Is this a bad idea? Draining final drive cold?

[RaYzerman19]

It's not BS. I've BTDT in my younger days...... when you go ride, it will splooge out the vent. Do not spin the wheel when filling.

 

[art miller]

Seems as though we could make this simple. Hot or cold, allow it to drain for 30 minutes while you play with refilling the crank case oil. Prior to replacing the drain plug clean it well with solvent. Check for any metal particles and be sure to air dry the channel btwn the plug and the magnet. Fill it to the top of the threads as shown in the owners manual. Seems pretty damn straight forward to me!!! As a side note; Why would you turn the wheel when putting the fluid in the final drive? Where did that idea come from?

 

[LKLD]

One more for NEPRT.

 

[FJRay]

Seems as though we could make this simple. Hot or cold, allow it to drain for 30 minutes while you play with refilling the crank case oil. Prior to replacing the drain plug clean it well with solvent. Check for any metal particles and be sure to air dry the channel btwn the plug and the magnet. Fill it to the top of the threads as shown in the owners manual. Seems pretty damn straight forward to me!!! As a side note; Why would you turn the wheel when putting the fluid in the final drive? Where did that idea come from?

Because it's fun to watch the gears go around.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Seems as though we could make this simple. Hot or cold, allow it to drain for 30 minutes while you play with refilling the crank case oil. Prior to replacing the drain plug clean it well with solvent. Check for any metal particles and be sure to air dry the channel btwn the plug and the magnet. Fill it to the top of the threads as shown in the owners manual. Seems pretty damn straight forward to me!!! As a side note; Why would you turn the wheel when putting the fluid in the final drive? Where did that idea come from?

Because it's fun to watch the gears go around.

I like to put on a Captain's hat and sit on the concrete pretending the rear tire is a ship's steering wheel. I make boat motor noises while I am doing it.

Gheez, this one is most definitely bound for NEPRT. A shame too as the OP was serious and had a serious question. At least he got an answer that will make him happy.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Dude...Stop playing boat games with your bike and motorboat your wife instead. I guarantee you'll finally get off the couch for at least one night.

 

[CopB8]

Well, we might have gone off on a bit of a tangent but I did get what I needed so this thread served its purpose. Now, what's the best car tire for optimum performance and longevity?...............

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Well, we might have gone off on a bit of a tangent but I did get what I needed so this thread served its purpose. Now, what's the best car tire for optimum performance and longevity?...............

It is not about performance and longevity, it is about how the car tire affects the oil level.

Also, if I turn the wheel backwards will I be adding oil to the level?

I will concede that the very thick oil will cling to the gears as designed. I will concede that most of said gears are above the normal level and that any clinging oil will be removed from the "reservoir" level. I will also concede that the total amount of oil in the housing is very small and that even the relatively small amount clinging to the gears is a substantial percentage. I just don't see it taking 30 minutes to drain back down. Also, I have never had the urge to turn the tire without oil in the housing. So, while I see it could happen, I don't see this as being serious enough to have a pissing contest over. It is amusing though.

 

[dcarver]

Here's the dcarver solution.

Break out the oxygen-acetylene Rosebud to warm the pumpkin before fluid change.

No worries of oil gear entrapment.

No worries of incorrect oil levels.

No worries at all!

Brilliant I tell you, Brilliant!

 

[Fred W]

Now, what's the best car tire for optimum performance and longevity?...............

That depends on what kind of car you'll be putting it on.

(they call them car tires for a reason)

 

[petey]

Here's the dcarver solution.
Break out the oxygen-acetylene Rosebud to warm the pumpkin before fluid change.

No worries of oil gear entrapment.

No worries of incorrect oil levels.

No worries at all!

Brilliant I tell you, Brilliant!

decarver solution-brilliant?? Hey carver, don't do it. With your luck lately your sure to run into trouble. It's a PITA repainting the pumpkin cover, in case you bubble the paint...I tell you...changing the gear oil is getting way to complicated in this thread...just do it as suggested in the owners manual.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

FWIWWhen I am changing oils, I drain them and (After sitting time) I pour a small amount of fresh oil through to hopefully carry out some of the residue left behind.

It may help - don't know, just a routine I have stuck with.

I do the same thing.

Quick Question for you guys........side stand or center stand when changing the GEAR oil....or does it matter??

 

[Redfish Hunter]

I use the center stand simply because it is easier to access the plugs. My concrete has a pretty good slope to it and I park the bike pointed uphill so it still sits pretty level on the center stand.

Also the center stand allows me to turn the back wheel like a ship's steering wheel while making motorboat noises. You can't do that on the sidestand.

 

[Fred W]

Centerstand because it is already up there for the oil change.

You do have to be careful to tuck the oil drain pan in tight to keep from lubing the rear wheel and tire.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

Thanks guys......I can picture you doing that Red, lol

 

[worney]

There are 34 replies discussing how sticky gear oil is hot vs cold and no one mentioned how bad an idea it is to leave an engine running in gear...inside no less. If people do this could you please set up a couple of cameras and film it, one on the bike, one on the owner/mechanic's face, and one focused on the room on the house wall the bike is facing/aimed at.

Thank you, you can now continue your previous discussion.

Worney

P.s. I say it doesn't matter cold or hot for the small amount of fluid that you're dealing with, you're getting most everything out anyways.

 

[dcarver]

Here's the dcarver solution.
Break out the oxygen-acetylene Rosebud to warm the pumpkin before fluid change.

No worries of oil gear entrapment.

No worries of incorrect oil levels.

No worries at all!

Brilliant I tell you, Brilliant!

decarver solution-brilliant?? Hey carver, don't do it. With your luck lately your sure to run into trouble. It's a PITA repainting the pumpkin cover, in case you bubble the paint...I tell you...changing the gear oil is getting way to complicated in this thread...just do it as suggested in the owners manual.

Ah, heck Petey, I was jes joshing!

 

[psajunk]

I know a guy who insists on sealing his lips on the filler hole and blowing out the excess oil and debris. Over 250,000 miles with no issues, so it must work.

Happy Friday

mj

 

[MrZappo]

I know a guy who insists on sealing his lips on the filler hole and blowing out the excess oil and debris. Over 250,000 miles with no issues, so it must work.
Happy Friday

mj

What is his opinion on weather to do it hot or cold ? Maybe a short ride to get it warm ? Wouldn't want to chafe ...

 

[RaYzerman19]

P.s. I say it doesn't matter cold or hot for the small amount of fluid that you're dealing with, you're getting most everything out anyways.

In reality, this is the right answer. Leave it to drain a little longer maybe, but doesn't matter if you drain out that little bit extra. Fill it, ride it, recheck level later when it's warmer weather.