fastpappy
Well-known member
Dragging the rear brake helps for really slow mo stuff.Love grip puppies.
I would feather one of the brakes in tricky situations starting off.
Dragging the rear brake helps for really slow mo stuff.Love grip puppies.
I would feather one of the brakes in tricky situations starting off.
Good stuff, just what the bike is trying to teaching me, with computer controlled consistency. Before I started rolling my own grips (bicycle bar tape and heat shrink) I used something like the puppies, and they didn't last a year, they came apart in a rainstorm after being baked in the sun. Are these more durable?As for the AE throttle, the secret is to retrain your right hand to ease on the throttle to find the sweet spot rather than feathering the clutch. Not difficult but takes a little while since you need to create new muscle memory. As for the grip diameter I like the Grip Puppies. They feel much better and help with any vibration also inexpensive so if you decide you don't like them not a big investment and easy to install. Just my $.02.
I used to use foam grips back in the 80s that did that. Had to change them all the time and when I first got the Puppies I thought it was going to be the same deal but I thought hey they're cheap enough and easy enough to install so what the hell but I haven't had that problem with the Puppies. Although I do keep my bike covered when I'm not riding. Even when I was commuting I would throw the cover on once I got to work (Construction sites tend to be filthy) and I don't intentionally ride in the rain unless I'm caught out in it but the Puppies are holding up great and even work ok with my heated grips. I just Googled them and see them for 20 bucks. I think I paid 4 or 5 bucks when I bought them tells you how long they have lasted but of course YMMV.Good stuff, just what the bike is trying to teaching me, with computer controlled consistency. Before I started rolling my own grips (bicycle bar tape and heat shrink) I used something like the puppies, and they didn't last a year, they came apart in a rainstorm after being baked in the sun. Are these more durable?
For down changes, do the opposite of your up-change technique. As you change down, open the throttle a tiny bit, then back it off to where it was. Works at any rpm. Just learn the timing, also how much and how quickly according to engine load and speed. Changing down with power on ("I need a lower gear going up this hill" is very different from a trailing throttle "We're slowing down from 70 to 35"). Think "unload the gearbox during the change". With a little practice these become second nature.When I first got my 2006 AE, I nicknamed it the clunk-o-matic. One day, I played around with different shifting techniques and finally figured out the best way for seamless upshift. Just close the throttle a tiny bit, pull the paddle shift, and open back the throttle quickly. As for downshifting, follow the manual and wait until rpms drop to 1500, to minimize engine braking.
I agree dragging the rear brake helps in slow U turns. Love the auto clutch on my 2007 FJR1300AE. Have 56,600Kl on it now and other than regular maintenance items no issues. I added a round plastic disc on the bottom off the bar electronic gear shift as on long twisty rides my thumb was aching, this fix works good as it places the activator closer to my thumbs reach. I purchased the FJ-AE after selling my ST1300 because my arthritis was limiting my distance riding, it worked, love the bike it'll keep me riding a good few years.
Use your finger to flick the finger lever back when you change down, no need for the thumb at all. I've always done it this way ever since I blew the horn a couple of times trying to use my thumb. It's probably quicker than using the thumb if your hand is properly on the grip.... I added a round plastic disc on the bottom off the bar electronic gear shift as on long twisty rides my thumb was aching, this fix works good as it places the activator closer to my thumb's reach. ...
Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a try when the FJ comes out from winter hibernation. The added section I mounted to the bottom has worked good for me but I have on occasion pressed the horn button by mistake!Use your finger to flick the finger lever back when you change down, no need for the thumb at all. I've always done it this way ever since I blew the horn a couple of times trying to use my thumb. It's probably quicker than using the thumb if your hand is properly on the grip.
Making a smooth getaway from a stop is easy: you just drag the rear brake a little and ease off as you get going. This also helps slow maneuvers in all bikes: slipping the clutch against the rear brake. The FJR AE auto clutch is terrific, as far as I'm concerned.A few days ago I bought a 2006 AE garage Queen. I've put only a few hundred miles on it. The bad of it, is starting out. In first gear at a stop, the electo clutch is disengaged, and you have to rev the motor to engage it, It's not that easy to get smooth, but I'm leaning how to do that, and there are some slipper revs involved. I also miss being able to glide with the clutch disengaged, like when you not sure if the next light is just about to go green. Because you can't glide, if you take your hand off the throttle you get some engine braking, not a big deal in 4th or 5th.
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