-measured" and I verified before installing, thanks for the tip. My question concerns adjustments while on the bike.

RogDeb, thanks for the confirmation on that. I'll probably go that route too.. I think it's a 17mm or 7/8" open end, right? (I remember a 7 being in there).

 

[rogdeb]

I would measure the 'dog bones' (center-to-center would be the engineer's choice -- but 'over-all' should suffice?) length to be sure no "off-set" is being induced into the suspension linkage -- and causing binding and (presumably?) restricted movement (and, maybe?, increased/early bearing wear.

The stock 'dog bones' are exactly the same length -- in fact, they're axactly the same...

They came "pre-measured" and I verified before installing, thanks for the tip. My question concerns adjustments while on the bike.

RogDeb, thanks for the confirmation on that. I'll probably go that route too.. I think it's a 17mm or 7/8" open end, right? (I remember a 7 being in there).

Just checked mine -- 19mm

 

[Dj Brady]

:chuckle: guess I need more sleep.

 

[rogdeb]

Now you've got your sleep how'd the install and adjustment go?

 

[Dj Brady]

Haven't had the time to delve back into it. It's 50 degrees out and I'm just not motivated to go tinker. :angry2: I'm going to talk to a guy about shortening my sidestand tomorrow or tuesday and once I get that 'in the works', I'll slide the triples and make an adjustment on the turnbuckles I'll probably do the "loosen both sides and spin them evenly and simultaneously" route. Speaking of... what lowers the bike? shortening or lengthening the linkage?

 

[rogdeb]

Lower bike = longer linkage, and vice versa.

 

[Dj Brady]

Thanky