Less tension on the clutch lever... how can this be accomplished?

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Spridal

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Hi All,

It might just be me but the clutch lever on my 06 FJR seems like it has too much tension. It takes much more to depress the clutch lever than it did on any other bike I've ridden. I checked the tension on my Harleys and my son's bike earlier today and the tension on those are considerably less. Does anyone know if there's a solution out there?

 
Hi All,
It might just be me but the clutch lever on my 06 FJR seems like it has too much tension. It takes much more to depress the clutch lever than it did on any other bike I've ridden. I checked the tension on my Harleys and my son's bike earlier today and the tension on those are considerably less. Does anyone know if there's a solution out there?
More of this....https://www.wisconsinmotorcycling.com/phpBB/images/smiles/*******.gif

 
Hmmm... That's the first time I've heard of this type of problem. The only thing I can think of that's very basic is making sure the pivot on the levers are greased well. Other than that I don't know. Is it possible to try out the clutches of any other FJR's around your area? Maybe it's normal.

 
Hi All,

It might just be me but the clutch lever on my 06 FJR seems like it has too much tension. It takes much more to depress the clutch lever than it did on any other bike I've ridden. I checked the tension on my Harleys and my son's bike earlier today and the tension on those are considerably less. Does anyone know if there's a solution out there?
More of this....https://www.wisconsinmotorcycling.com/phpBB/images/smiles/*******.gif
Maybe too much of that is the problem ;)

 
You're sure it's the amount of force to pull the clutch? Because that can't be easily changed.

If it's a matter of where the clutch is positioned on the pull of the handle--that's adjustable. There's the 5 positions on the clutch on the little round disk at the base of the lever.

Personally, I think it's one of the easiest clutches I've ever used.

...moving thread to it's proper home.

 
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You're sure it's the amount of force to pull the clutch? Because that can't be easily changed.
If it's a matter of where the clutch is positioned on the pull of the handle--that's adjustable. There's the 5 positions on the clutch on the little round disk at the base of the lever.

Personally, I think it's one of the easiest clutches I've ever used.

...moving thread to it's proper home.
Yes it takes more force than I think it should. I have the 5 position disk dialed to the lowest setting.

 
Then if something isn't wrong with your bike and the pull is the same as other bikes....you'd probably have to come up with something nobody else has ever tried, like tearing apart and modifying the master or slave cylinder.

 
I recently added the 2nd gen Suzuki handguards I had sitting around for several months and greased the pivot points of the clutch and front brake levers. It made pull in much smoother and easier than I ever would have imagined.

This on a 2005 you'd expect to have some lube still left. Might want to give it a try first, only takes a few seconds to remove the pivot bolt.

Also found the little rubber boot on the clutch side master bunched up and damaged . It was binding a bit until I reset it. Waiting for a replacement from the dealer, temporarily repaired the tear with black RTV.

 
This is probably obvious, but if you set tha adjustment on the lever to bring the lever in close to the grip and then operate the lever from as close to the end as possible you will get more leverage. I wonder if you could slide the clutch lever assmbly over on the bars toward the center a bit so you fingers naturally grab the lever closer to the end.

Personally, I have been happy with the clutch on my '05. I did note some wear on the pivot bolts when I removed them to install hand guards so I make sure to lube them periodically.

 
The bigger the bike, the bigger the clutch, the heavier the springs, the harder the pull.

If anything people change out their clutch springs to tighter units to reduce slippage.

Greasing the pivot is about all you can do and Yamaha seems to chintz on the grease.

 
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I'm pretty sure the numbered adjuster is for handle position only, not a tension mechanism. Maybe I mis-read that earlier in the thread.

 
I'm pretty sure the numbered adjuster is for handle position only, not a tension mechanism. Maybe I mis-read that earlier in the thread.
Yep, you are right. The numbered knob only serves to change the distance between the lever and the grip.

 
To make it easier, you can pull the lever near the end far from the pivot. This would increase your mechanical advantage. The pull force is reduced but you have farther to pull. Maybe you can pull the lever with your pinky.

The '06 clutch lever requires more force because the slave cylinder has a reduced diameter. The mechanical advantage of the master cylinder over the slave cylinder has been reduced.

 
The 03-05 have great clutches that are easy to engage.

The 06 manual clutch is made hard by Yamaha, as a ploy to get people to buy the auto-clutch model.

It's a conspiracy. :ph34r:

 
I recently added the 2nd gen Suzuki handguards I had sitting around for several months and greased the pivot points of the clutch and front brake levers. It made pull in much smoother and easier than I ever would have imagined. This on a 2005 you'd expect to have some lube still left. Might want to give it a try first, only takes a few seconds to remove the pivot bolt.

