Left fairing removal advice

[propbuildervash]

Hello,

Getting ready to fix some issues on my 2010 that the PO created before I bought it.

I am trying to remove the "UPPER FRONT COWLING ASSY 1" however the that is on the black panel the power socket sits in just free spins. I've tried applying pressure under the screw head in order to try to allow the screw to catch and come out but it appears to be stuck on the threaded component that it normally sits in.

Since that really needs to be replaced anyways I started to unbolt it hoping to get it to separate from the headlight and lower fairing so I could remove both at once to assess what broke down I can order parts.

I cannot find a video or tutorial for getting this panel off. Can anyone please advise.

The parts I know I will have to replace are the

upper cowling assy a
Mirror (left)
Inner panel 3 (probably broke)
One rivet
One screw

 

[propbuildervash]

Nevermind, found the writeup in the FAQ section.

 

[propbuildervash]

So still stuck. I can't remove the back bolt on the left hand side of the inner fairing that surrounds the back charge pocket. Should I just use cutters and cut away and replace the plastic at this point? The bolt is just free spinning and the nut is stuck on the back, probably broken free from the fairing section.

 

[RossKean]

Got a photo? Not sure which fastener you're having trouble with.

 

[propbuildervash]

The black screw in the photo here, it's on the left side of the fairing. Towards the rider.

 

[RossKean]

Are you aware of this thread?
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/gen-ii-plastic-and-cowling-removal.116788/
I have never had a problem with that one and I don't remember how it is secured Clip-nut (spring-nut) perhaps?
Can you access it from underneath if you lift the tank? With the tank pivoted up on the (loosened) rear bolt, you may be able to get to it or at least drill a small access hole in the plastic that won't show with the tank in place.

Other possibility is to hold the screw in place with pliers and drill it out. Or maybe try to cut a slot in the head using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and using a flat head screwdriver to hold the screw from the side to keep it from spinning while you drill.

Good luck.

 

[BigOgre]

Slide a small flat screwdriver or similar blade under the screw head and gently pry upwards. While maintaining pressure there turn the screw out. If no luck try what Ross said about going underneath.

 

[RossKean]

With the front wheel turned to the right, I can reach the bottom of that screw putting my arm in just below the left headlight from the front of the bike. Could probably hold the clip nut in place by hand or needle nose pliers.

 

[propbuildervash]

I am going to try this tomorrow. I spent today putting the farkles on my 15 Honda 250L. It's all done and I'm happy with it now. I can start tearing apart the FJR again tomorrow.

 

[RossKean]

I am going to try this tomorrow. I spent today putting the farkles on my 15 Honda 250L. It's all done and I'm happy with it now. I can start tearing apart the FJR again tomorrow.

Any luck?

 

[propbuildervash]

Yes and No. There is a steel loop, the nut is supposed to be under the loop to secure it it's under the steel band. So it's not actually attached to anything as far as I can tell. I'm going to order in the new fairing prices tomorrow and once they arrive I will pull the entire fairing off per the instructions and ensure that bolt gets placed on the new fairing properly.

I borrowed a bore scope camera to get up inside the fairing to confirm this, there was no other way to see what was going on up there.

 

[Whooshka]

Did you try lifting the tank like Ross suggested? With the tank up you can probably reach up and hold the nut with pliers or something.

 

[propbuildervash]

Not yet. I'm going to get the parts on order first. The takedown of the fairing is more involved than I expected. I don't want to pull the bike apart for a couple more weeks. I still have a couple more ridable weeks before temps get to the point where I will start my long term winter repairs.