Also found the little rubber boot on the clutch side master bunched up and damaged . It was binding a bit until I reset it. Waiting for a replacement from the dealer, temporarily repaired the tear with black RTV.
That was the ticket! I greased the pivot points and that took care of the problem after a few pulls of the lever. Thanks!!!! :clapping:

 
Hmmm... That's the first time I've heard of this type of problem. The only thing I can think of that's very basic is making sure the pivot on the levers are greased well. Other than that I don't know. Is it possible to try out the clutches of any other FJR's around your area? Maybe it's normal.
Mine is also stiffer than the one on my Harley... even before I put on the clutch cam... really sucks in stop and go traffic... especially combined with the "tennis elbow" I ended up with ...

Mary

You're sure it's the amount of force to pull the clutch? Because that can't be easily changed.

If it's a matter of where the clutch is positioned on the pull of the handle--that's adjustable. There's the 5 positions on the clutch on the little round disk at the base of the lever.

Personally, I think it's one of the easiest clutches I've ever used.

...moving thread to it's proper home.
Yes it takes more force than I think it should. I have the 5 position disk dialed to the lowest setting.

I think it's hard to pull as well, harder than my Harley...

It's a hydralic clutch, I also have a hydralic clutch on my Suzuki Bandit, which is very easy to pull... I normally only use two fingers....

and it's not the reach of the lever, I adjusted that... or the position... I made sure the levers are level with the bars.

I think part of the problem is the angle my wrists due to the type of bars on the FJR.

That angle ,and also having to lean on the grips, is giving me tennis elbow... although to be fair, that was brought on by 5 straight days of riding wearing a jacket that was cutting into the front of my shoulder and making my hand extremely numb...

I've ridden bikes with clutches so stiff I had blisters on my fingers after only one day of riding... so

I'm going to adjust the bars and see if that changes anything.

good luck, if you figure out anything, please let me know.

Mary

I recently added the 2nd gen Suzuki handguards I had sitting around for several months and greased the pivot points of the clutch and front brake levers. It made pull in much smoother and easier than I ever would have imagined.

This on a 2005 you'd expect to have some lube still left. Might want to give it a try first, only takes a few seconds to remove the pivot bolt.

Also found the little rubber boot on the clutch side master bunched up and damaged . It was binding a bit until I reset it. Waiting for a replacement from the dealer, temporarily repaired the tear with black RTV.
That was the ticket! I greased the pivot points and that took care of the problem after a few pulls of the lever. Thanks!!!! :clapping:

Ok, I'll try that tomorrow....

Mary

 
This is probably obvious, but if you set tha adjustment on the lever to bring the lever in close to the grip and then operate the lever from as close to the end as possible you will get more leverage. I wonder if you could slide the clutch lever assmbly over on the bars toward the center a bit so you fingers naturally grab the lever closer to the end.
Personally, I have been happy with the clutch on my '05. I did note some wear on the pivot bolts when I removed them to install hand guards so I make sure to lube them periodically.
I just got done removing and lubing the pivot bolts with a little white grease and was amazed at the difference. While I was at it, I lubed the front brake pivot, rear brake pivot points, and gear shift lever points. A little maintenance goes a long ways. Many prior model FJR's had piss poor (if not non-existant) lubrication of many components (side stand, center stand, rear suspension pivot points, hand lever pivot points, drive shaft splines). Check out these locations and get nice and cozy with your bike. You've got a long life together.

 
Clutch lever on my 06 has always been a stiff pull. Today I took the pivot bolt out and found it was coated with a sticky/tacky substance(thread lock?). I hosed the bolt off with brake clean, wiped it down real good to make sure I got it clean and lubed it up with some all purpose marine lube I had laying around, put the bolt back in the hole, a lttle lock tight on the end of the threads, bolted it back together, and now have an easy pull clutch lever.

Wonder how many sticky bolts yamaha installed? :blink:

 
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I dont think greasing that pivot point will help the majority of us. If the pivot point was the problem, It should help us with control when engaging the clutch (and hindering pulling the clutch in). Mine is difficult in both directions (and i think thats what most of the complaints are about). Unless you talking about a different pivot (post pics please), Lubing that spot may make things smoother, but not easier.

This is just a negative with this model. They made changes to the slave/master cylinder configuration, and your left hand is just going to pay the price. This wwill wear you down in traffic and is just flat out annoying when combined with that tight throttle cable and surging.

I was expecting better from yamaha.

Mary, see if your having this problem in both engagment and disengagement. If its in both directions, welcome to the frankenstein forearm club.

GreyGoose

 
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